Honda Car Forum

I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI
non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking
off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the
gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel
filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns.

When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on
the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two
different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively
new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would
also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true?

Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't
it shake all the time?

Thanks!

emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI
> non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking
> off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the
> gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel
> filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns.
>
> When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on
> the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two
> different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively
> new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would
> also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true?
>
> Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't
> it shake all the time?
>
> Thanks!
>
Hi,
Clutch?

emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI
> non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking
> off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the
> gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel
> filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns.
>
> When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on
> the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two
> different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively
> new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would
> also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true?
>
> Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't
> it shake all the time?
>
> Thanks!
>


Hmmm, hard to say from just reading about it, but maybe you have a
clutch problem. A badly worn clutch or a clutch with oil on it from a
leaking engine or transmission seal can cause a judder on start up.

A cracked motor mount should be replaced. It probably isn't the cause
of your judder, but it sounds like the replacement mount might not have
been of very high quality. There are a lot of short-lived rubber
aftermarket parts on the market!

Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP.

My 93 Del Sol has done this since I got it three years ago. Careful
clutch technique (slightly higher revs, slight slipping, NO burnouts)
keeps it under control, but every so often, it gets a little worse.
I don't plan to do anything about it until the clutch shows sign of
failure.
Dan

(This account is not used for email.)


(emil.santos@gmail.com) writes:
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI
> non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking
> off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the
> gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel
> filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns.
>
> When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on
> the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two
> different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively
> new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would
> also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true?
>
> Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't
> it shake all the time?
>
> Thanks!
>

My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
*coil's insulating lacquer.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif
#18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much
heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground
= no spark.

Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's
crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues
hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will
be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ).

Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls.

TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely
suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst
after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time.

Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can
you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the
distributor and induction coil?






TE Chea wrote:
> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
> *coil's insulating lacquer.
> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif
> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much
> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground
> = no spark.
>
> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's
> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues
> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will
> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ).
>
> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls.

<emil.santos@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1161453090.690493.207120@m7g2000cwm.googlegro ups.com...
> I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI
> non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking
> off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the
> gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel
> filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns.
>
> When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on
> the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two
> different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively
> new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would
> also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true?
>
> Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't
> it shake all the time?
>
> Thanks!
>

If it developed over a period of a few weeks or a couple months, I suspect
the fuel injectors are getting dirty. The symptoms sound like the times I've
had dirty injectors. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner (most people prefer
Techron, but I've had as much luck with cheap cleaners like Pyroil) in the
tank will make a difference within 100 miles and fix it entirely in 300
miles if that is the problem. Cheap and easy, it's worth a try.

Mike

Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel
injector cleaner about a month ago.

emil.santos@gmail.com wrote:
> TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely
> suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst
> after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time.
>
> Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can
> you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the
> distributor and induction coil?

emil, be very very careful trying to make sense of chea's posts. most
of it is nonsense. the rest, stupid.

this will give you a clue:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.a...68269f3?hl=en&

>
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> TE Chea wrote:
>> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction
>> *coil's insulating lacquer.
>> http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sm40_f02.gif
>> #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much
>> heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground
>> = no spark.
>>
>> Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's
>> crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues
>> hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will
>> be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ).
>>
>> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls.
>