Honda Car Forum

On Sun, 26 Apr 2009 15:43:59 +0000, krp wrote:

>
> "Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" <Trueno@e86.GTS> wrote in message
> newsan.2009.04.26.15.01.16.164538@e86.GTS...
>> On Sat, 25 Apr 2009 17:46:31 -0700, techman41973@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>>> I have a 97 Honda Accord with 280K. Recently, I pulled over from
>>> driving to check a map and when I put my car back in D, the engine
>>> just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse gear
>>> worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter position
>>> resulted in movement of the vehicle. In D & R and only on a small
>>> number of throttle applications, the car started moving forward
>>> slightly, similar to that brief moment before the clutch on a manual
>>> transmission is fully engaged. Before I pulled over my transmission
>>> was working absolutely perfectly. The AAA tow guy and several repair
>>> shops told me over the phone that the auto transmission needs to be
>>> replaced (~$2000). Not worth it with the age of the car. Its now
>>> sitting in my driveway. Ideally, I would tow it to a mechanic and have
>>> them verify this for sure. Im not sure its worth spending the money
>>> just to confirm this. Is there much of a chance that this problem
>>> would require a repair that doesnt involve replacing the entire
>>> automatic transmission?
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> One more question. It may take a while before I sell it. I plan on
>>> starting the engine once every 2-weeks or so to keep the engine in
>>> good order and battery charged. Should I add an oil or gasoline
>>> preservative?
>>
>> Did you check the fluid level? That would be the first thing I'd check.
>> Low level will cause exactly what you're talking about.
>>
>> If it's not sealed, change or clean the screen (and report back the
>> condition of any debris you find...) and drain as much as you can and
>> replace it.
>>
>> If you're adventerous, you can lift the front of the car, wheels off the
>> ground, pull the trans cooler lines (the one that pumps to the radiator),
>> get a few quarts of trans fluid and 'flush' the tranny by letting the car
>> idle in drive and pump the fluid out the tube while you replace it through
>> the filler. However, on a tranny this old that sounds like it may have
>> never been service, this could remove the loose friction material which
>> may be the only thing keeping it moving!
>>
>> DON'T have it powerflushed!!! It's too old, and then you really would need
>> to replace it.
>
>
> Sounds like he might luck out with just a normal fluid change and new
> trans filter. Not big bucks. Most shops will do it for around $100.


I do it myself for ~$35...not including 6-pack.

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= <Trueno@e86.GTS>
wrote in newsan.2009.04.26.17.33.11.21418@e86.GTS:

> On Sun, 26 Apr 2009 15:43:59 +0000, krp wrote:
>
>>
>> "Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" <Trueno@e86.GTS> wrote in message
>> newsan.2009.04.26.15.01.16.164538@e86.GTS...
>>> On Sat, 25 Apr 2009 17:46:31 -0700, techman41973@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have a 97 Honda Accord with 280K. Recently, I pulled over from
>>>> driving to check a map and when I put my car back in D, the engine
>>>> just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse
>>>> gear worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter
>>>> position resulted in movement of the vehicle. In D & R and only on
>>>> a small number of throttle applications, the car started moving
>>>> forward slightly, similar to that brief moment before the clutch on
>>>> a manual transmission is fully engaged. Before I pulled over my
>>>> transmission was working absolutely perfectly. The AAA tow guy and
>>>> several repair shops told me over the phone that the auto
>>>> transmission needs to be replaced (~$2000). Not worth it with the
>>>> age of the car. Its now sitting in my driveway. Ideally, I would
>>>> tow it to a mechanic and have them verify this for sure. Im not
>>>> sure its worth spending the money just to confirm this. Is there
>>>> much of a chance that this problem would require a repair that
>>>> doesnt involve replacing the entire automatic transmission?
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>> One more question. It may take a while before I sell it. I plan on
>>>> starting the engine once every 2-weeks or so to keep the engine in
>>>> good order and battery charged. Should I add an oil or gasoline
>>>> preservative?
>>>
>>> Did you check the fluid level? That would be the first thing I'd
>>> check. Low level will cause exactly what you're talking about.
>>>
>>> If it's not sealed, change or clean the screen (and report back the
>>> condition of any debris you find...) and drain as much as you can
>>> and replace it.
>>>
>>> If you're adventerous, you can lift the front of the car, wheels off
>>> the ground, pull the trans cooler lines (the one that pumps to the
>>> radiator), get a few quarts of trans fluid and 'flush' the tranny by
>>> letting the car idle in drive and pump the fluid out the tube while
>>> you replace it through the filler. However, on a tranny this old
>>> that sounds like it may have never been service, this could remove
>>> the loose friction material which may be the only thing keeping it
>>> moving!
>>>
>>> DON'T have it powerflushed!!! It's too old, and then you really
>>> would need to replace it.
>>
>>
>> Sounds like he might luck out with just a normal fluid change and
>> new
>> trans filter. Not big bucks. Most shops will do it for around $100.
>
>
> I do it myself for ~$35...not including 6-pack.
>
>
>

it better be cheeper than that as the honda has a drain plug and no
replaceable filter. Just did it on my son inlaws 98 accord. KB

