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Old 19 Nov 2011, 04:31 am
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Default My 1994 honda civic is smoking and there is water and oil in the exhaust?

I have a 1994 Honda civic and it is smoking (white smoke) and there is water and oil in my exhaust and I replaced the head gasket and it is still doing the same thing. My car also keeps reeving between 1000 rpm and 2000 rpm on its own. Any suggestions?
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Old 19 Nov 2011, 04:47 am
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Could be a lot of things. You didn't say how many miles the engine had on it but since it's a '94, probably too many.

Quick guess - i'd say look for a new motor or scrap it. The "law of diminishing returns" applies here
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Old 19 Nov 2011, 05:02 am
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The revving sounds like a clogged Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). I'd suspect the new gasket failed or you have internal head or block damage due to there being oil AND water being burned off.
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Old 19 Nov 2011, 05:20 am
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Did you check the head for flatness when you replaced the head gasket? Presumably, you overheated the engine when you blew the original head gasket and the head has cracked or warped. If you really want to fix this antique, you will need to pul the head again, get it checked and rebuilt if possible. It may not be worth the work and cost, you'll have to see. A junkyard head may be a reasonable option if yours is toast.

The idle hunting is hard to tell what with the engine in such poor operating condition.

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Old 19 Nov 2011, 05:36 am
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At 17 years old some oil burning is inevitable, and water in the exhaust is normal in colder weather. Each gallon of gasoline produces approximately a gallon of water when it burns, making condensation the major contributor to exhaust humidity even when there is a fairly large head gasket problem. If you are not mysteriously losing coolant don't worry about the head gasket. Most of the time white smoke in the exhaust is water vapor (that is the entire basis of the stories of white smoke being a sign of head gasket failure - coolant does not produce appreciable smoke when it burns) and that is normal in cold weather.

The revving is most often a bubble in the coolant driving the fast idle thermo valve nuts. There is a bleed nipple on the housing where one of the radiator hoses attaches to the engine - open that 1/2 turn with a 12 mm socket when the engine is cold and close it when a steady stream of coolant comes out. That has to be done anytime the coolant is drained and refilled.
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Old 19 Nov 2011, 05:46 am
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lots of things. When you pull an aluminum head off the block they tend to warp slightly. This is why you have to send the head out to a machine shop to plane down the bottom surface before re-installing it. Depending on how much they have to shave off you might also have to adjust the timing. If it's only the first time your shaving don the head it probably won't matter though. So if this hadn't been done the gasket might not have created the seal it was supposed to, and since it's smoking white you're burning coolant fluid, which is bad, real bad so you should have a look at that. The revving could be a number of things as well. What I would do first is to turn it on let it idle on the fluctuating idle range, go out and tap on the idle air control unit and see if something changes. If so I'd pull it off and give it a cleaning (you can just use carb and choke cleaner on it), check and see if the throttle body is gummed up too when you do this.

If that is not the case there might be air in your coolant system. The proper way to bleed the coolant system requires you to fully drain it first. Then there is a bleeder for the system on the engine where the hose from the top of the radiator connects to the engine. Loosen up the bleeder fill the coolant system until coolant comes out of the bleeder, tighten it. Finish the coolant filling process, you have to run the engine to make sure that there is fluid in the entire system.

Hope this helps.
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