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It's an occasional thing, but it seems to happen more often in hot weather or after I had just started the car for a short trip and turn it off. The engine will turn over, but it just won't start and the check engine light will stay on. After a few minutes, the check engine light turns off and then it will start again. If I get a running start and pop the clutch it will start no problem. Anybody know what's wrong?
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well, did you pull the diagnostic codes? Im assuming you dont know anything about cars
o this, find the diagnostics box under the hood. Stick a paper clip into "ecu" and "gnd", then get in your car and turn the key to "acc". Count the number of times the "check engine" light flashes.This will tell you the diagnostic codes.So say if flashes 3 times, a short pause, then 6 more flashes. This refers to code 36. If it flashes 3 times, a short pause, 6 more flashes, a longer pause, 1 flash, a short pause, three more flashes, this refers to codes 36 and 13.Do that first, then post what codes you have. |
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Intermittent no starts are very difficult to diagnose without actually having the car in front of you because there are many possibilities (eg. ignition, fuel, electrical, etc.). But by your description it sounds like you may have a loose electrical connection. The most cost effective thing for you to do is to have a techinician diagnose it instead of buying parts to replace something you may not need. The check engine light being on means nothing unless it stays on while the engine is running. Good new is if you are able to push start the engine your alternator is good
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LOL sounds exactly like the main relay. It's located under the dash near your left knee. This is common with third gens, I know because I have two of them, a 90 and a 91. If you have used a soldering iron you can fix it yourself. Just make sure that you have solder and the soldering iron because once this is out you wont be able to start your car at all.All you do is:Remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the fuse box. Once that is down you will see a black box with a connector. Disconnect it and take out the box. "Remove the plastic cover from the relay.You'll see the printed circuit board and all the solder points. Add a little solder to each making sure you melt the old solder."Put everything back and you're good!If you want to just buy one and avoid the hassle here's the part number:1989-1991 Prelude 2.0Si, Si - 39400-SF1-013 RELAY ASSY., MAIN (RZ-0081) (4P) (MITSUBA)Here is a website specifically for 3g preludes.www.Preludepower.comwww.prelude3g.comthe latter is where you can find fixes for common problems. Very informative. It also has pictures for the procedure I just described.Good luck!Edit- About the engine codes, you dont have to use a paperclip to read the ecu flashes. with the key on the I position, just pull the passenger side carpet up and you'll see a red light. This is where the ECU is. And this is how you count the flashes. I'll use the same examples as above. If you see 3 slow/long flashes, that will equal 30.Each slow flash equals 10. There shouldnt be an excess of 4 long flashes. If right after you read 6 fast flashes those count as 1, so it would equal 6 and you add those together which would be 36.If you have more than one code there will be a pause, and the new code will begin. If you miss it the first time, dont worry because it'll keep repeating itself.You can see what the codes mean here...http://3gprelude.tripod.com/tech/ecucode.html
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