Honda Car Forum

if you what to DIY listen to dropzone he's done it & so have i or take
it to shop to have it pressed off & on


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inafogg
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Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in
news:Xns998CE12C44601tegger@207.14.116.130:

> And I see someone called "g20zoom" has chimed in, speaking from
> practical experience. What he says makes sense.
>
>
>

Dr0pZ0n3 chimed in, not g20zoom! I was looking at the wrong post!

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Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

heh, it happens... at least you realised it tho @ tegger :P

i was kinda wondering wtf you were talking about... cuz g20zoom is the
threadstarter and all... why would he have sensible knowledge of his
own problem... ya know? lol no matter tho.


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Dr0pZ0n3
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On Aug 14, 7:40 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:

> the "official" method is remove the knuckle, press out the hub center,
> press out the stud, replace stud and reassemble. but you can also do it
> by cutting away part of the splash guard to get access. but that's a
> cheap and dirty fix. you can probably buy a whole new knuckle with hub
> from a junk yard for less than it'll cost you to mess about like that.
>
> whatever you do though, do NOT pound on the hub - you'll damage the
> bearings.- Hide quoted text -

Hey, check out this tool!!!!!
http://www.try-intools.com/video.html
http://www.try-intools.com/instruct.html

or search for "accord hub remover" on ebay. Runs about $150 shipped.
A tad expensive for my one time job, but someone may find it useful if
it works. If someone has tried it, let us know!

-joe

Thanks for everyone's help!

Here's what I did:
1. unbolt wheel - that was fine, but my steel wheel was stuck to the
hub. What a PITA! Never had this happen before...i wacked the wheel
a bunch of times from behind with a mallet...
and did some prying, finally came off
2. remove brake caliper! I figured this out later...for a while
there, I couldn't figure after whacking the wheel stud, how I would
remove it. After undoing both caliper bolts, that left a big open
space for the stud to fall out. Plenty of room.
3. turn hub to the brake opening and hammer out stud.
4. push new stud in with a little oil. tap in with a punch to get it
started.
5. used a open ended lug and cranked it down to pull stud through hub
plate by hand, then with an impact gun

Well...it's not that hard after the fact, but i finally figured out I
needed step 2. Duh! I did have to pound the heck out of the wheel
stud, a little uncomfortable for the wheel bearing but I had to do
it. I did put some oil at the base of it, but maybe I didn't wait
long enough. After a few shots of oil....a few more minutes of
tapping the stud in different directions, then hitting the wheel stud
straight on, it started to move out. Part of the problem was that
this side previously had a caliper lock up, so the previous owner said
the wheel was smoking. The extra heat and rust probably seized it up
a bit more than normal.

out with the old, in with the new. No need to cut the new one in a D
shape. Plenty of room where the brake caliper was.
Was it worth the $30??? no way!! but at least it's done!

btw...and impact gun was needed for the brake bolts. When some shop
did the brake caliper, they cranked down the brake mounting bolts!!

those bolts should be cranked... not necessarily with an impact, but
cranked none-the-less. I think the torque spec is something like
100-115 lb/ft^2


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Dr0pZ0n3
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Dr0pZ0n3 wrote:
> those bolts should be cranked... not necessarily with an impact, but
> cranked none-the-less. I think the torque spec is something like
> 100-115 lb/ft^2
>
>

force per area is the unit of pressure. torque is force per distance,
not area. torque is typically N.m or ft.lbs, so no divisor and no
"squared".

and to be clear, honda lug nuts are typically torqued to 80 ft.lbs or
110 N.m.

heh... read a torque wrench.. it's measured in ft.lbs... which is
"pounds per square foot." you're torquing to a given pressure. the
purpose of torquing a nut and bolt assembly is to allow frictional
forces to maintain a certain pressure over a given AREA of the
contacted surfaces... in other words, when you torque the nut and bolt
to 80 lb.ft., you're torquing them to 80 lbs per Ft^2 of contact
surface area... Don't try to school me.. I'm here for a reason.

and he wasn't talking about the lugnuts... he was talking about the
caliper retainer to hub mount bolts.


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Dr0pZ0n3 wrote:
> heh... read a torque wrench.. it's measured in ft.lbs... which is
> "pounds per square foot." you're torquing to a given pressure. the
> purpose of torquing a nut and bolt assembly is to allow frictional
> forces to maintain a certain pressure over a given AREA of the
> contacted surfaces... in other words, when you torque the nut and bolt
> to 80 lb.ft., you're torquing them to 80 lbs per Ft^2 of contact
> surface area... Don't try to school me.. I'm here for a reason.
>
> and he wasn't talking about the lugnuts... he was talking about the
> caliper retainer to hub mount bolts.
>
>
dude, ft.lbs are not lbs/ft^2.

ft^2 is area. and you're dividing to get pressure.

with torque, there's only one ft, and it's times, not divide.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque

perhaps the confusion is that when you lean on that wrench, you're
exerting force, not pressure.

On Aug 18, 2:00 pm, Dr0pZ0n3 <Dr0pZ0n3.2vj...@no-mx.nodomain.com>
wrote:
> those bolts should be cranked... not necessarily with an impact, but
> cranked none-the-less. I think the torque spec is something like
> 100-115 lb/ft^2
>
> --
> Dr0pZ0n3

I know....but i was just trying to draw the stud into the plate. It
was turning when I tried to wrench it in with an open ended lug, so
some light impact action did the trick without holding anything else.

btw, is there a reason why some 3 leg puller won't work on that
circular plate pressed on the wheel hub?

-j