Honda Car Forum

1994 Honda Accord LX Cold Weather Starting Problem


Seems to only occur in very cold weather, -20 C and after the car has
been sitting outside for 10 hours or more.

When the key is in the ignition and turned to the On position (II) the
Charging System Indicator Light, the Daytime Running Lights Indicator
light, and the Supplemental Restraint System Indicator Lights are not
lit. Actually no lights on the dash are lit.

Thus when the key is turned to the Start position (III) absolutely
nothing happens.

During this time my horn, radio as well as my fan/heater works.

After up to 15 tries of turning the key to the start position in the
ignition the dash lights will suddenly come on (i.e. Charging System
Indicator Light, etc) and the car will then start no problem.

Once the car is warmed up there is no problem trying to start the car
again throughout the day.

Could the contacts in the ignition switch be going bad? Could the cold
weather worsen the problem due to parts contracting?

At the same time once the car has started and I turn on my low beam
headlights there can be up to a 20 second delay before they actually
come on. Could this be a bad headlight combination switch? And are
these two problems realted?


History

Battery was replaced in Sept 2005, was checked about a month ago and
told it is okay, ie Cold Cranking Amps ok etc .

Daytime running light module was replaced one year ago.

Back plate of ignition switch replaced 2 years ago.


Any ideas........Thanks ahead of time.

bgodd99 <bgodd99@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1193699463.718338.130530
@o38g2000hse.googlegroups.com:

> 1994 Honda Accord LX Cold Weather Starting Problem
>
>
> Seems to only occur in very cold weather, -20 C and after the car has
> been sitting outside for 10 hours or more.
>
> When the key is in the ignition and turned to the On position (II) the
> Charging System Indicator Light, the Daytime Running Lights Indicator
> light, and the Supplemental Restraint System Indicator Lights are not
> lit. Actually no lights on the dash are lit.
>
> Thus when the key is turned to the Start position (III) absolutely
> nothing happens.




Ignition switch, most likely.



>
> During this time my horn, radio as well as my fan/heater works.
>
> After up to 15 tries of turning the key to the start position in the
> ignition the dash lights will suddenly come on (i.e. Charging System
> Indicator Light, etc) and the car will then start no problem.
>
> Once the car is warmed up there is no problem trying to start the car
> again throughout the day.
>
> Could the contacts in the ignition switch be going bad? Could the cold
> weather worsen the problem due to parts contracting?



Yes. Or hardened grease.


>
> At the same time once the car has started and I turn on my low beam
> headlights there can be up to a 20 second delay before they actually
> come on. Could this be a bad headlight combination switch?




Yep. Try repeatedly rotating the switch rapidly from off to on. This may
help re-establish contact and the switch may work more effectively for a
while.



> And are
> these two problems realted?


No. Well, same basic cause, but different parts involved.



>
>
> History
>
> Battery was replaced in Sept 2005, was checked about a month ago and
> told it is okay, ie Cold Cranking Amps ok etc .
>
> Daytime running light module was replaced one year ago.
>
> Back plate of ignition switch replaced 2 years ago.



"Back plate"? You mean the one with the solder on it? Was it replaced
with new OEM or "refurbished" aftermarket? Or was the entire switch
replaced (which I am more likely to expect)?



