Honda Car Forum

95 Integra manual with 140,000 miles. Here's the symptoms:

In the morning, I shift into reverse and back out of the garage, no
problem. But sometimes, when I try to shift out of reverse, the
shifter is stuck. When that happens, I need to shut off the engine,
shift into neutral, and then start the engine again. After that, no
problems with shifting for the rest of the day, even in and out of
reverse.

Any thoughts on what the issue may be? Or eliminate issues?

bucky3 (bucky3@mail.com) writes:
> 95 Integra manual with 140,000 miles. Here's the symptoms:
>
> In the morning, I shift into reverse and back out of the garage, no
> problem. But sometimes, when I try to shift out of reverse, the
> shifter is stuck. When that happens, I need to shut off the engine,
> shift into neutral, and then start the engine again. After that, no
> problems with shifting for the rest of the day, even in and out of
> reverse.
>
> Any thoughts on what the issue may be? Or eliminate issues?


Shifter linkage bushings? Investigate. Motor mounts? Investigate.

bucky3 <bucky3@mail.com> wrote in news:7574f2fd-aa0e-45cc-badc-21229cb988f7
@k13g2000prh.googlegroups.com:

> 95 Integra manual with 140,000 miles. Here's the symptoms:
>
> In the morning, I shift into reverse and back out of the garage, no
> problem. But sometimes, when I try to shift out of reverse, the
> shifter is stuck. When that happens, I need to shut off the engine,
> shift into neutral, and then start the engine again. After that, no
> problems with shifting for the rest of the day, even in and out of
> reverse.
>
> Any thoughts on what the issue may be? Or eliminate issues?




Exactly how do you start the engine and drive off?

Do you floor the clutch, then leave it there as you start the engine and
warm it up? Do you ever let the clutch out in neutral while warming up?


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

bucky3 wrote:
> 95 Integra manual with 140,000 miles. Here's the symptoms:
>
> In the morning, I shift into reverse and back out of the garage, no
> problem. But sometimes, when I try to shift out of reverse, the
> shifter is stuck. When that happens, I need to shut off the engine,
> shift into neutral, and then start the engine again. After that, no
> problems with shifting for the rest of the day, even in and out of
> reverse.
>
> Any thoughts on what the issue may be? Or eliminate issues?

if cable, clutch cable needs adjusting. if hydraulic, clutch circuit
needs filling & bleeding. if those don't work, the clutch plate center
is sticking to the input shaft. needs to be removed, replaced and a
little copper antiseize put onto the splines before reassembly.

On Aug 13, 7:03 pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
> Exactly how do you start the engine and drive off?
> Do you floor the clutch, then leave it there as you start the engine and
> warm it up? Do you ever let the clutch out in neutral while warming up?

I let the clutch out in neutral while the car warms up for 30 seconds,
then back out.

bucky3 <bucky3@mail.com> wrote in news:40103e92-a6df-48cb-8a8f-
c5b6e1f170bd@z4g2000prh.googlegroups.com:

> On Aug 13, 7:03 pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
>> Exactly how do you start the engine and drive off?
>> Do you floor the clutch, then leave it there as you start the engine and
>> warm it up? Do you ever let the clutch out in neutral while warming up?
>
> I let the clutch out in neutral while the car warms up for 30 seconds,
> then back out.



Next time you start the engine in the morning, don't just reverse out of
the driveway immediately, but pump the clutch pedal to the floor (and full
release) quickly several times before shifting into reverse.

If the lever does /not/ get stuck in reverse after the pedal-pump sequence
is performed, then jim beam is likely right about at least one of his two
major points.

My money is on the clutch actuation system not working properly (yours is
hydraulic, I believe). If the friction disc was sticking to the splines,
you'd have trouble shifting during normal driving as well.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger wrote:
> bucky3 <bucky3@mail.com> wrote in news:40103e92-a6df-48cb-8a8f-
> c5b6e1f170bd@z4g2000prh.googlegroups.com:
>
>> On Aug 13, 7:03 pm, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
>>> Exactly how do you start the engine and drive off?
>>> Do you floor the clutch, then leave it there as you start the engine and
>>> warm it up? Do you ever let the clutch out in neutral while warming up?
>> I let the clutch out in neutral while the car warms up for 30 seconds,
>> then back out.
>
>
>
> Next time you start the engine in the morning, don't just reverse out of
> the driveway immediately, but pump the clutch pedal to the floor (and full
> release) quickly several times before shifting into reverse.
>
> If the lever does /not/ get stuck in reverse after the pedal-pump sequence
> is performed, then jim beam is likely right about at least one of his two
> major points.
>
> My money is on the clutch actuation system not working properly (yours is
> hydraulic, I believe).

i'm with you on that.


