Honda Car Forum

Hi,

I've just gone out to my 97 Honda Accord and there is no pressure on my
clutch pedal.

If I push it down, it goes all the way to the floor, and if I then lift it a
little the spring causes
it to come back up. Initially there was a little bit of pressure bringing
it back up, but now
there's none (engine off or on).

When the engine is on, I can't engage any gears, presumably because
depressing the
clutch pedal is not having the normal effect. With the engine off, I can
select any of the
gears, and if I start the car in a gear it 'jumps' which implies the clutch
*is* engaged
and the gear selection is working. I am a bit wary of doing this too much
as I don't want
to put unnecessary strain on any other components in the clutch/gearbox.

My guess is clutch master or cylinder - does that sound right? Is there
anything simpler
that could cause these symptoms? I had a full service about a month ago, so
all the
fluids should have been topped up then, and I haven't noticed any fluid
leaks on the
driveway. I'd go and check the fluids right now but it's dark and there's a
gale blowing!

As it stands I'm going to have to get it towed to the garage as I can't
drive it at the moment.

Thanks for any help anyone can offer,
Al

PS If anyone in the UK is reading, what sort of figure should I be looking
out for a new
clutch cylinder fitted at an independent mechanic?

On Sat, 08 Nov 2008 19:52:05 +0000, Al Reynolds wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I've just gone out to my 97 Honda Accord and there is no pressure on my
> clutch pedal.
>
> If I push it down, it goes all the way to the floor, and if I then lift
> it a little the spring causes
> it to come back up. Initially there was a little bit of pressure
> bringing it back up, but now
> there's none (engine off or on).
>
> When the engine is on, I can't engage any gears, presumably because
> depressing the
> clutch pedal is not having the normal effect. With the engine off, I
> can select any of the
> gears, and if I start the car in a gear it 'jumps' which implies the
> clutch *is* engaged
> and the gear selection is working. I am a bit wary of doing this too
> much as I don't want
> to put unnecessary strain on any other components in the clutch/gearbox.
>
> My guess is clutch master or cylinder - does that sound right? Is there
> anything simpler
> that could cause these symptoms? I had a full service about a month
> ago, so all the
> fluids should have been topped up then, and I haven't noticed any fluid
> leaks on the
> driveway. I'd go and check the fluids right now but it's dark and
> there's a gale blowing!
>
> As it stands I'm going to have to get it towed to the garage as I can't
> drive it at the moment.
>
> Thanks for any help anyone can offer, Al
>
> PS If anyone in the UK is reading, what sort of figure should I be
> looking out for a new
> clutch cylinder fitted at an independent mechanic?

clutch master is the commonest fault. needs replacement. if you need to
drive the car, you might be able to refill the clutch fluid reservoir and
pump it sufficiently to get it working, but this is a strictly temporary
fix.

beware also that brake fluid is leaking inside the car and will need to be
cleaned out. soapy water is best. dry with paper towels to make sure the
brake fluid chemicals are removed, not simply diluted.

Al Reynolds wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I've just gone out to my 97 Honda Accord and there is no pressure on
> my clutch pedal.
>
> If I push it down, it goes all the way to the floor, and if I then
> lift it a little the spring causes
> it to come back up. Initially there was a little bit of pressure
> bringing it back up, but now
> there's none (engine off or on).
>
> When the engine is on, I can't engage any gears, presumably because
> depressing the
> clutch pedal is not having the normal effect. With the engine off, I
> can select any of the
> gears, and if I start the car in a gear it 'jumps' which implies the
> clutch *is* engaged
> and the gear selection is working. I am a bit wary of doing this too
> much as I don't want
> to put unnecessary strain on any other components in the
> clutch/gearbox.
> My guess is clutch master or cylinder - does that sound right? Is
> there anything simpler
> that could cause these symptoms? I had a full service about a month
> ago, so all the
> fluids should have been topped up then, and I haven't noticed any
> fluid leaks on the
> driveway. I'd go and check the fluids right now but it's dark and
> there's a gale blowing!
>
> As it stands I'm going to have to get it towed to the garage as I
> can't drive it at the moment.
>
> Thanks for any help anyone can offer,
> Al
>
> PS If anyone in the UK is reading, what sort of figure should I be
> looking out for a new
> clutch cylinder fitted at an independent mechanic?

