TIMING BELT IS NOT BROKEN/RIPPED. If timing belt did rip or break, you would hear you pistons beat the crap out of your valves when you would be cranking the motor, because there's always a few valves open and when the piston comes up, timing belt will not spin the cam so that the spring can close that valve, noobs. Go back to honda-tech or get a rope and find a tall tree.The only thing we know that does work right now is the starter. It could be anything from blown ecu fuse to bad distributor, to a shorted/ripped wire for crankshaft sensor.Quick DIY checks.ECU - turn key on 2, if check engine lights doesn't go off in a couple of seconds you most likely have a burnt fuse for the ecu. If the light does go off in a couple of seconds than ECU is functional.Fuel pump - have some one turn the key on 2, while you listen to the fuel rail under the hood. If you can hear a little hissing sound of fuel flowing inside of it, the fuel pump works. If not then check main relay. Fuel pump will not work if ecu is not functional.Spark - Either buy a cheap spark plug tesert, or take one of the spark plugs out of the motor, put the spark plug wire onto it and touch the chassis or a groung bolt somewhere with the tip of the spark plug. DO NOT TOUCH THE SPARK PLUG WITH YOUR BARE HANDS, put gloves on or hold it by the spark plug wire because it's rubber. Have a friend try to crank the motor to see if you have spark. Again, you'll get no spark if ecu is not functional, if ecu is functional then you havea distributor problem.Compression - if ECU is fine, you have spark, and fuel at the fuel rail, check the compression of the motor with a compression tester.Timing belt, if it skipped a tooth, the spark will still be there, but at the wrong time. That's the whole point of the timing belt is to time piston/valve/spark correctly for the motor to run. Take it to a mechanic if you don't feel comfortable enough to check it yourself. Also, buy yourself a Helms Manual for you year/make/model car.Also, buy a cheap circuit tester, turn the key on 2, put the alligator clip onto a ground/chassis bolt and touch the two sides of each fuse while it's in the fuse box. If one side of the fuse lights up the tester and the other doesn't then your fuse is burnt. Check every fuse possible, or you can just pull every fuse out and visually inspect it. Make sure to install all the fuses back into the same place for amperage settings.
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