Honda Car Forum

I have a 90 accord. What's the best way to take care of the rust
above the rear wheel wells that allows water into the trunk? Looks
like a mess.

<runderwo@mail.win.org> wrote in message
news:1171289032.805856.184430@v45g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> I have a 90 accord. What's the best way to take care of the rust
> above the rear wheel wells that allows water into the trunk? Looks
> like a mess.

For a professional job go to a professional. For a functional job check the
POR-15 website. They have a "kit" for floorpan and trunk restoration". Has
gotten good reviews and seems to be the best alternative to replacing fender
or welding in new metal. And no the effectively control the supply so I have
been unable to find it at a discount. $138 seems to be the going price for
the kit.
Best of Luck
Howard

Also check tail lights as a source for leakage.


<runderwo@mail.win.org> wrote in message
news:1171289032.805856.184430@v45g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a 90 accord. What's the best way to take care of the rust
> above the rear wheel wells that allows water into the trunk? Looks
> like a mess.
>

What's the best way to take care of the rust
> above the rear wheel wells that allows water into the trunk? Looks
> like a mess.

Get a spray can of rubber-based, self-curing black insulation. I
think 3M makes something like this but I haven't seen it in years
(haven't needed it again). It's a black, spray-on slightly foamy,
slightly expanding sticky stuff that hardens in a few minutes to a
solid and non-sticky rubber material. Automobile paint store or some
specialty shop should have it. Also you need some "tin snips" and a
piece of thin sheet steel.

You snip a piece of steel to fit over the hole, then spray the rubber
around the edge of the hole, and place the sheet metal (it should
stick, even horizontally, or hold for a few moments if necessary).
Then spray the upper (if visible) and lower piece of sheet metal all
over, let it all dry as you move to the next hole. End product is
absolutely professional looking, keeps the water out, you'd never know
it had rusted thru. Total cost maybe $30, less if you already have
the snips. I did this many years ago. It was a simple fix, worked
great for the life of the car, actually fun, and protected from
further rust.

the way to tell where it's really coming from is have a little person in
trunk and spray it down with water and they can mark or tell you where
water water is coming in...we ran a boddy shop for 30 years and that
was the best way to tell..
good luck....


--
Scrapper
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On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 14:43:52 -0800, Scrapper wrote:

> the way to tell where it's really coming from is have a little person in
> trunk and spray it down with water and they can mark or tell you where
> water water is coming in...we ran a boddy shop for 30 years and that
> was the best way to tell..
> good luck....
>
>

Last time I put a little person in the trunk, the police got really mad at
me...

i never said a kid....is your wife little?? mine is..lol..


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On Feb 12, 9:03 am, "runde...@mail.win.org" <runde...@mail.win.org>
wrote:
> I have a 90 accord. What's the best way to take care of the rust
> above the rear wheel wells that allows water into the trunk? Looks
> like a mess.


Best way to care of it, guaranteed, is to buy a new car. ;-)

Dan D
'07 Ody EX
Central NJ USA

why u wana do that hondas are good cars u can drive um in the ground
there tuff motors...but if you wana see where waters coming from buy a
motorcycle.
lol....


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On Feb 13, 4:06 pm, jmat...@attglobal.net wrote:
> What's the best way to take care of the rust
>
> > above the rear wheel wells that allows water into the trunk? Looks
> > like a mess.
>
> Get a spray can of rubber-based, self-curing black insulation. I
> think 3M makes something like this but I haven't seen it in years
> (haven't needed it again). It's a black, spray-on slightly foamy,
> slightly expanding sticky stuff that hardens in a few minutes to a
> solid and non-sticky rubber material. Automobile paint store or some
> specialty shop should have it.

Something like this?
http://www.yachtsofstuff.com/userPos...&cexs=pro-tect

Pro-Tect is a waterproof, flexible and permanent rubber coating that
will act as a barrier against moisture-causing rust and corrosion,
even when totally submerged.

Pro-Tect can be applied to almost any surface. The rubberized coating
conforms with an extremely tight bond. Pro-Tect dries clear and will
not discolor or harm the surface.

Pro-Tect is ideal for marine and boating applications.
Applications:
Electrical Connections
Protects Against Rust & Corrosion
Nuts & Bolts
Engine Parts
Exposed Metal
Ignition Wiring
Circuit Boards
Antenna Connections
Lighting Connections
Water Valves & Connections
General Waterproofing


Pro-Tect is a superior electrical insulator. Only 0.004" of Pro-Tect
will withstand 300 volts. The clear coating allows for easy visual
inspection of all wires.
One 11 0z. can of Pro-Tect will cover approximately 60 sq. ft.
Price - $27.99, FREE Shipping, Continental US only

> You snip a piece of steel to fit over the hole, then spray the rubber
> around the edge of the hole, and place the sheet metal (it should
> stick, even horizontally, or hold for a few moments if necessary).

Does the sheet metal go on the inside or outside?

> Then spray the upper (if visible) and lower piece of sheet metal all
> over, let it all dry as you move to the next hole. End product is
> absolutely professional looking, keeps the water out, you'd never know
> it had rusted thru.

Does primer stick to the rubber so it can be painted over?

Sounds like the cheapest fix I have found so far.