Honda Car Forum

On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 19:52:43 -0700, jim beam wrote:

>> The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing red..
>> smoking... etc.
>> When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
>> worsens the longer I drive.
>>
>>
> then why are you driving it???
>
> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being f-ing
> dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
> probably have paid for the repair already!
>
> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply replace
> the whole thing.
> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.


The Master Cylinder may not be faulty.

My bet is, since his rotor is glowing red, that he's boiling the brake
fluid to the point of vaporization, and when he hits the pedal, there's no
*fluid* left in the line/caliper.

Fix/replace the caliper, and take it for a test drive.
And get new rotors and pads while yo9ur at it. No sense using something
that's been abused so badly.

On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 20:04:38 -0700, 85miles wrote:

> On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>> 85miles wrote:
>> > On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>> >> 85miles wrote:
>> >>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
>> >>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about
>> >>> a 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it
>> >>> was my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the
>> >>> left front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat
>> >>> and then warp and shake the wheel.
>> >>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to
>> >>> be replaced.
>> >>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to
>> >>> me, but I'm no mechanic.
>> >>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this? I
>> >>> really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
>> >>> Honda's.
>> >>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from
>> >>> the highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk
>> >>> almost to the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my
>> >>> brake lines? Any help is greatly appreciated.
>> >> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
>> >> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke.
>> >> collapsed brake line is also utter rubbish.
>>
>> >> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
>> >> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings. 3. ensure shock is
>> >> not blown.
>> >> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
>> >> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>>
>> > The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
>> > red.. smoking... etc.
>> > When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
>> > worsens the longer I drive.
>>
>> then why are you driving it???
>>
>> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
>> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
>> probably have paid for the repair already!
>>
>> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
>> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
>> replace the whole thing.
>> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>>
>> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
>> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>>
>> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
>> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
>> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
>> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.
>
> This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a junk
> part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've noticed some
> pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is totally messed... It
> does slowly release, seems okay on the highway, but in town, constantly
> braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor. Im hoping to have this fixed
> next week. How much labor am I looking at? If its a pretty easy job I
> may try and do it myself.


Can you do any work yourself?
If so, raise the car on that side and put it on a stand, remove the wheel
and LOOK at the caliper. If you can't see anything, then investigate.

Unfortunately, since you don't *TELL* us what the car is, I'm guessing a
'93 Accord, just because. This procedure is good for '86-95:

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

Check out figures 3 and 4 for caliper removal. There is a bolt with a
slide at the bottom, and a pin with a slide at the top.

My bet is the slide has seized in it's bore and is locking the caliper.
I'm surprised you don't have a smoke show to boot!

If you're adventurous, you can remove the slider from the caliper (if it
hasn't *welded* itself in there by now), remove the rubber boot, get some
emery cloth and clean the rust from the bore until it slides readily but
with a small amount of resistance, grease it and put it back together.

I had the same problem with a Supra 2 years ago, and 25,000 miles later
I'm still on the same caliper...

On Jul 7, 1:42 pm, Hachiroku <Tru...@AE86.gts> wrote:
> On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 20:04:38 -0700, 85miles wrote:
> > On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> >> 85miles wrote:
> >> > On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> >> >> 85miles wrote:
> >> >>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
> >> >>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about
> >> >>> a 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it
> >> >>> was my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the
> >> >>> left front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat
> >> >>> and then warp and shake the wheel.
> >> >>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to
> >> >>> be replaced.
> >> >>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to
> >> >>> me, but I'm no mechanic.
> >> >>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this? I
> >> >>> really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
> >> >>> Honda's.
> >> >>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from
> >> >>> the highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk
> >> >>> almost to the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my
> >> >>> brake lines? Any help is greatly appreciated.
> >> >> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
> >> >> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke.
> >> >> collapsed brake line is also utter rubbish.
>
> >> >> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
> >> >> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings. 3. ensure shock is
> >> >> not blown.
> >> >> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
> >> >> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>
> >> > The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
> >> > red.. smoking... etc.
> >> > When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
> >> > worsens the longer I drive.
>
> >> then why are you driving it???
>
> >> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
> >> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
> >> probably have paid for the repair already!
>
> >> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
> >> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
> >> replace the whole thing.
> >> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>
> >> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
> >> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>
> >> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
> >> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
> >> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
> >> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.
>
> > This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a junk
> > part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've noticed some
> > pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is totally messed... It
> > does slowly release, seems okay on the highway, but in town, constantly
> > braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor. Im hoping to have this fixed
> > next week. How much labor am I looking at? If its a pretty easy job I
> > may try and do it myself.
>
> Can you do any work yourself?
> If so, raise the car on that side and put it on a stand, remove the wheel
> and LOOK at the caliper. If you can't see anything, then investigate.
>
> Unfortunately, since you don't *TELL* us what the car is, I'm guessing a
> '93 Accord, just because. This procedure is good for '86-95:
>
> http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...f1/0900823d800...
>
> Check out figures 3 and 4 for caliper removal. There is a bolt with a
> slide at the bottom, and a pin with a slide at the top.
>
> My bet is the slide has seized in it's bore and is locking the caliper.
> I'm surprised you don't have a smoke show to boot!
>
> If you're adventurous, you can remove the slider from the caliper (if it
> hasn't *welded* itself in there by now), remove the rubber boot, get some
> emery cloth and clean the rust from the bore until it slides readily but
> with a small amount of resistance, grease it and put it back together.
>
> I had the same problem with a Supra 2 years ago, and 25,000 miles later
> I'm still on the same caliper...