--
THUNDERSNAKE #9

Protect your rights or "Lose" them
The 2nd Admendment guarantees the others

"Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" <Trueno@e86.GTS> wrote in message
newsan.2009.04.26.17.33.11.21418@e86.GTS...
> On Sun, 26 Apr 2009 15:43:59 +0000, krp wrote:
>
>>
>> "Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" <Trueno@e86.GTS> wrote in message
>> newsan.2009.04.26.15.01.16.164538@e86.GTS...
>>> On Sat, 25 Apr 2009 17:46:31 -0700, techman41973@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have a 97 Honda Accord with 280K. Recently, I pulled over from
>>>> driving to check a map and when I put my car back in D, the engine
>>>> just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse gear
>>>> worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter position
>>>> resulted in movement of the vehicle. In D & R and only on a small
>>>> number of throttle applications, the car started moving forward
>>>> slightly, similar to that brief moment before the clutch on a manual
>>>> transmission is fully engaged. Before I pulled over my transmission
>>>> was working absolutely perfectly. The AAA tow guy and several repair
>>>> shops told me over the phone that the auto transmission needs to be
>>>> replaced (~$2000). Not worth it with the age of the car. Its now
>>>> sitting in my driveway. Ideally, I would tow it to a mechanic and have
>>>> them verify this for sure. Im not sure its worth spending the money
>>>> just to confirm this. Is there much of a chance that this problem
>>>> would require a repair that doesnt involve replacing the entire
>>>> automatic transmission?
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>> One more question. It may take a while before I sell it. I plan on
>>>> starting the engine once every 2-weeks or so to keep the engine in
>>>> good order and battery charged. Should I add an oil or gasoline
>>>> preservative?
>>>
>>> Did you check the fluid level? That would be the first thing I'd check.
>>> Low level will cause exactly what you're talking about.
>>>
>>> If it's not sealed, change or clean the screen (and report back the
>>> condition of any debris you find...) and drain as much as you can and
>>> replace it.
>>>
>>> If you're adventerous, you can lift the front of the car, wheels off the
>>> ground, pull the trans cooler lines (the one that pumps to the
>>> radiator),
>>> get a few quarts of trans fluid and 'flush' the tranny by letting the
>>> car
>>> idle in drive and pump the fluid out the tube while you replace it
>>> through
>>> the filler. However, on a tranny this old that sounds like it may have
>>> never been service, this could remove the loose friction material which
>>> may be the only thing keeping it moving!
>>>
>>> DON'T have it powerflushed!!! It's too old, and then you really would
>>> need
>>> to replace it.
>>
>>
>> Sounds like he might luck out with just a normal fluid change and new
>> trans filter. Not big bucks. Most shops will do it for around $100.
>
>
> I do it myself for ~$35...not including 6-pack.

He doesn't sound like he'd be capable of doing that. Most likely it is
either low on fluid or It has 300K on an original filter. Seen that lots
before. Change the fluid AND filter and they run another 200K. Could be he
ran it for 150K and never looked at the trans stick to see if there was ANY
fluid in it.

krp wrote:
>
> "Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" <Trueno@e86.GTS> wrote in message
> newsan.2009.04.26.15.01.16.164538@e86.GTS...
>> On Sat, 25 Apr 2009 17:46:31 -0700, techman41973@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>>> I have a 97 Honda Accord with 280K. Recently, I pulled over from
>>> driving to check a map and when I put my car back in D, the engine
>>> just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse gear
>>> worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter position
>>> resulted in movement of the vehicle. In D & R and only on a small
>>> number of throttle applications, the car started moving forward
>>> slightly, similar to that brief moment before the clutch on a manual
>>> transmission is fully engaged. Before I pulled over my transmission
>>> was working absolutely perfectly. The AAA tow guy and several repair
>>> shops told me over the phone that the auto transmission needs to be
>>> replaced (~$2000). Not worth it with the age of the car. Its now
>>> sitting in my driveway. Ideally, I would tow it to a mechanic and have
>>> them verify this for sure. Im not sure its worth spending the money
>>> just to confirm this. Is there much of a chance that this problem
>>> would require a repair that doesnt involve replacing the entire
>>> automatic transmission?
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> One more question. It may take a while before I sell it. I plan on
>>> starting the engine once every 2-weeks or so to keep the engine in
>>> good order and battery charged. Should I add an oil or gasoline
>>> preservative?
>>
>> Did you check the fluid level? That would be the first thing I'd check.
>> Low level will cause exactly what you're talking about.
>>
>> If it's not sealed, change or clean the screen (and report back the
>> condition of any debris you find...) and drain as much as you can and
>> replace it.
>>
>> If you're adventerous, you can lift the front of the car, wheels off the
>> ground, pull the trans cooler lines (the one that pumps to the radiator),
>> get a few quarts of trans fluid and 'flush' the tranny by letting the car
>> idle in drive and pump the fluid out the tube while you replace it
>> through
>> the filler. However, on a tranny this old that sounds like it may have
>> never been service, this could remove the loose friction material which
>> may be the only thing keeping it moving!
>>
>> DON'T have it powerflushed!!! It's too old, and then you really would
>> need
>> to replace it.
>
>
> Sounds like he might luck out with just a normal fluid change and new
> trans filter. Not big bucks. Most shops will do it for around $100.
>

