Honda Car Forum |
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03 Dec 2006, 04:03 am
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Re: Castle nut stuck
Ok, well - I have that all figured out. Now, I can't for the life on
me figure out how in the hell to get the circlip removed. I have ring pliers, I even tried to get under it with a razor blade with no luck. What's the trick? Thanks Cole wrote: > Yes, it sure has been a project. I currently don't need my car for day > to day travel and I'm on a relatively limited income, not to mention > this has been sort of fun for me  Plus, this needs to be done and> the car has been incredibly reliable so I just want to make sure it > stays that way. > > Ok, so an update. It was necessary to loosen the sway bar and the ball > stud separated from the control arm easy. Now, and you read my mind, > Speedy Pete--I need to remove the drive axle from the knuckle to remove > and install the ball joint. > > I've taken a 2 lb dead blow hammer to the spindle nut and not had any > lucky. Pry at the back? That sounds like a good way to go about it. > This part makes me nervous though, I do not want to damage the bearing > or any of the drive assembly. How hard can I hit the spindle without > doing damage? Should I be concerned? I'm getting very close and more > excited every step. After this, assuming success, I have to replace > the passenger side half shaft  > > I am indebted for your help, > > Cole > > > Speedy Pete wrote: > > Cole wrote: > > > > > > In order to separate the ball joint stud from the lower control arm > > > will it be necessary to remove the damper fork, radius arm and sway bar > > > or should I be able to remove all three? Any thoughts on pushing the > > > ball joint out of the knuckle before separating from the lower control > > > arm? > > > > Whew! this has turned into quite a project for you!! > > > > OK heres a recap of parts removal- > > > > You got the nut off. NOW find a GREAT BIG brass hammer and a pry bar. > > Give the bottom of the spindle a big whack while applying prying action > > to separate the joint. I got this great tip at a honda boneyard outside > > Atlanta GA. > > > > The driveshaft will slide out once you separate the lower ball joint. > > Leave the caliper on so you can undo the axle nut if you didnt think of > > it before you took off the wheels. A LIGHT tap of a hammer should > > dislodge it. > > > > All the other parts are incidental unless you are working on them. > > > > Sooooooo, why the heck are you putting up with all this turmoil anyway? > > ALternnator replacement? Suspension upgrade?? > > > > -SP     
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04 Dec 2006, 10:25 pm
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Re: Castle nut stuck
Circlip?? WHat ARE you doing???
-SP Cole wrote: > Ok, well - I have that all figured out. Now, I can't for the life on > me figure out how in the hell to get the circlip removed. I have ring > pliers, I even tried to get under it with a razor blade with no luck. > What's the trick?
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05 Dec 2006, 12:15 am
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Re: Castle nut stuck
Ball joint replacement and I'm almost finished!
Now, I'm placing the spindle back into the knuckle and there's about a 1/4 or perhaps less of an inch of the drive shaft assembly that has not fully fit into the knuckle. Is it appropriate to just take a hammer to the hub to try to push it together or is there a more sophisticated way to do it? Thank you, Cole Speedy Pete wrote: > Circlip?? WHat ARE you doing??? > > -SP > > Cole wrote: > > Ok, well - I have that all figured out. Now, I can't for the life on > > me figure out how in the hell to get the circlip removed. I have ring > > pliers, I even tried to get under it with a razor blade with no luck. > > What's the trick?
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05 Dec 2006, 12:15 am
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Re: Castle nut stuck
Cole wrote:
> > In order to separate the ball joint stud from the lower control arm > will it be necessary to remove the damper fork, radius arm and sway bar > or should I be able to remove all three? just the damper fork. > Any thoughts on pushing the > ball joint out of the knuckle before separating from the lower control > arm? just separate the bottom joint, remove the fork and the shaft can be removed from the knuckle and the transmission. > > Thank you, > > Cole > > > jim beam wrote: >> Cole wrote: >>> I appreciate your tip on the spindle nut, I will heed it and go ahead >>> and just buy a replacement. Is it necessary to replace it every time >>> it is loosened? >> yes. >> >>> Do you have a suggestion for the damper fork? >> unbolt from the bottom of the shock. leave the top of the shock in place. >> >>> I'm not sure that with >>> it on I will be able to separate the ball joint from the lower control >>> arm or whether or not I can just keep it tight quarters. >> gotta separate if you're going to replace the ball joint. do it before >> you separate the top joint and the shock fork. >> >>> My preference >>> would certainly be to not do so. >> no choice! >> >>> I guess we will see >>> >>> >>> P.S. I have rented a ball joint press. >>> >>> Thank you again for your help. >>> >>> >>> jim beam wrote: >>>> Cole wrote: >>>>> Ok, I have the spindle nut off, the ball joint castle nut is off. Now, >>>>> the fun begins >>>>> >>>>> What's the best way to remove the drive shaft? Just prying it lose >>>>> from the back of the knuckle? Will it be possible to move it out of >>>>> the way without removing the damper fork? What about the brake >>>>> assembly? The shop manual is saying to remove it, but I don't see that >>>>> it would be in the way, can I work around it? >>>>> >>>>> Thank you all! >>>>> >>>> dead blow hammer direct to the spindle end. should come right out. do >>>> NOT use a steel hammer. you'll damage the axle, and worse, risk >>>> brinelling the wheel bearing. don't pry from behind - you'll ruin the >>>> boot. when replacing the axle nut, you should replace with a new one. >>>> however, in emergency, you can re-use the old one by carefully abrading >>>> the face of the nut where it rests on the hub. place the nut flat on a >>>> smooth hard abrasive surface, a flat paving stone for example, and rub >>>> the nut back and forth. then rotate one hex flat in your hand, then rub >>>> again. repeat until the nut will screw back on to a different position >>>> and you can cleanly re-peen the locking skirt. make sure the nut >>>> remains flat and even when doing it. again, this is a temporary fix >>>> until you buy the proper new locking nut. >>>> >>>> to replace the ball joint, you need a big vise or a hydraulic press. >>>> unless you have this equipment, for the sake of a few bucks, it's worth >>>> taking it to a shop to have them press in the new one. it takes them a >>>> couple of minutes. >
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05 Dec 2006, 09:36 pm
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Re: Castle nut stuck
Just push the drivesaft in and put the nut on. You should be able to
pull it into place easily turning the nut. -SP Cole wrote: > Ball joint replacement and I'm almost finished! > > Now, I'm placing the spindle back into the knuckle and there's about a > 1/4 or perhaps less of an inch of the drive shaft assembly that has not > fully fit into the knuckle. Is it appropriate to just take a hammer to > the hub to try to push it together or is there a more sophisticated way > to do it? > > Thank you, > > Cole > > > > Speedy Pete wrote: >> Circlip?? WHat ARE you doing??? >> >> -SP >> >> Cole wrote: >>> Ok, well - I have that all figured out. Now, I can't for the life on >>> me figure out how in the hell to get the circlip removed. I have ring >>> pliers, I even tried to get under it with a razor blade with no luck. >>> What's the trick? >
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