Honda Car Forum

Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about a
30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
then warp and shake the wheel.

I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to be
replaced.

I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
but I'm no mechanic.

Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?

I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
Honda's.

-- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from the
highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

85miles wrote:
> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about a
> 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
> my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
> front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
> then warp and shake the wheel.
>
> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to be
> replaced.
>
> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
> but I'm no mechanic.
>
> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
>
> I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
> Honda's.
>
> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from the
> highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
> the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
>
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke. collapsed
brake line is also utter rubbish.

1. get the wheel balanced properly.
2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings.
3. ensure shock is not blown.
4. service brakes using honda parts.
5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.

On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> 85miles wrote:
> > Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
> > amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about a
> > 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
> > my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
> > front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
> > then warp and shake the wheel.
>
> > I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to be
> > replaced.
>
> > I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
> > but I'm no mechanic.
>
> > Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
>
> > I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
> > Honda's.
>
> > -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from the
> > highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
> > the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
>
> > Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke. collapsed
> brake line is also utter rubbish.
>
> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings.
> 3. ensure shock is not blown.
> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.

The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
red.. smoking... etc.
When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
worsens the longer I drive.

85miles wrote:
> On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>> 85miles wrote:
>>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
>>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about a
>>> 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
>>> my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
>>> front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
>>> then warp and shake the wheel.
>>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to be
>>> replaced.
>>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
>>> but I'm no mechanic.
>>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
>>> I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
>>> Honda's.
>>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from the
>>> highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
>>> the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
>>> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
>> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke. collapsed
>> brake line is also utter rubbish.
>>
>> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
>> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings.
>> 3. ensure shock is not blown.
>> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
>> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>
> The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
> red.. smoking... etc.
> When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
> worsens the longer I drive.
>

then why are you driving it???

jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
probably have paid for the repair already!

1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
replace the whole thing.
2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.

you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.

bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.

On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> 85miles wrote:
> > On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> >> 85miles wrote:
> >>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
> >>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about a
> >>> 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
> >>> my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
> >>> front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
> >>> then warp and shake the wheel.
> >>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to be
> >>> replaced.
> >>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
> >>> but I'm no mechanic.
> >>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
> >>> I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
> >>> Honda's.
> >>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from the
> >>> highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
> >>> the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
> >>> Any help is greatly appreciated.
> >> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
> >> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke. collapsed
> >> brake line is also utter rubbish.
>
> >> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
> >> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings.
> >> 3. ensure shock is not blown.
> >> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
> >> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>
> > The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
> > red.. smoking... etc.
> > When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
> > worsens the longer I drive.
>
> then why are you driving it???
>
> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
> probably have paid for the repair already!
>
> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
> replace the whole thing.
> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>
> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>
> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.

This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a
junk part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've
noticed some pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is
totally messed... It does slowly release, seems okay on the highway,
but in town, constantly braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor.
Im hoping to have this fixed next week. How much labor am I looking
at? If its a pretty easy job I may try and do it myself.

85miles wrote:
> On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>> 85miles wrote:
>>> On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>>>> 85miles wrote:
>>>>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
>>>>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about a
>>>>> 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
>>>>> my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
>>>>> front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
>>>>> then warp and shake the wheel.
>>>>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to be
>>>>> replaced.
>>>>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
>>>>> but I'm no mechanic.
>>>>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
>>>>> I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
>>>>> Honda's.
>>>>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from the
>>>>> highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
>>>>> the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
>>>>> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>>>> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
>>>> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke. collapsed
>>>> brake line is also utter rubbish.
>>>> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
>>>> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings.
>>>> 3. ensure shock is not blown.
>>>> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
>>>> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>>> The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
>>> red.. smoking... etc.
>>> When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
>>> worsens the longer I drive.
>> then why are you driving it???
>>
>> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
>> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
>> probably have paid for the repair already!
>>
>> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
>> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
>> replace the whole thing.
>> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>>
>> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
>> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>>
>> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
>> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
>> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
>> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.
>
> This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a
> junk part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've
> noticed some pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is
> totally messed... It does slowly release, seems okay on the highway,
> but in town, constantly braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor.
> Im hoping to have this fixed next week. How much labor am I looking
> at? If its a pretty easy job I may try and do it myself.
>
you definitely need to know what you're doing before undertaking work
like this. at the least, go to tegger.com and buy the honda service
manual from helminc.com.