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

On Oct 29, 6:35 pm, Tegger <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote:
> bgodd99 <bgod...@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1193699463.718338.130530
> @o38g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
>
> > 1994 Honda Accord LX Cold Weather Starting Problem
>
> > Seems to only occur in very cold weather, -20 C and after the car has
> > been sitting outside for 10 hours or more.
>
> > When the key is in the ignition and turned to the On position (II) the
> > Charging System Indicator Light, the Daytime Running Lights Indicator
> > light, and the Supplemental Restraint System Indicator Lights are not
> > lit. Actually no lights on the dash are lit.
>
> > Thus when the key is turned to the Start position (III) absolutely
> > nothing happens.
>
> Ignition switch, most likely.
>
>
>
> > During this time my horn, radio as well as my fan/heater works.
>
> > After up to 15 tries of turning the key to the start position in the
> > ignition the dash lights will suddenly come on (i.e. Charging System
> > Indicator Light, etc) and the car will then start no problem.
>
> > Once the car is warmed up there is no problem trying to start the car
> > again throughout the day.
>
> > Could the contacts in the ignition switch be going bad? Could the cold
> > weather worsen the problem due to parts contracting?
>
> Yes. Or hardened grease.
>
>
>
> > At the same time once the car has started and I turn on my low beam
> > headlights there can be up to a 20 second delay before they actually
> > come on. Could this be a bad headlight combination switch?
>
> Yep. Try repeatedly rotating the switch rapidly from off to on. This may
> help re-establish contact and the switch may work more effectively for a
> while.
>
> > And are
> > these two problems realted?
>
> No. Well, same basic cause, but different parts involved.
>
>
>
> > History
>
> > Battery was replaced in Sept 2005, was checked about a month ago and
> > told it is okay, ie Cold Cranking Amps ok etc .
>
> > Daytime running light module was replaced one year ago.
>
> > Back plate of ignition switch replaced 2 years ago.
>
> "Back plate"? You mean the one with the solder on it? Was it replaced
> with new OEM or "refurbished" aftermarket? Or was the entire switch
> replaced (which I am more likely to expect)?
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

New OEM honda parts but only back plate of the ignition switch was
replaced a few years back, not the entire ignition switch.

bgodd99 wrote:

> New OEM honda parts but only back plate of the ignition switch was
> replaced a few years back, not the entire ignition switch.
>
-----------------------------
Read through the ignition switch recall ( I realize yours is older) :

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/a...ex.html#accord

It could just be your starter brushes, so read through this thread and
follow ALL the links.
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=20252&

It would be very helpful to know your mileage.

'Curly'

bgodd99 wrote:
>
> History
>
> Battery was replaced in Sept 2005, was checked about a month ago and
> told it is okay, ie Cold Cranking Amps ok etc .
> Daytime running light module was replaced one year ago.
> Back plate of ignition switch replaced 2 years ago.
> Any ideas........Thanks ahead of time.
>
---------------------------

You know about holding the pedal to the mat when it's that cold, yes?
It's in the owner's manual. I park on the prairie a lot in winter.

'Curly'

On Oct 29, 7:11 pm, bgodd99 <bgod...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 1994 Honda Accord LX Cold Weather Starting Problem
>
> Seems to only occur in very cold weather, -20 C and after the car has
> been sitting outside for 10 hours or more.
>
> When the key is in the ignition and turned to the On position (II) the
> Charging System Indicator Light, the Daytime Running Lights Indicator
> light, and the Supplemental Restraint System Indicator Lights are not
> lit. Actually no lights on the dash are lit.
>
> Thus when the key is turned to the Start position (III) absolutely
> nothing happens.
>
> During this time my horn, radio as well as my fan/heater works.
>
> After up to 15 tries of turning the key to the start position in the
> ignition the dash lights will suddenly come on (i.e. Charging System
> Indicator Light, etc) and the car will then start no problem.
>
> Once the car is warmed up there is no problem trying to start the car
> again throughout the day.
>
> Could the contacts in the ignition switch be going bad? Could the cold
> weather worsen the problem due to parts contracting?
>
> At the same time once the car has started and I turn on my low beam
> headlights there can be up to a 20 second delay before they actually
> come on. Could this be a bad headlight combination switch? And are
> these two problems realted?
>
> History
>
> Battery was replaced in Sept 2005, was checked about a month ago and
> told it is okay, ie Cold Cranking Amps ok etc .
>
> Daytime running light module was replaced one year ago.
>
> Back plate of ignition switch replaced 2 years ago.
>
> Any ideas........Thanks ahead of time.



i suspect a battery drain. with all doors closed, accessories off,
remove the negative post and put it back, it there are sparks, then
something is draining the battery plus the cold temperature has
weakened it to the point it coulndt activate the main relay, thus
there's no lights coming on. try jump starting to confirm or eliminate
this cause

it could be the bad ignition switch that yields the same symptoms.
it's strange though, because most ign switches would quit when hot not
cold

bi241@scn.org wrote:

> it could be the bad ignition switch that yields the same symptoms.
> it's strange though, because most ign switches would quit when hot not
> cold
-----------------------------

It's the MAIN RELAY that most often gives trouble when HOT. The ignition
switch only gives trouble (engine dies) when you turn into the path of
an oncoming cement truck. Thus, the recall.

