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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 25 Dec 2009, 10:01 am
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Default Are you an expert mechanic or an expert on Honda Accords?

Please offer any advice you may have regarding this problem.































We (my wife and I) own a 92 Honda Accord. It has been having this strange intermittent problem for about a week or two. We have taken the car to the mechanic twice, and the car didn't "act up" when they had it. So, the mechanic is perplexed. He is a good mechanic, so it's not his fault. It just so happens that the car has only stalled out when I have been driving it.































The car is idling just fine. It idles right around 850-900 rpm. So it isn't anything having to do with the idle.































Let me describe the symptoms- as I was driving down the road the other day, the car just "conked out" on me. Right as I was driving, the speedometer and tach went to zero. The engine shut off. I had to coast to a stop and pull on the side of the road. I then tried to start the car again. It would not start when I turned the key. So I gently tapped on the gas WHILE I turned the ignition key, and it came back to life. That is peculiar, because as you know, this car has fuel injection. The problem appears to be related somehow to either the engine computer or the electrical system, because it has tried to stall out a few other times, and when that happened, some of the lights on the dash come on, like the ABS light, the SRS light, etc etc. And if it is cold in the morning, sometimes the car won't start when turning the key. But again, if I turn the key and tap the gas, she starts up.































The mechanic cleaned the throttle body for me. It is not the ignition coil causing this problem, because the car would not run at all if the coil were bad. The plug wires are brand new. Less than a year ago, this same mechanic did a major tune-up on the Honda for me- new timing belt, new plugs, new wires, new oil pump, etc. It has been running well for us until a week or so ago, when this strange problem started happening. I do not believe it is the battery terminals, either- although that is a slight possibility. They appear to be fine.































Any ideas on what the problem is?
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Old 25 Dec 2009, 10:16 am
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replace the batt
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 25 Dec 2009, 10:31 am
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ignition module / exciter































just like the above components...































Don't go thinking a coil wont have an intermittant short when it gets hot.































Sounds like any of those, or a bad conection.































Wiggle various wires while running to see if maybe it is just a bad connection.















Also could be the fuel pump just beginning to go out, and or the relay
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Old 25 Dec 2009, 10:46 am
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sorry is a sign of coil bad and yes if its bad it wil run til it gets hot then die til it cools off again















that or water in fuel system more likey just need to add a fuel treatment to clean fuel system one drop of water wil do that and a bad coil will do it as well coil over heats wil shut off til it cools down and then it restarts it will check fine til it dies all together































stalling out lack of fuel such as water or trash so try a fuel treatment might fix it















more so in winter months this happens and running tank low on fuel give tank room to sweat and produces water no code scanner wil see either one
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Old 25 Dec 2009, 11:01 am
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Faulty fuel injectors or the battery/ecu is getting a short would be my guess.
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Old 25 Dec 2009, 11:16 am
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Many things can cause this condition, A faulty coil can do this when they get hot they stop working. Wrong spark plugs can do it too. A loose ground connector for the computer at the thermostat housing can do this. Any loose or soft set connection at wire harness. A faulty igniter unit inside the distributor assy can do it too. The ignition switch on that model likes to go bad too and it will do something like this. Try to make notes on this condition like; it's present after 30 miles of driving or 30 min, or after a bump or pot holes on the road and stuff like that. This will help a lot during diagnostic. Your tech can also move and pull a little on the wire harness with the engine running to see if there is any changes. With a case like this I like to hook some test lights and gauges to different parts of the engine while the engine is running and wait for that moment and see what goes out, fuel pressure or power at the coil or power at the injectors ect ect .. Good luck and i hope it helps.
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Old 25 Dec 2009, 11:31 am
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I have had three Honda Accords. I love them!















This happened to me too on a blind curve, making a left turn onto a very busy highway! It was my battery! My battery had so much corrosion, it just stopped dead in the middle of the street. I turned it off, put it in park and it started right up, thank God! Try a 'new' , good quality battery and replace the terminals.
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Old 25 Dec 2009, 11:46 am
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A plugged up Catalytic converter will cause really obscene and un timely break downs.Also the OEM Muffler gets satureated with moisture inside and a drag on the system.Get under your Hondacar and try the "Tap" test on the exhaust metal parts.Does your muffler or Cat make a dull thunking sound?Check exhaust system.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 25 Dec 2009, 12:01 pm
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You are correct in that tapping the gas just moves the butterfly valve in the throttle body and has no effect on starting the car. the only time it has an effect is if you hold the accelerator pedal on the floor and that will cause the wide open throttle contacts in the TPS to close and send a signal to put the car into "clear flood" mode so that you can start a flooded car. and yes, fuel injected cars will flood out. but that's another story and not your problem.































I have a very strong feeling that your problem is with the ignition switch that is on the back of the key cylinder that you put the ignition key into. The switch has a series of electrical contacts inside it that respond to the key being turned in the different positions. I know honda had a recall on the late 1990 models to replace that switch for intermittent stalling at highway speeds. your car was not involved in the recall but the symptoms match exactly. as for the no start cold, it could be that the contacts are contracting and not making a complete electrical circuit.































its a guess, but its possible that the harness for the ignition switch is being moved by the action of moving the accelerator pedal and pulling on the harness may put the contacts in the ignition switch in contact to make the electrical circuit to start the car.































I've seen this condition on several models that were not in the recall and several of them of your vintage. Its easy enough to confirm. you can remove the ignition switch from the back of the ignition cylinder and take the plastic cover off the switch. if you see burning around the contacts then you know that's your problem.































As I said, I really think your problem is with the ignition switch.































hope that helps
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Old 25 Dec 2009, 12:16 pm
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I would check the coils and/or the ignition box that runs the electrical. This sounds like the same thing that my Mazda did years ago, and it never did it for the dealer until I made him have one of his people drive it home, The car died about a mile from the dealer!
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