Honda Car Forum

Hi,
I have a 97 accord. I have a bad front wheel stud. When they changed
my tires, I noticed that the studs are on a circular plate bolted to
the top of the rotor.

Easy enough...I can remove 4 bolts, then take the plate off with
studs. Since I have not done this before, I don't know if I need a
press to remove and install a new stud. Or can I pound them in and
out?

Anyone know this? Would be great to know before I try to tackle this!

Thanks!

-joe

g20zoom@gmail.com wrote in news:1187107569.086486.29750
@g12g2000prg.googlegroups.com:

> Hi,
> I have a 97 accord. I have a bad front wheel stud. When they changed
> my tires, I noticed that the studs are on a circular plate bolted to
> the top of the rotor.
>
> Easy enough...I can remove 4 bolts, then take the plate off with
> studs. Since I have not done this before, I don't know if I need a
> press to remove and install a new stud. Or can I pound them in and
> out?



I think you'll find the splash shield and steering knuckle are in the way
of pounding the studs out.

Get behind the knuckle with a strong light and see if the stud heads appear
to have room to exit to the inboard side. I don't think it's possible.

If you remove those four bolts you mention, all you will do is make the
rotor loose; the rotor is behind the hub, which is pressed on to the
steering knuckle. The hub needs to be pressed off the knuckle before the
rotor can be removed. The pressing part is NOT a DIY job.

I suspect you'll need to remove the steering knuckle from the car and have
a garage press everything apart so the stud can be changed.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

> I think you'll find the splash shield and steering knuckle are in the way
> of pounding the studs out.
>
> Get behind the knuckle with a strong light and see if the stud heads appear
> to have room to exit to the inboard side. I don't think it's possible.
>
> If you remove those four bolts you mention, all you will do is make the
> rotor loose; the rotor is behind the hub, which is pressed on to the
> steering knuckle. The hub needs to be pressed off the knuckle before the
> rotor can be removed. The pressing part is NOT a DIY job.

Well it really did seem like the plate with four 12 or 14mm head
bolts(not phillips screw type) holds the studs. On the other cars
I've had 91 civic, 99 accord, I think I know what you mean that there
are 4 phillip screws and the studs come from behind the rotor. On
this Accord though, it seems like the studs are up front on this
disc. Much different setup.

For what it's worth, shops are quoting $30 parts/labor, so I imagine
it's easier than those other hondas with a hub/knuckle deal.

>
> I suspect you'll need to remove the steering knuckle from the car and have
> a garage press everything apart so the stud can be changed.

Well...let me unbolt it tonite...and see what I find. I'll keep you
posted and maybe get a picture or something.

>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

g20zoom@gmail.com wrote in
news:1187115013.627792.261010@q3g2000prf.googlegro ups.com:

>> I think you'll find the splash shield and steering knuckle are in the
>> way of pounding the studs out.
>>
>> Get behind the knuckle with a strong light and see if the stud heads
>> appear to have room to exit to the inboard side. I don't think it's
>> possible.
>>
>> If you remove those four bolts you mention, all you will do is make
>> the rotor loose; the rotor is behind the hub, which is pressed on to
>> the steering knuckle. The hub needs to be pressed off the knuckle
>> before the rotor can be removed. The pressing part is NOT a DIY job.
>
> Well it really did seem like the plate with four 12 or 14mm head
> bolts(not phillips screw type) holds the studs.



It does. It's just that that "plate" is the hub, which is pressed on to
the knuckle along with the wheel bearing. You can't remove that "plate"
just by undoing the bolts you see there.



> On the other cars
> I've had 91 civic, 99 accord, I think I know what you mean that there
> are 4 phillip screws and the studs come from behind the rotor. On
> this Accord though, it seems like the studs are up front on this
> disc. Much different setup.
>
> For what it's worth, shops are quoting $30 parts/labor, so I imagine
> it's easier than those other hondas with a hub/knuckle deal.


Then maybe there IS room to hammer the stud out the back without
removing the hub. The rotor does have reliefs around the studs, so it
would only depend on there being clearance between the knuckle and the
hub so the studs can be withdrawn out the back.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

On Aug 14, 11:44 am, Tegger <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote:
> >> If you remove those four bolts you mention, all you will do is make
> >> the rotor loose; the rotor is behind the hub, which is pressed on to
> >> the steering knuckle. The hub needs to be pressed off the knuckle
> >> before the rotor can be removed. The pressing part is NOT a DIY job.
>
> > Well it really did seem like the plate with four 12 or 14mm head
> > bolts(not phillips screw type) holds the studs.
>
> It does. It's just that that "plate" is the hub, which is pressed on to
> the knuckle along with the wheel bearing. You can't remove that "plate"
> just by undoing the bolts you see there.

