Honda Car Forum

i dont even know where the mount is but if someone would tell me what needs to be done i know i can get it done

annette, you need to buy some literature, like a Haynes manual to read. You can read all you want about what these guys say on this forum and a lot of times they answer questions to get to the next step. You need help. Another place to get information is the alldata.com. The information costs, but it lays out logical steps to do jobs. It tells you tons of stuff about your vehicle. I can take you through some steps. The first motor mount on my villager took about a half day. because I laid out all the procedures. took all the precautions. The last one took 15min, because all the those procedures that I learned were still in my head. So if its a diy, get some book learning first, familiarize yourself with the car.

there is two different mounts that go bad on this car. one is in the front of the car and one is mounted on top of the steering rack crossmember. the easiest by far is the front one, but both require proper placement of a floor jack to lift the engine. you will need to find out which one is bad. hope this helps a little

first go to the shop where you want to buy the mounts. if you go to auto zone it will be easier. ask them if they can show you what they look like. and ask them the general area where it will be. the go and try to find them. they are real easy to find but one might be under the air box and another under the cruise controll fluid dealy. another under your intake and another under the one thats under the cruise controll thats near the oil pan. i did all this on my 99 civic. i dont know if there all in the right spot. you need to jack up the motor using a floor jack not all the way just as to take the weight of the motor off the chassis. then remove any parts you need to like the cruise control fluid holder the air box your front tires ect. if you know where they are start taking them off. i suggest doing to lower ones first. once you take it off if the rubber is all disintigrated and parts are falling off then its bad. either way you should replace all of them at the same time. all you do to replace them is take off the nut slide them off the bolt and put the new one on. or for the anchor just unbolt it from the motor and the chassis. it looks hard, no one wants to do it, but after you do it and you figure it out its real simple. and this is coming from a kid that did it by himself when he was 16 so if i can do it so can you. i suggest you get motor mount inserts also they prolong the life and you will lay down more torque. those are pretty simple to figure out also. you just slip each side into the mount and zip tie it on good luck you can figure it out.

As Bob says in the earlier post, there are two different mounts and each can fail/wear out. A thorough visual inspection will tell you which one is bad. The mount near the radiator, a "dogbone" style (OEM is appx. $75.00), goes bad when the rubber deteriorates and the engine can "rock" when shifted in and out of gear.The rear mount fails less often but is more of a PITA: It's expensive (part is appx. $250) and a little more work to replace. Usually the rubber "bellows" deteriorates and the easiest way to replace it is to remove the drivers' side axle. Not terribly difficult for an experienced mechanic, though. I removed the left-front axle in order to replace it. It took me about 45 min. to do everything. (I used air tools and had access to a lift.) The front mount can easily be removed without putting the car on a lift. Summary: Perform a visual inspection then with the help of an observer, (with the engine running and the brakes applied) put the car in "drive" and observe how the motor "rocks"; then put the car in "reverse" and observe again. I replaced the dogbone on my 1991 Accord twice and the rear motor mount once (over 250,000 miles). I'm still driving it today! Yes, the parts are expensive, but so is the depreciation when you buy a new car! Good luck! My car idles so smoothly, you can't tell if the engine is "on" at a stop light.