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Old 09 Jul 2011, 03:46 pm
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Default list to make a Honda CRX turbo? Need help..!?

ok i have a 1990 honda crx si siting on d15. soon imma make into a d16. but i want to go turbo with it. what are the things i need to make it a d16 turbo plz help!!















what is the list of things?
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Old 09 Jul 2011, 04:01 pm
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search from google































geekwallpapers4u.blogspot.com
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Old 09 Jul 2011, 04:16 pm
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Turbo kit wise you can find fairly decent ones on ebay but unless you KNOW what you are looking for stay away. Pre built kits like the Rev Hard kits are decent but pricey.































Turbo: get a t3 turbo. Fast spool and decent range for your Dseries. 50trim is a fairly popular starting point. If you have future plans to build your block, go 57mm or 60mm. Will have more lag but it will suit you better once you build.t3/t4 turbos same size trims. Will spool about the same but have better high rpm efficiency. Garrett turbos are best if you ask me. Ball bearing turbos will give you more low end power as well, but they come at a higher cost.































Turbo Manifold:















tubular in which case dont get off ebay, find an equal length tig welded steel one. Otherwise your asking for trouble. These manifolds premote nearly perfect exhaust flow thus excellent spool times. But you will more than likely loose Power steering and AC. Its a trade off.































cast manifolds. These are stronger all one piece so they dont tend to crack. Problem with these is they tend to be made kinda poorly for external wastegates. Find one that has the wastegate flange CENTER OVER the entire collector for the best results. Otherwise your gonna deal with boost creep. Very durable and usually allow for power steering and AC to be kept.































(top mounts are kind of a trend more than anything, but they claim to have faster spooling times. choose if you want, it will function as needed. and maybe it will give you better spool who knows.)















































Wastegates:















35mm or 38mm wastegates are good for your engine as they will be plenty big and allow room for growth. Tial is a popular low cost choice. get a dump tube as well































Boost Controller:















not needed unless you plan on boosting past what your wastegate spring see's. Electronic ones are expensive but offer the best tuneabiltiy and user friendly.















Manual boost controllers are trial and error but do what you need them too. Fairly inexpensive.































Instant manual Boost controller is best. It uses a ball and pin to hide the pressure until the setting is met and then flows to the wastegate.































High Flow exhausts will give you better performance from a turbo due to larger piping and better exhaust flow. Find one that has a good tune for your liking and call it good (youtube is great for finding a sound you like.)































Turbo downpipe: just get a muffler shop to make you one custom to match your piping size and use the correct flanges. thats the best way if you ask me. Some turbo kits will come with one but it might not fit very well and cost you preformance.































BOV: NEEDED. Greddy's are inexpensive and do the job. adjustable with springs they can mix and match for your particular set up. HKS also has a great sequential blow off valve that does an awesome job. Look aronund and find what you like (also these are usually included in kits)































Intercooler: Front mount for sure, size to your HP needs. Air cooled is fine, dont worry about water kits or anything like that. (your not pushing your car to its preformance limits)































Charge pipes/intercooler pipes: a intercooler kit comes with enough pieces to usually get you what you need. 2.25, 2.5, or 2.75 inch piping is optimal in my opinion.































Fuel:















larger injectors arent needed but they limit you. Get saturated and a good range is like a 550cc. That will alow for plenty for your engine and allow good growth too.































fuel rail isnt needed unless you want the "bling factor" or are planning on removing your pulsation dampener. (the larger bore will help with pulsations with the injectors, the dampener does this for you on stock rail)































FUEL MANAGEMENT IS A MUST be it a piggyback or standalone you will need a way to manage your air fuel ratios with boost. Standalones are by far the best, letting you do just about whatever your TUNER needs to do. Piggybacks are alright too but they are limited in custumizing and just arent as good as stand alones. My advice get an AEM EMS or a HONDATA (s300 preferred). Costly but so worth it and show every aspect of your engine during tuning.































Boost gague is nice to see while driving what your boosting and if you over boost you can see it right there.































Other gauges like oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, water temp, etc are just for info while driving. Not needed unless you are pushing your vehicle and need to know every bit of data you can. Larger tachs . . just dont do it!































last but MOST IMPORTANT. . GET IT DYNO TUNED WITH AN EXPERIENCED TUNER. . again this is most important. This will be how safe your engine will be.















Price wise be ready to spend 1500 - 3000 dollars depending on what skimp on for a decent turbo kit. Bought or custom this will be a good kit.































As for the engine swap make sure you have all sensors, wiring harness, and mounting brackets. They might be the same so you might be set to just drop in the engine and plug it all back up. Im not the one to ask for that.
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