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Old 02 Jul 2013, 06:32 pm
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Default 2003 Honda Civic Window Issues?

My 2003 Honda Civic started having issues a few months ago with the rear passenger window. I could roll it down from the driver's side, but I would have to roll it up from the back passenger window control. It will not roll up from the driver's seat at all, but it will roll down. I didn't mind so much since I could still control the window, it just wasn't very convenient.

Now, the driver's side back window isn't working at all. From the front or the back seat controls. I think the motor just stopped working, but since the other window was having issues, I wasn't sure if they were related.

The window has since been detached from the motor, and is currently duct taped "up" so I don't have to drive around with my window open all the time...but I look pretty silly with a duct taped window.

Here is what I have done so far to try and diagnose:

I have purchased the Chilton's car care manual for my car so I could get the wiring diagram.

Pictures of diagram:

After taking the driver side door apart and the two rear doors, I don't think the issues are stemming from the switches. I cleaned everything up, but none of the symptoms went away. Everything still works (or doesn't work) as it did before.

I tested the rear driver side window switch on the passenger rear window and it worked, both up and down, so I know the switch for that door is still working.

The rear passenger side switch controls its window just fine, so I don't think anything is wrong with it.

I'm going to order a new master switch for the driver's side door just in case that fixes the issue with being able to control the rear passenger window from the driver's seat.

My next step:

I took a multimeter to the wiring of all 3 doors. I only get a 12V reading from a handful of sockets on all 3 doors. I am new to using a multimeter so maybe I'm not doing it right? (any insight on where I should be testing/sticking the probes for each socket would be appreciated)

Right now, I'm sticking the black probe into the socket that has the big black wire going into it (which I think is "ground" and I'm sticking the red probe into each of the other sockets and looking for a reading--is this the correct method?

For the rear windows, there wasn't a big black cord, so I just tried all the combinations I could of the 2 probes with the 5 sockets. I still only got anything about every 1/5 combinations.

It has taken me a lot to get to this point as far as learning about multimeters/wiring diagrams/etc. All I really know is that the 12.4 V readings tell me that I'm getting power from my car's battery. Since I'm not getting reading from all the sockets, could this be the root of my issue? Or am I just using the multimeter wrong?

If these readings mean nothing, what would be my next trouble-shooting step? I have already checked all the fuses (under the hood and under the dash) and everything with them looks good to go.

Please be as detailed/elementary in your responses as possible. I am new to all this and learning things as I go.
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Old 02 Jul 2013, 06:46 pm
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No1 cares
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Old 02 Jul 2013, 07:01 pm
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 202

I read through your update on your last question. I'm not great with electrical diagrams, so can't add any more for that. I would wait until the master switch is replaced and then see if that fixes any of the problems.
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