85miles <85miles@gmail.com> wrote in
news:1183777478.253696.108660@r34g2000hsd.googlegr oups.com:


>
> This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a
> junk part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've
> noticed some pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is
> totally messed... It does slowly release, seems okay on the highway,
> but in town, constantly braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor.
> Im hoping to have this fixed next week. How much labor am I looking
> at? If its a pretty easy job I may try and do it myself.
>


Calipers ought to be replaced in axle pairs. Replacing only one is a
guarantee of pulling.

A caliper sticking like that is usually due to the piston mot moving
freely in its bore.

You can check like this:
1) Remove caliper from mount bracket;
2) Hold it, or hang it up so it doesn't dangle from the hydraulic hose;
3) Have a helper step on the brake pedal while you watch the piston;
4) If car is less than five years old, pedal may be pressed to the
floor. If car is more than five years old, press pedal only as far as it
does in normal usage;
5) Piston should move out of bore about 1/16" or 1/8" or so when pedal
is pressed;
6) When pedal is released, piston should move BACK IN slightly. Not
much, but enough to notice.

If the piston does NOT move back in -- however little -- then the
caliper was badly built or the piston is gummed up/rusted.

If the piston is sticking but is not gummed up, you can lubricate the
piston with Sil-Glyde or other silicone grease. Ask me how.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

On Jul 6, 1:12 pm, 85miles <85mi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about a
> 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
> my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
> front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
> then warp and shake the wheel.
>
> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to be
> replaced.
>
> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
> but I'm no mechanic.
>
> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
>
> I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
> Honda's.
>
> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from the
> highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
> the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
>
> Any help is greatly appreciated.

I had the same problem. The Honda mechanic properly diagnosed the
problem as being the rack and pinion was loose. Luckily it was
adjustable, and he straightened it out. Now no more shaking. The front
left brake was engaged everytime the rack and pinion steering was
vibrating. Problem solved!

I've read through this thread and apart from the idea about the rack and
pinion which I have no experience with as a possible cause, I would share an
experience I had. I note in this post you've had a new caliper installed
too. This is what happened to me too. After a new caliper and rotor
installation, the brake was dragging and the wheel was getting very hot
after a drive and burned out the pads rapidly (obviously dragging) -
replaced the caliper, pads, rotor - same thing.... turned out, the mechanic
at the second garage solved it: it was indeed a collapsed hose causing it -
the first mechanic (dealer) when replacing the first caliper was lazy and
rather than letting fluid drip on the garage floor or into a can, squeezed
off the hose with vicegrips and broke the inner tubing causing a flap which
allowed fluid to flow one way when brakes were applied but acted like a
valve stopping fluid from releasing from the caliper. We could see the teeth
marks of the vice grips on the hose. Replaced the hose and everything was
fine.