wasting money on oil without a proper diagnosis is ridiculous.

On 4/26/09 5:44 AM, in article eWWIl.674$fy.290@nwrddc01.gnilink.net, "krp"
<krp34@verizon.net> wrote:

>
> <techman41973@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:93cac78b-2e33-42e3-a31e-984d382d9b75@w35g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>> I have a 97 Honda Accord with 280K. Recently, I pulled over from
>> driving to check a map and when I put my car back in D, the engine
>> just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse gear
>> worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter position
>> resulted in movement of the vehicle. In D & R and only on a small
>> number of throttle applications, the car started moving forward
>> slightly, similar to that brief moment before the clutch on a manual
>> transmission is fully engaged. Before I pulled over my transmission
>> was working absolutely perfectly. The AAA tow guy and several repair
>> shops told me over the phone that the auto transmission needs to be
>> replaced (~$2000). Not worth it with the age of the car. Its now
>> sitting in my driveway. Ideally, I would tow it to a mechanic and have
>> them verify this for sure. Im not sure its worth spending the money
>> just to confirm this. Is there much of a chance that this problem
>> would require a repair that doesnt involve replacing the entire
>> automatic transmission?
>
>
> Start with this. Drain the trans fluid and change the filter. If that
> doesn't do it, go to a bone yard and swap transmissions. But again change
> fluid and filter on that one before driving.
>

There's no replaceable filter on a '97 Honda Automatic, just a drain plug.

On 4/26/09 10:43 AM, in article 3j%Il.2927$b11.821@nwrddc02.gnilink.net,
"krp" <krp34@verizon.net> wrote:

>
> "Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B" <Trueno@e86.GTS> wrote in message
> newsan.2009.04.26.15.01.16.164538@e86.GTS...
>> On Sat, 25 Apr 2009 17:46:31 -0700, techman41973@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>>> I have a 97 Honda Accord with 280K. Recently, I pulled over from
>>> driving to check a map and when I put my car back in D, the engine
>>> just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse gear
>>> worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter position
>>> resulted in movement of the vehicle. In D & R and only on a small
>>> number of throttle applications, the car started moving forward
>>> slightly, similar to that brief moment before the clutch on a manual
>>> transmission is fully engaged. Before I pulled over my transmission
>>> was working absolutely perfectly. The AAA tow guy and several repair
>>> shops told me over the phone that the auto transmission needs to be
>>> replaced (~$2000). Not worth it with the age of the car. Its now
>>> sitting in my driveway. Ideally, I would tow it to a mechanic and have
>>> them verify this for sure. Im not sure its worth spending the money
>>> just to confirm this. Is there much of a chance that this problem
>>> would require a repair that doesnt involve replacing the entire
>>> automatic transmission?
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> One more question. It may take a while before I sell it. I plan on
>>> starting the engine once every 2-weeks or so to keep the engine in
>>> good order and battery charged. Should I add an oil or gasoline
>>> preservative?
>>
>> Did you check the fluid level? That would be the first thing I'd check.
>> Low level will cause exactly what you're talking about.
>>
>> If it's not sealed, change or clean the screen (and report back the
>> condition of any debris you find...) and drain as much as you can and
>> replace it.
>>
>> If you're adventerous, you can lift the front of the car, wheels off the
>> ground, pull the trans cooler lines (the one that pumps to the radiator),
>> get a few quarts of trans fluid and 'flush' the tranny by letting the car
>> idle in drive and pump the fluid out the tube while you replace it through
>> the filler. However, on a tranny this old that sounds like it may have
>> never been service, this could remove the loose friction material which
>> may be the only thing keeping it moving!
>>
>> DON'T have it powerflushed!!! It's too old, and then you really would need
>> to replace it.
>
>
> Sounds like he might luck out with just a normal fluid change and new
> trans filter. Not big bucks. Most shops will do it for around $100.
>

It sounds like you're not familiar with Honda Automatics of that generation.

