Electrical Problem 88 Accord
I had a series of opens/closes where the battery/alternator wire connects at the 40Amp fuse for the IG(A). Now, the fuse did not blow, but the opening/closing effect occured while I was driving down the road and the car suddenly died. I was able to secure the the wire for a short period and turn the car over again, but soon after I let go of the fuse and wire (new wiring w/ bad solder job) the whole thing went to crap. I got a tow and took the car home for the night. Now, for a brief history of what I have done to the car in the past and what I looked into already given the new symptoms.
Electrical History- Replaced a bad alternator and battery at the same time. Suspected a bad charging system as well so I replaced the charging system as directed with the wiring diagram for the car. Everything was flawless except for a crappy soldering job which rendered the 40A fuse going into the IG(A) to open and close very fast, thus sparking and such with the negative terminal connected at the time. I immediately suspected something past the fuse had blown not taking the fuse with it, and my first suspect was the ignition switch. I took the switch apart, cleaned off some black here and there from 19 years of use, but apart from that the ignition switch was working just fine. Both now and right after the initial "blowing" of that fuse area, when I turn the key over to accessories I get nothing, when I turn it to On I get the vent blower, but no lights for the vent, etc, just the fan speeds work from low-high. My lights and everything not connected to the ignition switch work properly. The only thing that works with the ignition switch in any position besides off is the vent. Obviously the starter won't turn over, no dash lights work to include display clock, gauges, vent lights. The windows will not roll down, the sunroof won't open, so basically nothing besides the lights and door locks work with exception of the vent coming off the ignition switch.
My question is, what would sparking at that fuse do when it doesn't blow the fuse, the ignition switch seems to function properly and the only thing that turns on is the vent fan? from looking at my wiring diagram, the only two splits I see from my Ig Switch is the Bl/Y one going to dash fuse #1 leading to the voltage regulator which is not blown and the Ignition Coil and then there's the starter Bl/W cable which goes to the starter solenoid. Neither the Ignition Coil nor starter are working, so should I still be looking at the ignition switch or past it at the starter and ignition coil now? To the best of my knowledge the Digital Meter Control Unit, Fuel Cut-Off Relay, Tachometer, and Cruise Control Unit all come off a Bu wire from the ignition coil. There is nothing in the wiring diagram describing where the vent or power windows come from, but from the looks of it, they aren't the most of my worries.
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