'Curly'

ok, i can now confirm it's the bad ignition switch (switch assy)

i just fixed a friend's Honda with similar symptoms: no warning lights
on, car started but died immediatedly when the key was released from
III.

i disconnected the battery, dosed the ignition key hole with WD-40
then put the key in and gave it a hefty work out
then reconnected the battery and tried to start, same shit, but i
noticed that the warning lights flashed as the key returned from II to
I

so i held the key between I and II and voila the warning lights were
on, as the car started i forced the key to that stupid positon and
luckily it held there and the motor kept running. let it run til it
reached normal temp.

turned it off and tried to work the alignment between the switch
cylinder and its assembly. and then magically everything fell back
into place. the car runs fine since.

but i told my friend to take off her key chain til she has the switch
replaced







On Oct 31, 9:11 pm, motsco_ <mots...@interbaun.com> wrote:
> bi...@scn.org wrote:
> > it could be the bad ignition switch that yields the same symptoms.
> > it's strange though, because most ign switches would quit when hot not
> > cold
>
> -----------------------------
>
> It's the MAIN RELAY that most often gives trouble when HOT. The ignition
> switch only gives trouble (engine dies) when you turn into the path of
> an oncoming cement truck. Thus, the recall.
>
> 'Curly'

bi241@scn.org wrote:
> ok, i can now confirm it's the bad ignition switch (switch assy)
>
> i just fixed a friend's Honda with similar symptoms: no warning lights
> on, car started but died immediatedly when the key was released from
> III.
>
> i disconnected the battery, dosed the ignition key hole with WD-40
> then put the key in and gave it a hefty work out
> then reconnected the battery and tried to start, same shit, but i
> noticed that the warning lights flashed as the key returned from II to
> I
>
> so i held the key between I and II and voila the warning lights were
> on, as the car started i forced the key to that stupid positon and
> luckily it held there and the motor kept running. let it run til it
> reached normal temp.
>
> turned it off and tried to work the alignment between the switch
> cylinder and its assembly. and then magically everything fell back
> into place. the car runs fine since.
>
> but i told my friend to take off her key chain til she has the switch
> replaced
---------------------

Lock-Ease is a good lube for ignition switch locks. I spray all five
locks on both of my Hondas twice a year. I got it at a locksmith shop
and they warned me to NEVER spray WD-40 in a lock unless it was an
emergency (like a seized lock).

'Curly'

motsco_ wrote:

> bi241@scn.org wrote:
>
>> ok, i can now confirm it's the bad ignition switch (switch assy)
>>
>> i just fixed a friend's Honda with similar symptoms: no warning lights
>> on, car started but died immediatedly when the key was released from
>> III.
>>
>> i disconnected the battery, dosed the ignition key hole with WD-40
>> then put the key in and gave it a hefty work out
>> then reconnected the battery and tried to start, same shit, but i
>> noticed that the warning lights flashed as the key returned from II to
>> I
>>
>> so i held the key between I and II and voila the warning lights were
>> on, as the car started i forced the key to that stupid positon and
>> luckily it held there and the motor kept running. let it run til it
>> reached normal temp.
>>
>> turned it off and tried to work the alignment between the switch
>> cylinder and its assembly. and then magically everything fell back
>> into place. the car runs fine since.
>>
>> but i told my friend to take off her key chain til she has the switch
>> replaced
>
> ---------------------
>
> Lock-Ease is a good lube for ignition switch locks. I spray all five
> locks on both of my Hondas twice a year. I got it at a locksmith shop
> and they warned me to NEVER spray WD-40 in a lock unless it was an
> emergency (like a seized lock).
>
> 'Curly'


I got pretty good results using sillycone spray on an old Ford LTD. I
drove the car for another 45K without incident then sold the car.

People should realize that WD-40 is a moisture dispersing agent and not
much else.

JT