It may be either cylinder or the hose. Most common in my experience is the
slave (at the gearbox) Last one I fitted was about a hundred quid IIRC Put
some more fluid in, pump the pedal a few times and see where it falls out,
either inside the car or on the floor.

On 8 Nov, 20:37, "Mrcheerful" <nbk...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> It may be either cylinder or the hose. *Most common in my experience isthe
> slave (at the gearbox) *Last one I fitted was about a hundred quid IIRC*

There's an 89 - 98 Accord slave cylinder on ebay at £38.95 inc p&P
( 260304267970)

Ian

Thus spake jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> :

>On Sat, 08 Nov 2008 19:52:05 +0000, Al Reynolds wrote:

<snip>

>clutch master is the commonest fault. needs replacement. if you need to
>drive the car, you might be able to refill the clutch fluid reservoir and
>pump it sufficiently to get it working, but this is a strictly temporary
>fix.
>
>beware also that brake fluid is leaking inside the car and will need to be
>cleaned out. soapy water is best. dry with paper towels to make sure the
>brake fluid chemicals are removed, not simply diluted.

If there's fluid on the floor, it's the master. If the fluid is all
over the bell housing, it's the slave. But, as the man said, I'd bet
on the master first (doesn't have to leak into the car, though, but if
it does, that's a sure sign).

Refill and go may work for 50 miles, or only 5. Depends on how bad it
is.

> As it stands I'm going to have to get it towed to the garage as I can't
> drive it at the moment.
>

As a matter of fact, you CAN drive the car in this condition. I and probably
a million others have done it. You have to put the car into gear with the
engine stopped and then start it. After that you will be able to change from
gear to gear if you get the revs right. All this is not easy in traffic, but
not impossible. Saves the cost of a tow.

Rob Graham

Thanks for all the comments.

I just had the AA mechanic check it and both the master and slave cylinders
have gone - apparently the master is worse.

He has refilled and bled the system which should be just enough to get me to
my garage to get them fixed.

Both cylinders are reasonably easily accessible so hopefully the labour
won't be too much!

Al

"Al Reynolds" <ajr-news@bat400.com> wrote in message
news:4WCRk.30012$yK5.18051@newsfe24.ams2...
> Thanks for all the comments.
>
> I just had the AA mechanic check it and both the master and slave
> cylinders have gone - apparently the master is worse.
>
> He has refilled and bled the system which should be just enough to get me
> to my garage to get them fixed.
>
> Both cylinders are reasonably easily accessible so hopefully the labour
> won't be too much!
>

Sounds eminently more sensible than what I've led to believe regarding the
clutch slave cylinder on my Ford focus, which is apparently located 'inside'
the gearbox bell housing, can anyone confirm if this is true?

>
>
>
>

"Ivan" <ivan'H'older@yahoo.com> wrote
> Sounds eminently more sensible than what I've led to believe regarding the
> clutch slave cylinder on my Ford focus, which is apparently located
> 'inside' the gearbox bell housing, can anyone confirm if this is true?

I've heard this too about Focuses. Lots of people change the slave if they
have any gearbox work done as it saves on cost later (apparently).

For the record, it was just the slave cylinder (AA man overcautious) and
it cost me £125 all in. Honda wanted £215.

Al

Al Reynolds wrote:
> "Ivan" <ivan'H'older@yahoo.com> wrote
>> Sounds eminently more sensible than what I've led to believe
>> regarding the clutch slave cylinder on my Ford focus, which is
>> apparently located 'inside' the gearbox bell housing, can anyone
>> confirm if this is true?
>
> I've heard this too about Focuses. Lots of people change the slave
> if they have any gearbox work done as it saves on cost later
> (apparently).
> For the record, it was just the slave cylinder (AA man overcautious)
> and it cost me £125 all in. Honda wanted £215.
>
> Al

Strange, that is just what I said it would be one week ago.