Honda Car Forum

johngdole@hotmail.com wrote in
news:f061a230-9f44-493e-96c9-c61b64da4f3d@k36g2000pri.googlegroups.com:



<snip>

I'm gonna answer all your post in this one reply.

My goodness you've been productively busy, and I thank you very much.

The contents/intent of your recent posts here will eventually make it into
the torque wrench page. I'm just not sure quite when.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:8qbZk.97208$_h3.92226@fe01.news.easynews.com:

> On Tue, 02 Dec 2008 12:35:38 +0000, Tegger wrote:
>
>> Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in news:Xns9B68493394280tegger@
>> 208.90.168.18:
>>
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:xQ2Zk.95550$_h3.45695@fe01.news.easynews.com:
>>
>>
>>>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torqu...loded_view.jpg
>>>>
>>>> the polymers in the actual tilt block unit are subject to
>>>> "relaxation". if you set the spring and measure torque at 10
>>>> seconds, 30 seconds, 60 seconds, 2 minutes, 5 minutes and 10
>>>> minutes, [etc] you'd get a progressively lower torque trigger
>>>> reading every time.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hm. I wonder by what amount?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> I just had a close look at the picture you referenced, plus my
>> original photos.
>>
>> I'm pretty certain the item I call the "anti-windup assembly" only
>> had a skin of polymer around the outside as a cage, serving only to
>> hold the ball bearings in place. The assembly itself was steel all
>> the way through to the bottom where the spring bore against it.
>>
>> This wrench has no polymer load-bearing parts.
>
>
> if that's the case, it's ok to leave it "loaded" when not being used.
> if there's any polymer, you have to unload it.



The manual says you must dial it down to no more than 20% of capacity if
letting it sit for an extended length of time. This suggests that leaving
it at a higher setting will result in permanent distortion of the spring's
steel.

I'm paranoid enough to want to take /all/ the load off the spring when
storing the wrench, so I bring it down all the way.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Yeah, the detents should help hold the readings. The Sears version of
the Danaher-built wrench is probably the cheapest one they make
(especially during the 50% off sale), then come the Lowe's/SK and
GearWrench/Armstrong/Matco (3% accuracy). All from Danaher of course.

After reading Tegger's detailed description, I'm confident that if
needed you can order a handle from Sears (~$8 plus shipping) and
recalibrate it yourself (home-garage-grade calibration, of course). Or
better, change to a Lowe's or SK style handle except I'm not sure
where to get them (maybe Angle Repair?).

I would use a beam type to baseline the readings of your wrench at 30%
and 60% max torque (or more points), and measure the protrusion of the
adjusting bolt, similar to how you would a brake master cylinder push
rod. Adjust the bolt so you get minimal torque differences at those
points, well approximately anyway. It shouldn't be that difficult
(with the proper thin-walled socket and allen wrench) because one
adjusting bolt means linear adjustment, right?

Now, Tegger may be able to get that torn-apart wrench back into
service......



On Dec 3, 9:07*pm, z <gzuck...@snail-mail.net> wrote:
> yep, one more victim of the busted plastic sears lock ring here.
> otherwise, seems to be a decent wrench. i busted the ratchet out of a
> cheaper wrench previously,
>
> still works OK despite the busted lock ring, you just have to be
> careful not to twist the handle. any day now i've been planinng to
> wrap the lock ring with a screw type hose clamp, that oughta hold it.

johngdole@hotmail.com wrote in news:e887a944-611e-4817-ba5b-601bc857da04
@q26g2000prq.googlegroups.com:

> Yeah, the detents should help hold the readings. The Sears version of
> the Danaher-built wrench is probably the cheapest one they make
> (especially during the 50% off sale), then come the Lowe's/SK and
> GearWrench/Armstrong/Matco (3% accuracy). All from Danaher of course.
>
> After reading Tegger's detailed description, I'm confident that if
> needed you can order a handle from Sears (~$8 plus shipping) and
> recalibrate it yourself (home-garage-grade calibration, of course). Or
> better, change to a Lowe's or SK style handle except I'm not sure
> where to get them (maybe Angle Repair?).
>
> I would use a beam type to baseline the readings of your wrench at 30%
> and 60% max torque (or more points), and measure the protrusion of the
> adjusting bolt, similar to how you would a brake master cylinder push
> rod. Adjust the bolt so you get minimal torque differences at those
> points, well approximately anyway. It shouldn't be that difficult
> (with the proper thin-walled socket and allen wrench) because one
> adjusting bolt means linear adjustment, right?
>
> Now, Tegger may be able to get that torn-apart wrench back into
> service......




I wish! It's in the town dump somewhere by now. I tossed it during a
housecleaning soon after doing the intial writeup.

And hey, it's been a while, but I finally got your contributions up on the
torque wrench page.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html

Thanks very much.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/