Turned out to be just a pinched hose. One of the clamps which holds
the hose tight to the Shock was pinching the hose too tight,
preventing brake fluid from escaping. I replaced the brake pads and
way to go.

I still have a slight shake when braking though, this is likely from
the rotor warping a little from the intense heat when the caliper was
sticking.

On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 12:32:05 -0700, 85miles wrote:

>> If you're adventurous, you can remove the slider from the caliper (if it
>> hasn't *welded* itself in there by now), remove the rubber boot, get
>> some emery cloth and clean the rust from the bore until it slides
>> readily but with a small amount of resistance, grease it and put it back
>> together.
>>
>> I had the same problem with a Supra 2 years ago, and 25,000 miles later
>> I'm still on the same caliper...
>
> Turned out to be just a pinched hose. One of the clamps which holds the
> hose tight to the Shock was pinching the hose too tight, preventing brake
> fluid from escaping. I replaced the brake pads and way to go.
>
> I still have a slight shake when braking though, this is likely from the
> rotor warping a little from the intense heat when the caliper was
> sticking.


Wow! Easy fix!

Now, just replace the rotor and you should be good!

However, I did have a rotor warp on a Celica, and for some odd reason, the
shuddering went away about 6 weeks later...

85miles wrote:
> On Jul 7, 1:42 pm, Hachiroku <Tru...@AE86.gts> wrote:
>> On Fri, 06 Jul 2007 20:04:38 -0700, 85miles wrote:
>>> On Jul 7, 12:52 am, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>>>> 85miles wrote:
>>>>> On Jul 6, 6:31 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
>>>>>> 85miles wrote:
>>>>>>> Lately when driving down the highway I been noticing a significant
>>>>>>> amount of wheel shake. This happens about 1 or 2 times during about
>>>>>>> a 30 minute trip, lasting about 5 minutes each time. I thought it
>>>>>>> was my bushings or tie rod, but turned out to be my brake on the
>>>>>>> left front was not releasing properly, causing my rotor to overheat
>>>>>>> and then warp and shake the wheel.
>>>>>>> I heard it could be a Collapsed brake hose, or the caliper needs to
>>>>>>> be replaced.
>>>>>>> I looked at it myself and felt the hoses, they seem to be fine to
>>>>>>> me, but I'm no mechanic.
>>>>>>> Has anyone had a similar problem? What can I do to fix this? I
>>>>>>> really don't want to buy a new caliper, they don't come cheap for
>>>>>>> Honda's.
>>>>>>> -- Something to add..... the other day when coming into town, from
>>>>>>> the highway.... the first set of lights... my brake pedal sunk
>>>>>>> almost to the floor. Could this whole problem just be air in my
>>>>>>> brake lines? Any help is greatly appreciated.
>>>>>> you need to find a competent mechanic - whoever told you that stuff
>>>>>> about sticking brakes causing wheel shake was blowing smoke.
>>>>>> collapsed brake line is also utter rubbish.
>>>>>> 1. get the wheel balanced properly.
>>>>>> 2. check for work/damaged ball joints & bushings. 3. ensure shock is
>>>>>> not blown.
>>>>>> 4. service brakes using honda parts.
>>>>>> 5. replace master cylinder - that's why the pedal is sinking.
>>>>> The brake is sticking, I came home today and my rotor was glowing
>>>>> red.. smoking... etc.
>>>>> When it gets hot I suppose it warps causing intense shake... and it
>>>>> worsens the longer I drive.
>>>> then why are you driving it???
>>>> jeepers, at the risk of sounding like a jerk, apart from this being
>>>> f-ing dangerous, the money you've wasted in excess gas consumption would
>>>> probably have paid for the repair already!
>>>> 1. get the caliper fixed because it's seized. you can service the
>>>> existing caliper if it's not too badly rusted. or you can simply
>>>> replace the whole thing.
>>>> 2. get the master cylinder fixed because it's leaking.
>>>> you probably also need to get pads and maybe disks replaced if they're
>>>> too worn. possibly bearing too if it's cooked.
>>>> bottom line, if you can't do this yourself, you need to find someone
>>>> competent to do it for you. stay away from the "collapsed brake line"
>>>> guy. and if you can't afford to repair the car, get rid of it. you're
>>>> a hazard to yourself, and worse, other road users.
>>> This is a brand new caliper put on in January, it must have been a junk
>>> part put on at the garage. Ever since they put them on I've noticed some
>>> pull to one side while braking, and now the thing is totally messed... It
>>> does slowly release, seems okay on the highway, but in town, constantly
>>> braking, it gets jammed tight to the rotor. Im hoping to have this fixed
>>> next week. How much labor am I looking at? If its a pretty easy job I
>>> may try and do it myself.
>> Can you do any work yourself?
>> If so, raise the car on that side and put it on a stand, remove the wheel
>> and LOOK at the caliper. If you can't see anything, then investigate.
>>
>> Unfortunately, since you don't *TELL* us what the car is, I'm guessing a
>> '93 Accord, just because. This procedure is good for '86-95:
>>
>> http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...f1/0900823d800...
>>
>> Check out figures 3 and 4 for caliper removal. There is a bolt with a
>> slide at the bottom, and a pin with a slide at the top.
>>
>> My bet is the slide has seized in it's bore and is locking the caliper.
>> I'm surprised you don't have a smoke show to boot!
>>
>> If you're adventurous, you can remove the slider from the caliper (if it
>> hasn't *welded* itself in there by now), remove the rubber boot, get some
>> emery cloth and clean the rust from the bore until it slides readily but
>> with a small amount of resistance, grease it and put it back together.
>>
>> I had the same problem with a Supra 2 years ago, and 25,000 miles later
>> I'm still on the same caliper...
>
> Turned out to be just a pinched hose. One of the clamps which holds
> the hose tight to the Shock was pinching the hose too tight,
> preventing brake fluid from escaping.

