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Old 10 Oct 2009, 03:55 pm
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Default Complicate "no fuel" condition

Default I need some brains to help on probably wiring problem
Hi all,
I have an 87 Accord LXI. The car died while I was driving. I found the problem to be fuel related. However, the fuel pump is still working because when I jumped the ignition to fuel pump, fuel rushed out like a pint/5sec or so(the only test I ever get fuel). The ECU is still working cause my friend's 88 LXI, not quite the same ECU, started right away when I tried my ECU on his car.The main relay is also still working cause when I tested the main relay(the same procedure as the one provided here), all contacts clicked and all continuity were available. I even tried replacing the relay with a new one to eliminate the relay problem completely.
When the relay(or any relay) is connected to its harness though, it's not clicking. So I suspected that the problem was in the harness. I then tested the harness' pins for continuity using the information from here, http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...ion/index.html . The following continuity test were done ; 1st test, between pin1(battery) and pin2(Ground). 2nd test, between pin5(Ignition) and pin2,
3rd test,between pin4(starter switch) and pin2, and 4th test, jumping pin5 to pin7(fuel pump). At the beginning all test results were normal except for the continuity between ignition(pin#5) and the ground(pin#2) that showed minus tiny small voltage. Not knowing the ground was routed through ECU, I did the following;

I made a set of 5 wires with one end female and the other male, then I use them to connect between the harness and the relay for #1, #3, #4, #7, and #8. However, for the ground, I didn't ground it to the relay harness, but to the car's body, I connected one end to the relay(#2) and the other end to the car's body and for the ignition, I routed the a wire directly from the battery to a toggle switch and from the switch to ignition on the relay(#5). Now I could get fuel when I connected to the relay using this ignition (instead of the ignition from the harness) and a lot of fuel when I turned the key to "start"(the fuel feeding line was disconnected from the filter for this observation).
After reconnecting the fuel line, I turned the switch on and started the engine and it was running and was able to idle until I pressed gas then the engine stopped. That left me with this problem to solve which lead me to further discover the conditions below;

The relay harness works normally as long as I disconnect the ECU harness, but when ECU harness stay connected, it's acting weirder than before (before I started the engine and idled it).

When I disconnected the ECU harness, the relay harness test showed perfect result(as you supposed to get when a car is normal), but when ECU was connected, I got weird results and that was the reason why the relay was not activated(no clicking sound). There are 3 harness connected to the ECU, but only the dis/connection of the middle one make the differences. I hope I didn't confuse anyone, the harness being tested is the relay harness, but the harness that's (seems to) causing the problem(to the relay harness) is the ECU harness.

Here' s the results for the 4 key positions(off, 1,2, and start)
(Note: little low on the battery voltage, but it doesn't take much to pump the fuel)

A. ECU (middle) harness was NOT connected.

1st test Pin1(to Battery) & pin2(always ground through ECU)
11V, 11V, 11V, 9V

2nd test, pin5(to Ignition)& pin2
0v, 10v, 11v, 9v

3rd test, pin4(to starter switch) & pin2
0v, 0v, 0v, 6v

4th test, jump pin5 to pin7(fuel pump)
fuel rushed out

So far so good, but then


B. With ECU (middle) harness connected.
1st test Pin1(to Battery) & pin2(always ground through ECU)
10V, 10V, 0V, 0V

2nd test, pin5(to Ignition)& pin2
All no continuity 0v, 0v, 0v, 0v

3rd test, pin4(to starter switch) & pin2
-0.4v, -0.4v, -10v, 0v

4th test, jump pin5 to pin7(fuel pump)
fuel rushed out

So my question is has anyone seen this problem? Do you happen to know what are the middle harness' wires connecting to the ECU?
I thought to fix this problem I might have to replace the whole set of under-dash wires, any suggestion?

Some info that might be helpful, I just replaced the head gasket on the car. At the beginning, I saw something by the cooling fan making sparks a few times, but I needed the car so I drove it anyway. I drove it about 100 miles since then. And a few days, about 40 miles, right before the car died, I had to replace the alternator.

Thank you in advance
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