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Old 14 Jun 2011, 03:46 pm
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Default I have a 91 accord how do I check to see if my ac compressor works and how do I fill the freeon?

I have a 91 accord how do I check to see if my ac compressor works and how do I fill the freeon?
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Old 14 Jun 2011, 04:01 pm
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There is a single wire going up into the a/c clutch, & there is usually a plug in that wire maybe 6" back. With the engine OFF & key OUT, unplug the wire & jump the clutch end directly to the battery. If the clutch is good, she'll give you a good solid CLICK ...
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Old 14 Jun 2011, 05:01 pm
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Ok you have a couple of problems...first you have a car that uses R12 ( you cannot purchase R12 small cans anymore...you can only get 30lbs bottles last year a 30lbs bottle cost $900 in the Houston Tx area) and R12 is very expensive. Second is that you will need to convert your a/c system to R134a which is not so expensive...Here is how i would handle your situation. First I would go ahead and convert your car to R134a...A good R134a kit will come with the fittings necessary to convert you old R12 fittings to R134a (you can purchase R134a small cans for about $12 a can) fittings and A/c oil which is known as Pag oil...MAKE SURE YOU USE PAG OIL...One of your A/c fittings is on the top close to the radiator cap and the other one is a little bit tricky its located when you are looking at the engine with the hood open the fitting is next to the right of the radiator very low close to the alternator...BE CAREFUL TO KEEP CLEAR OF ALL MOVING PARTS!!! THE ALTERNATOR WILL BE MOVING WITH THE ENGINE ON.!!! Those are your charging ports...you can add freon from those ports...Keep in mind I recommend you take it to a mechanic to get this done...A good mechanic will have all the tools need to make all the proper repairs...good luck and I hope this was helpful
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Old 14 Jun 2011, 05:16 pm
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Unless the system has been converted to R134a there is not much you can do with the refrigerant side of your A/C, and if it has been converted service requires the special equipment only a professional has.































You can see if the compressor is engaging by turning on the A/C at full cold and full fan, then looking at the clutch clapper that comprises the end of the compressor sticking out past the pulley. If it is turning then the compressor is working and if you are not getting cooling the problem is probably in the mixer, below the radio in the center console. If it is blowing hot air you should also verify the lever on the heater control valve is perpendicular to the hoses; it is in the heater hose on the passenger side near the bottom of the firewall.































Conversion at this stage is not likely to be worth the cost. A proper conversion is around $600, but sloppy conversions that may last a few years or a few weeks can be done for a lot less. See the first source for the minimum that can be expected to work long. The basic problems come from chemistry - the oils that work with R12 are not compatible with R134a, and the PAG oil R134a requires is broken down by even traces of chlorine left over from the R12 days (see the second source). I had a professional conversion done on our Volvo when the compressor failed, and the total was $1200 - about half for the conversion. Some people have success with the rinky-dink methods, but I had friends who had to replace their compressors within a year of conversion because of the various shortcuts.































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