"85miles" <85miles@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1183777478.253696.108660@r34g2000hsd.googlegr oups.com...
> On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>> 85miles wrote:
>> > On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>> >> 85miles wrote:
>> >>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
>> >>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about
>> >>> a
>> >>> 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
>> >>> my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
>> >>> front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
>> >>> then warp and shake the wheel.
>> >>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to
>> >>> be
>> >>> replaced.
>> >>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
>> >>> but I'm no mechanic.
>> >>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
>> >>> I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
>> >>> Honda's.
>> >>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from
>> >>> the
>> >>> highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
>> >>> the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
>> >>> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>> >> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
>> >> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke.
>> >> collapsed
>> >> brake line is also utter rubbish.
>>
>> >> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
>> >> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings.
>> >> 3. ensure shock is not blown.
>> >> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
>> >> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>>
>> > The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
>> > red.. smoking... etc.
>> > When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
>> > worsens the longer I drive.
>>
>> then why are you driving it???
>>
>> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
>> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
>> probably have paid for the repair already!
>>
>> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
>> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
>> replace the whole thing.
>> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>>
>> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
>> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>>
>> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
>> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
>> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
>> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.
>
> This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a
> junk part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've
> noticed some pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is
> totally messed... It does slowly release, seems okay on the highway,
> but in town, constantly braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor.
> Im hoping to have this fixed next week. How much labor am I looking
> at? If its a pretty easy job I may try and do it myself.
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Dave wrote:
> "85miles" <85miles@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1183777478.253696.108660@r34g2000hsd.googlegr oups.com...
>> On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>>> 85miles wrote:
>>>> On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>>>>> 85miles wrote:
>>>>>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
>>>>>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it was
>>>>>> my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the left
>>>>>> front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat and
>>>>>> then warp and shake the wheel.
>>>>>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to
>>>>>> be
>>>>>> replaced.
>>>>>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to me,
>>>>>> but I'm no mechanic.
>>>>>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this?
>>>>>> I really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
>>>>>> Honda's.
>>>>>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk almost to
>>>>>> the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my brake lines?
>>>>>> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
>>>>> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke.
>>>>> collapsed
>>>>> brake line is also utter rubbish.
>>>>> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
>>>>> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings.
>>>>> 3. ensure shock is not blown.
>>>>> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
>>>>> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>>>> The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
>>>> red.. smoking... etc.
>>>> When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
>>>> worsens the longer I drive.
>>> then why are you driving it???
>>>
>>> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
>>> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
>>> probably have paid for the repair already!
>>>
>>> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
>>> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
>>> replace the whole thing.
>>> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>>>
>>> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
>>> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>>>
>>> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
>>> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
>>> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
>>> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.
>> This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a
>> junk part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've
>> noticed some pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is
>> totally messed... It does slowly release, seems okay on the highway,
>> but in town, constantly braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor.
>> Im hoping to have this fixed next week. How much labor am I looking
>> at? If its a pretty easy job I may try and do it myself.
>>
>
>
> I've read through this thread and apart from the idea about the rack and
> pinion which I have no experience with as a possible cause, I would share an
> experience I had. I note in this post you've had a new caliper installed
> too. This is what happened to me too. After a new caliper and rotor
> installation, the brake was dragging and the wheel was getting very hot
> after a drive and burned out the pads rapidly (obviously dragging) -
> replaced the caliper, pads, rotor - same thing.... turned out, the mechanic
> at the second garage solved it: it was indeed a collapsed hose causing it -
> the first mechanic (dealer) when replacing the first caliper was lazy and
> rather than letting fluid drip on the garage floor or into a can, squeezed
> off the hose with vicegrips and broke the inner tubing causing a flap which
> allowed fluid to flow one way when brakes were applied but acted like a
> valve stopping fluid from releasing from the caliper. We could see the teeth
> marks of the vice grips on the hose. Replaced the hose and everything was
> fine.

i don't believe that. cut open some brake hose and examine its
construction - there's no mechanism by which that can happen. the
rubber can't cold-weld to itself, the reinforcement cords are fiber, not
metal - it all just springs back into shape. the only possible way to
cause an internal "flap" would be if the interior lining ruptured, and
if that happened, the hose would balloon [and quickly burst] on
hydraulic pressure, not retain pressure sufficient to lock a caliper.

i might add, i've used hose pinch-off when servicing brakes, both
commercial and private vehicles, for more than 20 years - without
problem. it's standard procedure to avoid total hydraulic fluid loss
and subsequent potential airlocks and bleeding problems. not to mention
a messy workshop. you're supposed to use a proper clamp, not vice-grips
obviously, but as i say, it's standard service procedure. among those
with professional training at any rate.

what i /have/ seen is crappy brake pads that don't fit well binding in
calipers, misassembled springs, jammed piston seals, and old calipers
with internal rust externally painted to look "reconditioned". and
plain old wrong-size pistons getting stuck. i've also seen a new
caliper /look/ like it's jammed because if only one is replaced and the
old one isn't operating properly, the new caliper is doing all the work,
hence it overheats.