> If the friction disc was sticking to the splines,
> you'd have trouble shifting during normal driving as well.

depends how bad it is. the synchromeshes make it easier to shift in
forward speeds than reverse so they are a little more tolerant of this
problem.


>
>

jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote in
news:VvudnQPx2ZJhwRjXnZ2dnUVZ_oxi4p2d@speakeasy.ne t:


>
>
>> If the friction disc was sticking to the splines,
>> you'd have trouble shifting during normal driving as well.
>
> depends how bad it is. the synchromeshes make it easier to shift in
> forward speeds than reverse so they are a little more tolerant of this
> problem.
>


I had that exact problem a few years ago.

It was especially difficult getting into second from first. Reverse was a
problem as well, but that came along at the exact same time as the forward-
gear problem.

When the (original) clutch was finally replaced at 256,000 miles, the input
shaft and friction disc splines were bright orange with rust. There was
absolutely none of the factory lubricant left at all.

That same transmission now has 327,000 miles on it. It's noisy as anything.
There's bearing whine at certain speeds, plus lots of rattle from some
source. Also the shifter is really sloppy. But gear-changing is just fine!


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

On Aug 14, 5:40 am, Tegger <inva...@invalid.inv> wrote:
> Next time you start the engine in the morning, don't just reverse out of
> the driveway immediately, but pump the clutch pedal to the floor (and full
> release) quickly several times before shifting into reverse.
> If the lever does /not/ get stuck in reverse after the pedal-pump sequence
> is performed, then jim beam is likely right about at least one of his two
> major points.
> My money is on the clutch actuation system not working properly (yours is
> hydraulic, I believe). If the friction disc was sticking to the splines,
> you'd have trouble shifting during normal driving as well.

OK, thanks for the tips! I'll try it out.

Tegger (invalid@invalid.inv) writes:
> jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote in
> news:VvudnQPx2ZJhwRjXnZ2dnUVZ_oxi4p2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>
>>
>>
>>> If the friction disc was sticking to the splines,
>>> you'd have trouble shifting during normal driving as well.
>>
>> depends how bad it is. the synchromeshes make it easier to shift in
>> forward speeds than reverse so they are a little more tolerant of this
>> problem.
>>
>
>
> I had that exact problem a few years ago.
>
> It was especially difficult getting into second from first. Reverse was a
> problem as well, but that came along at the exact same time as the forward-
> gear problem.
>
> When the (original) clutch was finally replaced at 256,000 miles, the input
> shaft and friction disc splines were bright orange with rust. There was
> absolutely none of the factory lubricant left at all.
>
> That same transmission now has 327,000 miles on it. It's noisy as anything.
> There's bearing whine at certain speeds, plus lots of rattle from some
> source. Also the shifter is really sloppy. But gear-changing is just fine!
>


So you're ruling out 100% that the problem isn't being caused by bad bushings
in the shift mechanism, bent shift rod, torque rod (road debris flying up
and bending aforementioned etc.) etc., and the intermittent difficulty
(shifting OUT of reverse) is attributed to a dragging clutch disc (whether
it is caused by a fagged out clutch hydraulic actuation, limp clutch cable
actuation, sticky clutch disc splines, or clutch adjustment)? Was the type
of clutch actuation ever established (cable or hydraulic)?

If so... and because the OP said it was intermittent, this problem can be
sort of easily recreated (when the shifter isn't balky), by simply making the
clutch drag slightly with the left foot, to feel if the balkiness is the
same.


====
"95 Integra manual with 140,000 miles. Here's the symptoms:

In the morning, I shift into reverse and back out of the garage, no
problem. But sometimes, when I try to shift out of reverse, the
shifter is stuck. When that happens, I need to shut off the engine,
shift into neutral, and then start the engine again. After that, no
problems with shifting for the rest of the day, even in and out of
reverse.

Any thoughts on what the issue may be? Or eliminate issues?"
====




>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/