Honda Car Forum

which are the best types and models of honda accords

A Honda Accord is the model. There is no other H. A. model. There are different Hondas like the Civic etc..

no it is not a good racing car. it is a street car. not a track car. if you are planning to race your car on the highway, well that is very dangerous, as well as illegal, and you probably already know that hondas are very popular for that. personally, i prefer civics. there may be some versions of hondas specifically made for racetrack racing, but otherwise that is not the original intent of the car.

there is only one type of a honda accord and they suck for racing because its a 4 banger.

the honda accord type r is the best ever accord, its a 2.2 litre v-tec engine which revs all the way to 9500rpm and produces 209bhp as standard! does 0-60 mph in about 7secs and does 140mph with ease so yes it is a very good racing car not sure if its available in the u.s though so if thats the case then unlucky!

Yes and no actually. The Accord platform family has span many offspring until now, and there's actually 2 distinct Accord available today. One Accord in the USA is widely known as the phat (fat) Accord, the bulky, huge family sedan. This type is not meant for anything than to haul people/family from point A to point B. However there is the second Accord, which is the Accord Euro or Acura TSX as it is known in the USA. Now this type of Accord is more fun to drive and actually can become a good car to race because it is slimmer, leaner and having considerably less weight.Both the phat Accord and Accord Euro shares the same chassis, they both use the same suspension and both uses the same engine of Honda's K series. The suspension geometry of both cars which uses double wishbone front and back allows the wheel to maintain its movement separate from the suspension. This is because the camber control can be achieved to near perfect (can be changed indefinitely) to the drivers or the car characteristic.The Accord Euro/Acura TSX has been fielded quite successfully in many racing endeavor such as FIA WTCC (Europe), and Speed World Challenge (USA). Especially in the Speed World Challenge, Acura TSXs dominate in the past years, but it seems that Mazda has step up quite admirably in the last opening race.So... Is Honda Accord a good racing car? Yes the slim variant (Accord Euro/Acura TSX), but the phat Accord is not so bad either. Because the phat Accord using the same suspension as the slim variant, then it also performs admirably amongst its competitors. Many online automotive magazines applaud its handling characteristic, especially caranddriver which gives the car best family sedan for its handling and other driving dynamics. By the way, the Accord is good only for touring class racing, not hardcore racing style. The weight, mass, and overall size restrict the car to compete cars which are in the same category. The Front Wheel drive configuration also restrict the car to its maximum potential because the weight transfer in cornering will be pushed to the front creating a massive understeer effect in high speed.In Japan, Honda unleashed an Accord Euro R. This is the type R variant of the slim Accord, power coming from 2000cc@220ps (218bhp). However I debate this car as slower because of its 2000cc engine, the Acura TSX however with a 2400cc engine producing 200bhp have more torque and lower redline with larger displacement.Hope this helps.































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Of course not. Its a family car. Its made to cruise around in comfort with a couple of kids in the back and getting good mileage.

Honda accord is a good tuner car if you plan to race in a all japanese class, but you would have to soup that car up to compete with the s2k or the supra. I say go for it. But if you plan to race with all types of car. Try getting an sti or an evo. They are all well rounded

I would recommed a RSX Type S, Integra Type R or CRX, if you want to race. There are many more modifications available aftermarket and they are quite good track cars, if set up right. Suspension and brakes are usually the only thing needed. The Accord is heavier and not common on the track.

Answer is NO. And what type of racing...autoX, drag, drift, endurance, etc? Accords are in no way designed to be used as a platform for racing. The Accords you may have seen on T.V. racing are running tubular chasis' and subframes...they are basically a fiberglass molded body dropped onto a tubular chasis that has been built specifically for racing purposes. So in essence, they are no longer Accords. Any other Accords have been stripped down so much to reduce weight, before you know it you are riding in nothing but the subframe. Even then, tons of mods are made to the body to strengthen the chasis. Racing an Accord would be nearly the same as strapping a Honda motor to a boat anchor and racing around the track...I drifted a Camary station-wagon once, what a mess!The Accord Type-R (1998-2003) was limited to the European market. It had a H22A7 making 212bhp and 158lb-ft.The Accord Euro-R (2003-2007) was limited to the Japanese and European markets. It has the same engine as the 2002-2006 RSX Type-R, a K20A making 220bhp and 158lb-ft. After the 2006 model, the RSX was discontinued.These models are "sporty", but that is as far as it gets...despite that the "R" stands for racing. You'd be better off with an ITR or CTR, than an Accord Type-R/Euro-R.The best Honda for racing? One choice, 1987 and up CR-X's. The short wheel-base make the CR-X very nimble, as well as the CR-X being lightweight. Few mods need to be performed to the body for racing [unless drag racing]. Every other Honda has a weak body structure, in other words, you'll need major welding on the chasis and subframe to increase chasis/subframe rigidity to handle the stress of any type of racing [ITR & CTR models excluded, but still require some minor modifications].The worst Honda for racing is the Civic hatchback, specifically the 1992-1995 models. The chasis design is very weak, especially in the rear section. I own a 1993 Civic CX hatchback, and I had to weld a 10 point roll cage in the rear to stiffen and reduce chasis flex. In addition I re-welded over seams and joints and added fabricated sheet metal in problematic spots.I swapped a K20A into my hatch two-years ago, and have since swapped the K20 block for a K24 block because the K24 block makes more torque. I plan to use forced-induction by means of a custom turbine system producing more than 500whp. So I will most likely have to re-work the body to account for the large increase in horsepower/torque. As of now, the K20/24A makes 243whp and 181lb-ft.