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...the floor some of the answers have said there is air in the lines how do i properly bled the brakes, and how much brake fluid do i let out I have no money so i have to do this with my girlfriend,
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Sounds like you have a leak in the lines somewhere.First you have to find the leak and repair it. THEN bleed the system.Common places for leaks are:1.) At the master cylinder itself (the metal part underneath where you put the brake fluid in...NOT the little one-that's for the clutch. The BIG one. Right on the firewall. Look for brake fluid at fittings where they attach to the master cylinder.Down the lines a bit further at the proportioning valve. (Again, look for wet spots.)Anywhere along the lines where there is a hose or the tee fitting at the rear axle. (same deal)The rear wheel cylinders if you have drum (Brake shoes inside a cast iron drum) brakes. (The leaking fluid will be visible from BEHIND the wheel on the brake backing plate.)If air is getting IN-Fluid is leaking out. Fix the leak, then bleed the brakes.To bleed a brake, have someone sit in the driver's seat and ready to pump the pedal.On each hydraulic cylinder or caliper there is a bleeder screw (small brass fitting with a hole in the middle). Put the correct size wrench on that and have your helper pump up the beake pedal slowly until at least some pressure is felt at the pedal-then have your helper hold the pedal down.(Pump-pump-pump-HOLDING)When your helper yells "Holding" loosen that bleeder screw and keep yer face out of the way as brake fluid and air will spit out the hole. Have your helper follow the pedal to the floor with their foot. and hold it there until you have closed the bleeder screw again. Then they can release the pedal.Have your helper pump up the brakes again and repeat the above procedure and you just keep opening that bleeder screw until nothing but a steady stream of brake fluid comes out. When this happens-close the screw and move to the next wheel.Most folks start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (right rear) and work their way back to the closest (left front).Make sure to check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir frequently so it doesn't get to low and suck in air or you'll have to start all over again.The procedure is relatively simple-just a pain in the butt.You're done when the pedal is firm again with minimal free travel.
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It could be air in the lines or your master cylinder could still be bad,it uses rubber seals in it's construction and could possibly not pumping fluid thru the lines.As far as bleeding the brakes I made a bleeder pot,consisting of a large clear container with a lid (with small hole in it)and a long piece of rubber line.Fill the container 3/4 full if brake fluid,push the rubber line down into the container(near bottom) then loosen the bleeder screw on the brake caliper or wheel cylinder push the other end of the rubber line down on it,and gently pump the brakes three or four times and release.Then tighten the bleeder screw.Do this to all four wheels.The bleeder pot allows you to bleed the brakes by yourself.
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On a 92 Honda I would think that it was most likely the master cylinder. It most likely has an internal leak that is caused by a worn out seal. Other things that can cause this are a bad brake hose that expands when you depress the master cylinder by way of the brake pedal. another problem but less likely because you said that the fluid level is up is a bad piston in a brake caliper or a bad wheel cylinder in the back brake assembly. Also a bad power booster can cause a spongy brake pedal. All of these things could cause the problem that you are having which is not necessarily air in the lines but lack of hydraulic pressure.
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Sounds like you have air in you lines.Bleed your brakes first... It is the cheapest way to eliminate a possible cause.. Basically there are only a few thing in the brake system that can cause this problem...Master Cylinder, Booster, Hard Lines, Soft lines and Calipers...A leak in any one of these could cause the problem... But typically a leak would lead to LOW FLUID LEVELS in the tank... You said that the level was fine... Fluid is thicker than air so it is possible that a seal is worn enough to allow air in to the system and not allow fluid to leak. Bleed the system first and see if that takes care of the problem then go from there... Each caliper has an Air bleeder valve located on it... You will need to get one of those brake bleeder kits from the local auto shop... This way you can do it by yourself... It is very simple and even comes with bleeding instructions... Basically you remove the rubber cover connect the smakk hose and container to the valve and loosen the valve then Pump your breaks a few times... It does help to have someone else helping you as one person can watch the fluid level and bleeder valve while the other one pumps the break..You want to make sure the fluid level doesn't drop below the min mark in the resivor.. You want to pump the brake until a solid stream of fluid comes out first few pumps may have bubbles in it. Bubbles are BADLock it down once you see the solid stream Once that is done complete the same for all your brake calipers... Make sure you keep your eye on the fluid level in the tank... if it falls below the mark you risk putting more air in the lines and have to run through this all over again. The brakebleeder kit is not 100% necessary, but it does make it less messy and give you the option to do it bay yourself if you have to...
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