Honda Car Forum | |
|
|||||||
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| Honda Parts Search |
|
| ||
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
E. Meyer wrote:
> On 5/30/09 12:13 PM, in article > QfudnbmPTPO39LzXnZ2dnUVZ_i1i4p2d@speakeasy.net, "jim beam" <me@privacy.net> > wrote: > >>> I think he has reasonable concerns that the test was not done correctly >>> and that there may not be a problem at all with the car. >> he's telling us a bunch of stuff which is inconsistent from post to >> post, and which does not accord with the facts. >> >> > > What "facts"? Other than what he has related here, you don't actually know > any "facts" to be challenging. > >>> The *correct* answer, instead of shotgunning the car with parts when it >>> may or may not actually need them, is to take the car to a shop with its >>> own exhaust gas analyzer, NOT an emissions test station, and find out if >>> there is actually a problem. >> if he can't do the usual pre-test prep, yes. >> >> > > Once again, if Beam feels the least bit challenged, the accusations of > stupidity directed toward everyone and anyone start flying. Best bet is to > just kill-file him. Life is too short. > please, if your reading age drops below 3rd grade, it's best you do. |
|
|||
|
robb wrote:
> > maybe the emmision machine was reading 2700 when he had it reved > up to 5K ? i do not know but someone probably knows there are > alot of experienced and smart people here. Well, it was stated that the tester was having a hard time positioning the machine's tach pickup... and 2700 is suspiciously close to 1/2 of 5000 (maybe the car's tach was actually reading 5400). IF the tach pickup was only getting every other spark (like from only one coil of a 2-coil pack on a 4-cylinder) then it could easily read 1/2 the correct value. Get it tested again somewhere else- that'll give you a final answer. |
|
|||
|
jim beam wrote:
> what is smarter? > > 1. doing the same thing you did before, and expecting a different > result [retesting]? or > > 2. fixing the freakin' car, /then/ retesting??? > > denial will only get you so far dude. it certainly won't save you money > or stop wasting electron on usenet! > C'mon, Jim.... Its a CHEAP test, and there's certainly reason to question the first test (yes you CAN screw it up... its not easy, but it can be done, and I mentioned one way- getting the tach pickup positioned incorrectly so that its off by a factor of 2). If this were an OBD-II system resetting a code repeatedly, I'd agree with you 100%, just fix the problem. But it WAS a suspect test procedure. |
|
|||
|
Steve wrote:
> robb wrote: > >> >> maybe the emmision machine was reading 2700 when he had it reved >> up to 5K ? i do not know but someone probably knows there are >> alot of experienced and smart people here. > > Well, it was stated that the tester was having a hard time positioning > the machine's tach pickup... that's the worst thing about the op's description of the test - the tach reading, unless it's a obdII vehicle, is taken by putting a sensor on one of the plug leads, under the hood, not a "paddle" on the dash. and revving the engine is perfectly kosher if the cat is cold or there is a misfire. bottom line, the test was good. the op's description was unreliable. and his paranoia unjustified. the emissions result was perfectly consistent with the failure that followed. > and 2700 is suspiciously close to 1/2 of > 5000 (maybe the car's tach was actually reading 5400). IF the tach > pickup was only getting every other spark (like from only one coil of a > 2-coil pack on a 4-cylinder) then it could easily read 1/2 the correct > value. > > Get it tested again somewhere else- that'll give you a final answer. > |
|
|||
|
Steve wrote:
> jim beam wrote: > >> what is smarter? >> >> 1. doing the same thing you did before, and expecting a different >> result [retesting]? or >> >> 2. fixing the freakin' car, /then/ retesting??? >> >> denial will only get you so far dude. it certainly won't save you >> money or stop wasting electron on usenet! >> > > C'mon, Jim.... > > Its a CHEAP test, and there's certainly reason to question the first > test (yes you CAN screw it up... its not easy, but it can be done, and I > mentioned one way- getting the tach pickup positioned incorrectly so > that its off by a factor of 2). very hard to mess it up. and you won't get a "factor of 2" on this vehicle. the test is kosher. the op's description is flawed. spending more money on a test would have been a waste. > > If this were an OBD-II system resetting a code repeatedly, I'd agree > with you 100%, just fix the problem. But it WAS a suspect test procedure. > > |
|
|||
|
jim beam wrote:
> Steve wrote: >> robb wrote: >> >>> >>> maybe the emmision machine was reading 2700 when he had it reved >>> up to 5K ? i do not know but someone probably knows there are >>> alot of experienced and smart people here. >> >> Well, it was stated that the tester was having a hard time positioning >> the machine's tach pickup... > > that's the worst thing about the op's description of the test - the tach > reading, unless it's a obdII vehicle, is taken by putting a sensor on > one of the plug leads, under the hood, not a "paddle" on the dash. Actually, I've seen OBD-1 inspections done on machines where a mag-mount antenna is stuck to the underside of the hood or fenderwell near the engine, not on a plug lead. Not all machines are made the same, and I immediately thought that design was just begging for a frequency error- crappy machine design if you ask me. But even clamping on a plug wire can have an error. I have used enough induction-pickup timing lights that get enough cross-talk between plug wires that they sometimes fire multiple times per distributor rotation, unless you position the pickup *very* carefully. And with a single antenna system like I described, you can get exactly the opposite problem on waste-spark ignition systems. The machine expects to pick up all spark pulses and divide by 4, but if it only picks up the spark from 1 coil and divides by 4, it will get 1/2 the correct RPM. and > revving the engine is perfectly kosher if the cat is cold or there is a > misfire. > > bottom line, the test was good. If the description was so poor, then you have no stronger case that it was good than I have in saying that it is questionable. > the op's description was unreliable. Some aspects were, I'll give you that. He admitted he wasn't paying close attention. But if he *EVER* saw 6000 on the car's tach, that alone make me suspicious. 