Honda Car Forum

Tegger wrote:

> Grumpy AuContraire <Grumpy@ExtraGrumpyville.com> wrote in news:XuWmi.172669
> $Sa4.145889@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
>
>
>>
>>Tegger wrote:
>>
>>
>>>You always wanted to know, didn't you? I know I did.
>>>
>>>http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html
>>>
>>
>>
>>So now you have two working torque wrenches, eh?
>>
>
>
>
> You might say that, yes.
>
> Too bad one of them is now random...
>


Just take it back and demand justice!

Remember, the whiny wheel sometimes gets the grease...

<G>

JT

Tegger wrote:

> Joe LaVigne <jlavigne@hits-buffalo.com> wrote in
> news:f7hibi$t47$3@aioe.org:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>
>>> You always wanted to know, didn't you? I know I did.
>>>
>>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html
>>>
>>
>> Doesn't the craftsman guarantee apply to torque wrenches? I was under
>> the impression that it applied to every craftsman hand tool, and
>> therefore, your replacement should have been free...
>
>
>
> That was the *first* thing I checked. Torque wrenches are NOT included in
> that warranty!

Well that just sucks!

Grumpy AuContraire wrote:

> Remember, the whiny wheel sometimes gets the grease...
>
> <G>

A whiny wheel usually means a bad wheel bearing

On Jul 16, 9:02 pm, Tegger <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote:
> You always wanted to know, didn't you? I know I did.
>
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

I made a lot of half-assed attempts to setup a cheap calibration
checker for my torque wrench using a gallon of water for a weight and
a measured lever arm, attached to a bolt that i could stick in a
socket attached to the wrench, pivoted relatively freely on something,
so I could see with a given torque load, at what setting the wrench
started with the click. Never got it working, though. But doesn't it
seem like something you could do at home easily, if you were less of a
klutz than I?

z <gzuckier@snail-mail.net> wrote in news:1184877067.710654.26610
@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

> On Jul 16, 9:02 pm, Tegger <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>> You always wanted to know, didn't you? I know I did.
>>
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> I made a lot of half-assed attempts to setup a cheap calibration
> checker for my torque wrench using a gallon of water for a weight and
> a measured lever arm, attached to a bolt that i could stick in a
> socket attached to the wrench, pivoted relatively freely on something,
> so I could see with a given torque load, at what setting the wrench
> started with the click. Never got it working, though. But doesn't it
> seem like something you could do at home easily, if you were less of a
> klutz than I?
>
>


That's an interesting idea (I mean making the comparison, not you being
a klutz).

I had a bit of a think about it, and it really seems quite simple:
Immobilize one wrench in such a way as not to interfere with its action,
then hook another one up to it via the usual square drive.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...omparing_1.jpg
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...omparing_2.jpg

Each wrench has a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, then a 10mm socket, then a
section of 10mmm Allen rod connects the two.

I've barely got the click one clamped in, just tight enough to keep it
from falling through the vise. A quick measurement with a micrometer
shows no apparent distortion of the tube. Then I placed my hand on the
square drive end of the beam-type, just like you would if tightening a
bolt with extensions on the torque wrench.

Remember that the click-type's mechanism is internal to the tube. So
long as I do not interfere with the head's pivot pin or the tilt
mechanism inside, the readings should be unaffected by the vise.

I had the click-type set to only 30 ft lbs, so as to minimize any
malevolent forces should something slip.

The click-type wrench clicked as the beam type approached 30 lbs, but it
always clicked a couple of pounds short of 30 on the beam's reading.
Tolerance on the click-type is given as 4% up or down, so theoretically
a reading of 30 could actually mean anywhere between 28.8 to 31.2. And
heaven only knows what the tolerance is on my 35 year-old beam-type.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

z <gzuckier@snail-mail.net> wrote in news:1184877067.710654.26610
@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

> On Jul 16, 9:02 pm, Tegger <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>> You always wanted to know, didn't you? I know I did.
>>
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> I made a lot of half-assed attempts to setup a cheap calibration
> checker for my torque wrench using a gallon of water for a weight and
> a measured lever arm, attached to a bolt that i could stick in a
> socket attached to the wrench, pivoted relatively freely on something,
> so I could see with a given torque load, at what setting the wrench
> started with the click. Never got it working, though. But doesn't it
> seem like something you could do at home easily, if you were less of a
> klutz than I?
>



Huh. I sent a reply a couple of hours ago but it foes not seem to have
shown up anywhere. Here it is again:

That's an interesting idea (I mean making the comparison, not you being
a klutz).

I had a bit of a think about it, and it really seems quite simple:
Immobilize one wrench in such a way as not to interfere with its action,
then hook another one up to it via the usual square drive.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...omparing_1.jpg
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/...omparing_2.jpg

Each wrench has a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, then a 10mm socket, then a
section of 10mmm Allen rod connects the two.

