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I'm hoping that Sam2000pres's solution fits my situation.
Same problem: too many bulbs to replace, then both lamps go out on—of course—a rainy highway, at the very moment I was passing a tractor trailer. The guy started flashing his lights at me, but because his lights were lighting the road ahead of me, I didn't clue in to what was going on. A little further down the road I figured it out. Does anybody have any tips on locating and cleaning the connector that Sam described? Where is it, what tools will I need, what do I need to watch out for? Any tips (or, ideally, a photo) would be much appreciated. Buzz |
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Buzz,
Switch is easy to get to. Remove screws under steering column; get plastic cover off of bottom and top carefully by prying it apart (snaps together). Good idea to pull the ground strap on battery, but be sure that you have your CD player security code first, as it will not work until re-imputed when power is restored to system...I got away without this step, but remember the system is still powered with key off... White plastic plug is on top of dimmer switch assembly. Pull it out by depressing tabs and take a look. Any white/grey residue on what should be shinny metal pins and connectors is the issue. Switch comes out by prying up plastic around tabs after removing single screw, and pulling out. Really easy. I used a jeweler’s fine screwdriver to scrape off residue from pins and plugs. Do a good job, get a magnifying glass to check your work if needed. Some acetone or alcohol to clean up afterwards, toothbrush works well. Don’t bend the pins too much, make sure all are straight and aligned when done. Let dry, plug back together and test. If you found plug corrosion this should take care of it. NO corrosion or burnt marks, keep looking... TK |
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I have the same problem on two CRV's, one is a 2002 and the other a 2004. I have burned out headlights on either side on both vehicles every 4 to 6 months. However, I find that the least expensive OEM type 9003 bulbs last the longest.
![]() There's no evidence of corosion or water getting into the connector. I use electrical silicon grease on the connector each time I change a lamp and I',m careful not to touch the glass part of the lamp assembly. It's always the low beam that fails and it happens to either side at random. I had the electrical system in both cars checked by the dealer and they say there's no problem; sounds familar based on comments from other posts. I've come to the conclusion that here in the NY metro area it's a common problem with all vehicles talking to my co-workers. In recent years, it's a State law (in NY & NJ) that if the wipers are on, your headlights have to be on, day or night. Since the headlights get more than normal use before the headlight law was passed this early burnout is to be expected. I think that there are more than one issue here in play. Failures every 4 to six months, which is what I experience, is to be expected because we have so many rain days in NJ. In fact we had a sixty year record rainfall this past year for the number of rainfall days. Tungsram rates their OEM lamps at 650 hours. Last June 2009 it rained almost every day for a month. Depending on driving habits, this lamp life is to be expected. Doing a search on the web, I found that some have reported lamp probelms with other vendors that make replacement lamps that last as few as 100 hours!. The best and longest lasting are the OEM, least expnesive lamps made by Tungsram made in Hungary. The Blue tinted brighter lamps equiv to the 9003, costing four times as much, last 1/4th as long. Burn outs every few weeks are another problem as mentioned by others, including switch and relay issues. All just my own opinion. Signed: Engineer at the electric company Last edited by Old Jersey Driver; 26 Nov 2009 at 11:44 am. |
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thank you all for your posts... I have a 2005 Honda CRV and I have replaced the headlight bulbs a few times. I have a Daylight Running Light switch installed so my headlights are on day and night. I recently attempted to replace a bulb and I encountered a problem. Both bulbs I purchased from Auto Zone did not work. I thought I had a more serious problem so I went to the dealer. They replaced the bulb (dealer stock part) and it worked just fine. The service guy told me that bulbs from auto part stores can be faulty and that I should alway replace it with a Genuine Honda Part. The bulbs from Honda are $15 each, twice the cost of Auto Zone. I guess worth it given the inconvenience. I have an extra one on hand now... They found no problem with my vehicle.
Good luck! Thanks for the posts once again,,,
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Good point, I was aware of this and was very careful when removing it from the package and installing it. The bulbs operate at high temp and oil from your skin can transfer to the bulb causing the temp to increase more causing the bulb to fail. I still think it is strange that both repacement bulbs did not work.
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I feel the Honda Dealer gave you a line of BS. If aftermarket lamps were defective the companies that supply them to auto part stores and Honda would go out of business. I'm having no problem on my Honda motorcycle or my Ford truck, using the same brand headlights. Only on the 2005 Honda CRV is having a problem with headlights.
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Here is my headlight headache. The left headlight is OK. The turn signal works both sides till I turn on the headlights. Then the right one does not work. that is a Honda safety feature. Non working turn signal on full lamps is to warn the owner there is a burned out head lamp. The right headlight will not burn. The bulb is good. Checked with an Ohm meter and attached the battery charger to it and it lights up. An H1 Silverstar bulb is BRIGHT. Especially right in front of you. The wiring harness that plugs into the adapter that the H1 bulb sits in is getting voltage with the motor running and the headlights are on. The right turn signal works with no lights on. Also works with just the 'parking lights'. When the headlights are turned on, it goes out and the right turn signal glows on the dash. It does not look like the turn signal bulb is a multi filament. If it was then maybe it is the problem and not the headlight. I've checked the adapter the H1 bulb connects to and there is no short. Just a little confused. leaned the sockets. Made sure the connections at the bulb is making contact. Changed out the turn signal bulb this morning (5:30 am) No change yet. Still confused here.
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--- dude did you check the power switch in the middle? if not try to specify the right panel into the same source of the power switch. then try to convert it from the next slide of the panel. hope this can help dude.
Last edited by princecasanova; 30 Sep 2010 at 04:14 am. |
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