There is no filter, no pan, just a drain plug. Its easier than changing the
oil. The main thing is that you have to use Honda ATF if you want it to
work at all and Honda explicitly warns against power flushing them.

The first question I would ask is whether any of these guys quoting $2000
transmission replacements even looked at the fluid level first.

No, Honda automatics do *not* have have replaceable strainers that you
just replace "after dropping the pan".

The transmission case is basically two halves of an egg shell, and
requires major work just to replace the strainer. That's why Honda
added an external one, a cheaper version of Magnafine:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/Magnafine-T...-600010252.jcw

Or you can go to your Honda dealer and pick on up. Make sure it's
installed in the correct direction or you'll junk the transmission in
no time.

On Apr 26, 8:43*am, "krp" <kr...@verizon.net> wrote:

> * * Sounds like he might luck out with just a normal fluid change andnew
> trans filter. Not big bucks. Most shops will do it for around $100.

You are so right!!

On Apr 26, 2:51*pm, "E. Meyer" <epmeye...@msn.com> wrote:
> It sounds like you're not familiar with Honda Automatics of that generation.
>
> There is no filter, no pan, just a drain plug. *Its easier than changing the
> oil. *The main thing is that you have to use Honda ATF if you want it to
> work at all and Honda explicitly warns against power flushing them.
>
> The first question I would ask is whether any of these guys quoting $2000
> transmission replacements even looked at the fluid level first.

"jim beam" <retard-finger@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:gaudnX0ZdoNvWmnUnZ2dnUVZ_tBi4p2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> krp wrote:
>>
>> "Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" <Trueno@e86.GTS> wrote in message
>> newsan.2009.04.26.15.01.16.164538@e86.GTS...
>>> On Sat, 25 Apr 2009 17:46:31 -0700, techman41973@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have a 97 Honda Accord with 280K. Recently, I pulled over from
>>>> driving to check a map and when I put my car back in D, the engine
>>>> just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse gear
>>>> worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter position
>>>> resulted in movement of the vehicle. In D & R and only on a small
>>>> number of throttle applications, the car started moving forward
>>>> slightly, similar to that brief moment before the clutch on a manual
>>>> transmission is fully engaged. Before I pulled over my transmission
>>>> was working absolutely perfectly. The AAA tow guy and several repair
>>>> shops told me over the phone that the auto transmission needs to be
>>>> replaced (~$2000). Not worth it with the age of the car. Its now
>>>> sitting in my driveway. Ideally, I would tow it to a mechanic and have
>>>> them verify this for sure. Im not sure its worth spending the money
>>>> just to confirm this. Is there much of a chance that this problem
>>>> would require a repair that doesnt involve replacing the entire
>>>> automatic transmission?
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>> One more question. It may take a while before I sell it. I plan on
>>>> starting the engine once every 2-weeks or so to keep the engine in
>>>> good order and battery charged. Should I add an oil or gasoline
>>>> preservative?
>>>
>>> Did you check the fluid level? That would be the first thing I'd check.
>>> Low level will cause exactly what you're talking about.
>>>
>>> If it's not sealed, change or clean the screen (and report back the
>>> condition of any debris you find...) and drain as much as you can and
>>> replace it.
>>>
>>> If you're adventerous, you can lift the front of the car, wheels off the
>>> ground, pull the trans cooler lines (the one that pumps to the
>>> radiator),
>>> get a few quarts of trans fluid and 'flush' the tranny by letting the
>>> car
>>> idle in drive and pump the fluid out the tube while you replace it
>>> through
>>> the filler. However, on a tranny this old that sounds like it may have
>>> never been service, this could remove the loose friction material which
>>> may be the only thing keeping it moving!
>>>
>>> DON'T have it powerflushed!!! It's too old, and then you really would
>>> need
>>> to replace it.
>>
>>
>> Sounds like he might luck out with just a normal fluid change and new
>> trans filter. Not big bucks. Most shops will do it for around $100.
>>
>
> wasting money on oil without a proper diagnosis is ridiculous.

Maybe but it is the cheapest place to start.

"E. Meyer" <epmeyer50@msn.com> wrote in message
news:C61A41A7.8254%epmeyer50@msn.com...

> It sounds like you're not familiar with Honda Automatics of that
> generation.
>
> There is no filter, no pan, just a drain plug. Its easier than changing
> the
> oil. The main thing is that you have to use Honda ATF if you want it to
> work at all and Honda explicitly warns against power flushing them.
>
> The first question I would ask is whether any of these guys quoting $2000
> transmission replacements even looked at the fluid level first.


I may be mistaken, I thought it had a filter. I wonder if HE checked the
trans stick???