ok, that would be an explanation. but there's no way that's going to
happen on its own - it's pure human error. whoever last did you brake
lines was dangerously inept.

> I replaced the brake pads and
> way to go.
>
> I still have a slight shake when braking though, this is likely from
> the rotor warping a little from the intense heat when the caliper was
> sticking.
>

google this group for the cure.

Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote:
> On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 12:32:05 -0700, 85miles wrote:
>
>>> If you're adventurous, you can remove the slider from the caliper (if it
>>> hasn't *welded* itself in there by now), remove the rubber boot, get
>>> some emery cloth and clean the rust from the bore until it slides
>>> readily but with a small amount of resistance, grease it and put it back
>>> together.
>>>
>>> I had the same problem with a Supra 2 years ago, and 25,000 miles later
>>> I'm still on the same caliper...
>> Turned out to be just a pinched hose. One of the clamps which holds the
>> hose tight to the Shock was pinching the hose too tight, preventing brake
>> fluid from escaping. I replaced the brake pads and way to go.
>>
>> I still have a slight shake when braking though, this is likely from the
>> rotor warping a little from the intense heat when the caliper was
>> sticking.
>
>
> Wow! Easy fix!
>
> Now, just replace the rotor and you should be good!

unlikely to be necessary.

>
> However, I did have a rotor warp on a Celica, and for some odd reason, the
> shuddering went away about 6 weeks later...


entirely possible - because the wheel eventually seated properly. use a
little anti-seize on the hub face and you'll cure it pretty much every time.

On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 20:26:26 -0700, jim beam wrote:

> Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote:
>> On Thu, 12 Jul 2007 12:32:05 -0700, 85miles wrote:
>>
>>>> If you're adventurous, you can remove the slider from the caliper (if
>>>> it hasn't *welded* itself in there by now), remove the rubber boot,
>>>> get some emery cloth and clean the rust from the bore until it slides
>>>> readily but with a small amount of resistance, grease it and put it
>>>> back together.
>>>>
>>>> I had the same problem with a Supra 2 years ago, and 25,000 miles
>>>> later I'm still on the same caliper...
>>> Turned out to be just a pinched hose. One of the clamps which holds
>>> the hose tight to the Shock was pinching the hose too tight, preventing
>>> brake fluid from escaping. I replaced the brake pads and way to go.
>>>
>>> I still have a slight shake when braking though, this is likely from
>>> the rotor warping a little from the intense heat when the caliper was
>>> sticking.
>>
>>
>> Wow! Easy fix!
>>
>> Now, just replace the rotor and you should be good!
>
> unlikely to be necessary.
>
>
>> However, I did have a rotor warp on a Celica, and for some odd reason,
>> the shuddering went away about 6 weeks later...
>
>
> entirely possible - because the wheel eventually seated properly. use a
> little anti-seize on the hub face and you'll cure it pretty much every
> time.


I used axle grease on that one. All I had handy at the time.

After almost bending the "frame" on a Grand Voyager last fall using
sledgehammer blows to remove one of the front wheels, you can *bet* I
anti-seize the hub faces!!!