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phaser wrote:
> Can anyone tell me how to drain the tranny fluid myself? Where is the > drain plug? Do I need a crush washer? > > 2002 V6 Accord 35k > > Thanks. > ------------------------------ www.slhondaparts.com has your diagrams and part #s. Use a 3/8 socket HANDLE without socket, normal thread. Make sure to remove fill plug (dipstick) and tranny should be warmed up just before draining. Use ONLY Honda Z1 fluid, and do it three times (weekends) or run it through all the gears between drains. Magnet will be heavily coated and drain bolt will be VERY tight first time (nobody knows why). 'Curly' |
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As Curly mentions, when you take the bolt off you need wipe off all of
the metal goo that is attached to the bolt. Also replace the crush washer and use a pole if you need extra leverage (I end up always needing it). I just believe that it may be overkill to replace the fluid three times. I doubt most Hondas out on the road that have over 150k miles baby their cars as we do and they are still fine. I would change it once wait a week and do it again and that's it. Nick On Sat, 10 Mar 2007 09:17:07 -0700, motsco_ <motsco_@interbaun.com> wrote: >phaser wrote: >> Can anyone tell me how to drain the tranny fluid myself? Where is the >> drain plug? Do I need a crush washer? >> >> 2002 V6 Accord 35k >> >> Thanks. >> >------------------------------ > >www.slhondaparts.com has your diagrams and part #s. > >Use a 3/8 socket HANDLE without socket, normal thread. Make sure to >remove fill plug (dipstick) and tranny should be warmed up just before >draining. Use ONLY Honda Z1 fluid, and do it three times (weekends) or >run it through all the gears between drains. Magnet will be heavily >coated and drain bolt will be VERY tight first time (nobody knows why). > >'Curly' |
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On Mar 9, 1:14 am, "phaser" <phasereve...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Can anyone tell me how to drain the tranny fluid myself? Where is the > drain plug? Do I need a crush washer? > > 2002 V6 Accord 35k > > Thanks. Must use Honda's Z1 fluid. Change once now. Look at the fluid after driving to mix. If it still looks bad (or worse, smells cooked), change again. If not, then go to a 15,000 mile schedule. The "change three times" deal is overkill for most people. Would recommend it though, if you do a hellacious amount of stop n go in hot temperatures. The crush washer is probably 18mm like on 7th generation Accords. As I recall, older models (my old '90 Integra) used the same 14mm as the engine oil drain. |
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In article <1173909074.310847.136030@l77g2000hsb.googlegroups .com>,
jmattis@attglobal.net wrote: > Must use Honda's Z1 fluid. Change once now. Look at the fluid after > driving to mix. If it still looks bad (or worse, smells cooked), > change again. If not, then go to a 15,000 mile schedule. The "change > three times" deal is overkill for most people. That's not a change. Honda specifies that only for people who wish to exchange much of their fluid for some reason. They specify NO flush, but rather the drain/fill/drive/ threepeat cycle. When the service schedule says "change transmission oil," it means pull the plug, drain all you can, and fill back up. Period. |
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Nick <--@hotmail.com> wrote in news:rqsev2drfrgpbu2u36j6qc9qu9nftplq7o@
4ax.com: > As Curly mentions, when you take the bolt off you need wipe off all of > the metal goo that is attached to the bolt. Also replace the crush > washer and use a pole if you need extra leverage (I end up always > needing it). I just believe that it may be overkill to replace the > fluid three times. That is the factory specification. You only get some of the fluid out with each drain. You need to drive the car a hundred yards or so between drains to exchange the fluid that's stuck in the torque converter. If you regularly do a drain/fill two or three times a year, you can get away with doing only one drain/fill each time. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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In article <Xns98F9CE983E9B5tegger@207.14.116.130>,
Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote: > > As Curly mentions, when you take the bolt off you need wipe off all of > > the metal goo that is attached to the bolt. Also replace the crush > > washer and use a pole if you need extra leverage (I end up always > > needing it). I just believe that it may be overkill to replace the > > fluid three times. > > > > That is the factory specification. For a full exchange, that's the factory specification (as opposed to a "flush" which is not recommended under any circumstances). For a routine transmission fluid service, they specify a simple, single, drain and fill. |
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"Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop@nastydesigns.com> wrote in news:elmop-335231.06540221032007@nntp9.usenetserver.com:
> In article <Xns98F9CE983E9B5tegger@207.14.116.130>, > Tegger <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote: > >> > As Curly mentions, when you take the bolt off you need wipe off all of >> > the metal goo that is attached to the bolt. Also replace the crush >> > washer and use a pole if you need extra leverage (I end up always >> > needing it). I just believe that it may be overkill to replace the >> > fluid three times. >> >> >> >> That is the factory specification. > > For a full exchange, that's the factory specification (as opposed to a > "flush" which is not recommended under any circumstances). I've recently been following a couple of highly interesting threads in rec.autos.tech. In that group, a working tech with lots of transmission experience described the flush procedure, plus his many observations of disassembled transmissions. 1) A "flush" is not what I was thinking it was. 2) Sludge does not build up inside the valve body or shift valves. Conclusion: The prohibition on "flushing" is "Internet wisdom". There is nothing wrong with a "flush" as routinely performed by garages. Check out this thread: <http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.tech/browse_frm/thread/ff3d521790590332/b9c3aacf10b40f6d?lnk=st&q=&rnum=1#b9c3aacf10b40f6d > Look for posts in that thread by: shiden_kai -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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