3500 RPM or so- sure. 6000? No WAY. > and his paranoia unjustified. MAYBE. $30 for another test will remove all doubt. Cheap. If my wife came home with the same story, I'd take it myself and have it tested before I started throwing money at emissions parts. |
|
|||
|
> Would you not expect some scaling of failure into the 50/15 test > considering the severity of failure in the 25/25 test ? Maybe. Those cars can be sensitive to test procedures. I always let them run @ 2500 for 3 or 4 minutes before testing, I had a much easier time getting them to pass that way. > After researching some , would you expect a Oxygen Sensor > malfunction or something else ? I hate to sound nebulous, but... maybe.. O2, map, coolant sensor, tight valves.. there possibilities are almost endless. > Can the original O2 sensor last 18 yrs ? * The O2 sensor is the > original :} Er.. um.. maybe ![]() Yes, I have seen plenty of O2's last a long time. As another poster suggested, it's time to get your car someplace *competent* Ask your friends, call the BBB, call AAA.. find someone with a track record of 'very high quality'. Dont shotgun it with cheap parts, it may work, probably wont. At least 3/4's of the problems I see mentioned on this board stem from someone trying to save money.... Good luck, and I hope this helps. Ben |
|
|||
|
> Can the original O2 sensor last 18 yrs ? * The O2 sensor is the > original :} The original was of super high quality if it lasted over 200,000 miles. Why even try another brand? From my experience, denso's, bosch etc are all a crap shoot. If you install it and it doesnt work your only recourse is to exchange it and try another piece of crap and cross your fingers. Maybe they'll refund your money.. maybe not. If you value your time as I do, only use good parts, and never as a guess. HTH, Ben |
|
|||
|
What happen, what i did and PASS results follow.
First emmisions test failed. Tester had a difficult time geting a stable tach reading. Car died while driving two days later, would not re-start, or fire. Car had a very weak spark (as tested with my hand). Tested coil with Ohm meter at ~ 8 kOhms it was in replace range. I replaced ignition coil, replaced plug wires, I cleaned the rotor and cap terminals, I changed the plugs, replaced the PCV valve and put in a new engine air filter. Then i took for my free retest. 2009 **( RE-TEST )** numbers =========================== ....................25/25 test............50/15 --------------------------...........--------- HC ppm .........60....................54 CO %.............0.13 .................0.15 NOx ppm.......168...................146 RPM..............2084.................1913 CO + CO2 %....15.1...............15.1 So not too bad Thanks to groups for helping. robb "robb" <some@where.on.net> wrote in message news:Cq2dnYXO443w1oLXnZ2dnUVZ_vSdnZ2d@earthlink.co m... > > Need some help determining if emision failed due to real problem > and how to fix *OR* > was this a suspect emission tester and i just wait for > different tester ? what to do ? > > I am original owner of '93 civic Si HB 205,450 miles. > Only 5,400 highway miles were put on the car from 2008 test to > 2009 test. > > The car has passed emissions by no small margins till this year > and it FAILED miserably ? > > 2009 numbers > =========================== > ...................25/25 test............50/15 > ----------------------................--------- > HC ppm .....288.....................65 > CO %..........9.38 **...............0.20 > NOx ppm....345.....................255 > RPM............2718..................1971 > CO + CO2 %....18.3..............15.1 > > 2008 numbers > =========================== > ....................25/25 test...........50/15 > -------------------------.............--------- > HC ppm .....73........................70 > CO %..........0.22.....................0.23 > NOx ppm...236......................212 > RPM...........2100.....................1925 > CO + CO2 % 15.1.................15.1 > > > - at some point during testing he could not seem to get the gear > shifted so he left it in 1st and ran the car up to about 20 > miles per hour in 1st gear the car was running really loud so i > peeked in at the tach which up around 5000-6000 yes that is 5K-6K > and held it there for about 30 seconds waiting for the machine to > do something ? > > > Anyways, i would appreciate some helpful advice on what to fix or > do please > > robb > |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| '93 civic failed emission or suspicious emision test ? | robb | Honda 2 | 29 | 25 Jun 2009 03:46 pm |
| If I buy a Honda Civic in Ohio and transport it to LA will I have emission test problems? | sharon m | Honda Technical | 5 | 11 May 2009 08:01 pm |
| 97 Civic EX upgraded emission recall failed smog check ? | Rodo | Honda 3 | 1 | 30 Jul 2005 01:13 am |
| 89 Accord emission failed in CO test 25/25 | rajakaraja | Honda 2 | 1 | 30 Jul 2004 08:58 am |
| Re: 1987 honda civic carb problem -- high HC emission test | harryman | Honda 3 | 0 | 16 Jan 2004 09:11 pm |