Ah...I catch you now. So the plate is press onto the hub. bummer.

> > For what it's worth, shops are quoting $30 parts/labor, so I imagine
> > it's easier than those other hondas with a hub/knuckle deal.
>
> Then maybe there IS room to hammer the stud out the back without
> removing the hub. The rotor does have reliefs around the studs, so it
> would only depend on there being clearance between the knuckle and the
> hub so the studs can be withdrawn out the back.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Thanks for that additional info. I guess I'll mirror behind the rotor
and see if I can see the stud holes and where the knuckle comes into
play. Then whack way. Assuming I get it out, how do I get the new
one squished into the plate? I think I read somewhere where I can put
an open ended lug nut and crank it down. I don't have one...but I can
pick one up.

-joe

if the stud you're changing is broken you can just pound it back, and it
will fall out... the interference with getting the new one in can be
fixed if you have a grinder... you take the new stud, and where the
head is on the top of it, you just grind one side to a flat edge, so
when you're looking at it, it looks kinda like a "D" but don't grind
down into the shaft of the stud...

When you go to put the ground down one back in, just make sure that the
ground part is facing the inside of the assembly, and push it straight
in..

As far as drawing them in, yes, you can do it with an open ended lug,
BUT make sure you're not dragging the threads of the stud in the hole,
as this will crush them, and they're not nearly as easy to get out when
they're not broken.

also, if you're replacing more than one, drive your car at a low-normal
speed and take lots of turns for about 15-20 mins, then retighten all
the lugs on that wheel... this will ensure proper seating of the studs.


--
Dr0pZ0n3
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g20zoom@gmail.com wrote in
news:1187119618.777983.198440@l22g2000prc.googlegr oups.com:

> On Aug 14, 11:44 am, Tegger <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>> >> If you remove those four bolts you mention, all you will do is
>> >> make the rotor loose; the rotor is behind the hub, which is
>> >> pressed on to the steering knuckle. The hub needs to be pressed
>> >> off the knuckle before the rotor can be removed. The pressing part
>> >> is NOT a DIY job.
>>
>> > Well it really did seem like the plate with four 12 or 14mm head
>> > bolts(not phillips screw type) holds the studs.
>>
>> It does. It's just that that "plate" is the hub, which is pressed on
>> to the knuckle along with the wheel bearing. You can't remove that
>> "plate" just by undoing the bolts you see there.
>
> Ah...I catch you now. So the plate is press onto the hub. bummer.



That "plate" IS the hub.

And I see someone called "g20zoom" has chimed in, speaking from practical
experience. What he says makes sense.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

g20zoom@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi,
> I have a 97 accord. I have a bad front wheel stud. When they changed
> my tires, I noticed that the studs are on a circular plate bolted to
> the top of the rotor.
>
> Easy enough...I can remove 4 bolts, then take the plate off with
> studs. Since I have not done this before, I don't know if I need a
> press to remove and install a new stud. Or can I pound them in and
> out?
>
> Anyone know this? Would be great to know before I try to tackle this!
>
> Thanks!
>
> -joe
>

the "official" method is remove the knuckle, press out the hub center,
press out the stud, replace stud and reassemble. but you can also do it
by cutting away part of the splash guard to get access. but that's a
cheap and dirty fix. you can probably buy a whole new knuckle with hub
from a junk yard for less than it'll cost you to mess about like that.

whatever you do though, do NOT pound on the hub - you'll damage the
bearings.

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in news:T5KdnQs0hqIq-
l_bnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@speakeasy.net:


>
> whatever you do though, do NOT pound on the hub - you'll damage the
> bearings.
>


In the case of removing old studs, pounding is OK. They're not in there
/that/ tightly. Takes a hell of a whack to damage wheel bearings.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in news:T5KdnQs0hqIq-
> l_bnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
>
>
>> whatever you do though, do NOT pound on the hub - you'll damage the
>> bearings.
>>
>
>
> In the case of removing old studs, pounding is OK. They're not in there
> /that/ tightly. Takes a hell of a whack to damage wheel bearings.
>

via the wheel/tire, yes. but not with a hammer direct to the hub. it's
one of the commonest bearing failure modes these days since seals, lube
and bearing quality is so good.