I've barely got the click one clamped in, just tight enough to keep it
from falling through the vise. A quick measurement with a micrometer
shows no apparent distortion of the tube. Then I placed my hand on the
square drive end of the beam-type, just like you would if tightening a
bolt with extensions on the torque wrench.

Remember that the click-type's mechanism is internal to the tube. So
long as I do not interfere with the head's pivot pin or the tilt
mechanism inside, the readings should be unaffected by the vise.

I had the click-type set to only 30 ft lbs, so as to minimize any
malevolent forces should something slip.

The click-type wrench clicked as the beam type approached 30 lbs, but it
always clicked a couple of pounds short of 30 on the beam's reading.
Tolerance on the click-type is given as 4% up or down, so theoretically
a reading of 30 could actually mean anywhere between 28.8 to 31.2. And
heaven only knows what the tolerance is on my 35 year-old beam-type.





--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

I have a question. How important is accuracy on a Torque Wrench? I mean,
consistency seems more important to me. If you are torqueing your lug nuts
to 85 lbs, and the wrench is off a little, you still get all the lugs
torqued to an even setting that keeps you from warping rotors. I guess on
smaller items you may want to be a little more precise. I have a small
Husky wrench that does inch lbs.

I have a couple of torque wrenches. We took a socket and hooked them
together once and set them to the same setting. Then we put pressure on
them and they both clicked at almost the same time. So they are "close" for
sure.

I'l love to have a Snap-on model. I'm a real tool whore :-)

G-Man

I have a question. How important is accuracy on a Torque Wrench? I mean,
consistency seems more important to me. If you are torqueing your lug nuts
to 85 lbs, and the wrench is off a little, you still get all the lugs
torqued to an even setting that keeps you from warping rotors. I guess on
smaller items you may want to be a little more precise. I have a small
Husky wrench that does inch lbs.

I have a couple of torque wrenches. We took a socket and hooked them
together once and set them to the same setting. Then we put pressure on
them and they both clicked at almost the same time. So they are "close" for
sure.

I'd love to have a Snap-on model. I'm a real tool whore :-)

G-Man

"G-Man" <g_foreman@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:13a1hgva41n8857@news.supernews.com:

> I have a question. How important is accuracy on a Torque Wrench?



Not *that* important, but...it depends on the application.

Most automotive fasteners of any importance have substantial built-in
safety factors. Some do not, such as cam bearing cap bolts. Those only
torque to seven foot pounds, a lot lower than many people are used to
working with. Overtorque those enough and big trouble can surface.


> I mean, consistency seems more important to me.


It is. Especially with stuff like head gaskets.



> If you are torqueing
> your lug nuts to 85 lbs, and the wrench is off a little, you still get
> all the lugs torqued to an even setting that keeps you from warping
> rotors.



Uneven nut torque is not nearly as significant a factor for brake
vibration as some other things.



> I guess on smaller items you may want to be a little more
> precise.



A LOT more precise. The smaller, the more fragile the threads.



> I have a small Husky wrench that does inch lbs.
>
> I have a couple of torque wrenches. We took a socket and hooked them
> together once and set them to the same setting. Then we put pressure
> on them and they both clicked at almost the same time. So they are
> "close" for sure.
>
> I'l love to have a Snap-on model. I'm a real tool whore :-)
>


I own just one Snap-On tool, a 12mm six point combo wrench. Let me tell
you, after spending $35 on it, that thing gets the goose-down treatment.

I just like doing work properly. Tighten enough bolts and you eventually
acquire a "feel" for the "right" torque. This works in most cases, and
is necessary in situations where you have no room for the bulk of a
torque wrench. For the rest, I use the torque wrench.

I have neither broken a bolt nor had one come loose on me, since about
1985.

I did overtighten the auto tranny oil pan drain bolt (a very small bolt)
on my wife's '99 Tercel two years ago. The threads on the bolt shifted,
resulting in the need to replace the bolt. Luckily, the bolt threads
were softer than the pan threads, so a new bolt was all that was
required. I have been much more careful since.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Joe LaVigne <jlavigne@hits-buffalo.com> wrote in
news:f7hibi$t47$3@aioe.org:

> Tegger wrote:
>
>> You always wanted to know, didn't you? I know I did.
>>
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html
>>
>
> Doesn't the craftsman guarantee apply to torque wrenches? I was under
> the impression that it applied to every craftsman hand tool, and
> therefore, your replacement should have been free...
>
> Otherwise, cool information!
>

No, it doesn't apply to torque wrenches. I asked when my took a tumble
down a flight of stairs (in the packaging). But, it's still close to my
other one, so it's probably okay.