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Old 09 Mar 2011, 09:16 pm
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Default 2002 Honda Accord EX 2.3L that is having an engine code for cylinder 4 misfire.?

I have had this problem for about 8 months. I replaced distributor cap and rotor, wires, plugs but still having the problem. I took it to a shop that told me first it was EGR valve but they had cleaned it and that was not the problem. Then the shop said it was a vacuum leak and then they said that was not it. Now they say that I have bad compression in cylinder 4 only 90 pounds when the other 3 are 205 pounds. They said this is due to a bad exhaust valve. They quoted me 400 for labor, 112 for Headset, 86 for Head blots, and 250 for machine shop. I read up a little bit on this and it seems when this happens (if this is in fact what is wrong) that I should get all 4 done at the same time plus have a new timing belt (of course I have an engine that has 2!) and a new water pump. On top of all that I read that when this happens the catalytic converter also goes bad and who knows how much that will be...like I said this has been happening for 8 months...is it possible I have been driving in 3 cylinders for that long?! Any advice on this mess would be great as I still owe 2000 on a car with a blown engine Thank you!
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Old 09 Mar 2011, 09:31 pm
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you know you have wasted a bunch of money right? why would you change parts that effect all cylinders when it is only effecting one cylinder?































things that effect one cylinder:















spark plug















spark plug wire















fuel injector































effects all cylinders















cap















rotor















cam sensor















crank sensor















a whole slew of parts.































if you want to save money you need to not throw parts at it and take it to a knowledgeable ASE certified garage not a shade tree mechanic.































if i were in your shoes I would go to Auto zone, Napa or some auto parts store and order a COMPLETE reman head. make sure it includes everything to drop in order a set of arp head studs from arp.com and a nice, NOT cheap head gasket set (should include intake and exhaust gaskets)































free labor and you'll never have to worry about another valve. trust me its not that hard if you follow the manual and have some one there to help. label everything you disconnect with masking tape and a sharpie you'll also need new oil and coolant. if you have never done this kinda stuff before it will probably take you the better half of a whole day. Parts list bellow...































if you are feeling really froggy I would recommended swapping in a whole new motor with less than 50,000 miles http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30037































then sell your current motor to recoup some of the losses.. motor swap is even easier than doing the head. unbolt motor mounts unplug sensors then throw a whole new engine in her. it'd be like brand new
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