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Hey all,
I just purchased a used 03 accord, very happy so far. I previously drove a 93 civic and like many others I saw on the road it had small rust spots in specific locations, (10 O'Clock on the pass rear wheel well, ect) (( incidentally if Honda had not put that rubber strip around the inside of the sheet metal, it probably would have never rusted at all)) Are there any problem spots that I should be watching for on my new accord, given thats its an 03 and with our heavily salted roads here in MI I want to make sure I keep it in the best shape possible. Thanks Dave |
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"Zephyr" <davedejonge@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:1158698578.386569.323740@k70g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com: > Hey all, > > I just purchased a used 03 accord, very happy so far. I previously > drove a 93 civic and like many others I saw on the road it had small > rust spots in specific locations, (10 O'Clock on the pass rear wheel > well, ect) Usual rust spot on Hondas. > (( incidentally if Honda had not put that rubber strip > around the inside of the sheet metal, it probably would have never > rusted at all)) Wrong. Very wrong. > > > Are there any problem spots that I should be watching for on my new > accord, Lots and lots. Too many to list here. > given thats its an 03 and with our heavily salted roads here > in MI I want to make sure I keep it in the best shape possible. > Go across to Windsor once a year and get a Krown treatment done. Buy a few spray cans of T40 for touch up. You're lucky you're near Ontario. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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TeGGeR® wrote: > "Zephyr" <davedejonge@hotmail.com> wrote in > news:1158698578.386569.323740@k70g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com: > > > Hey all, > > > > I just purchased a used 03 accord, very happy so far. I previously > > drove a 93 civic and like many others I saw on the road it had small > > rust spots in specific locations, (10 O'Clock on the pass rear wheel > > well, ect) > > > Usual rust spot on Hondas. > > > > (( incidentally if Honda had not put that rubber strip > > around the inside of the sheet metal, it probably would have never > > rusted at all)) > > > Wrong. Very wrong. > Not to get in a pissing match with you here, but I'd stick to my statement that if that rubber strip had not been placed there in the first place no moisture would have been trapped there and started the rust spot. OR had the glue holding the thing in place stayed forever, it would never have rusted either. BUT. It didn't and once the rubber started to peal away just a bit, it caused the inevitable. Unfortunately by the time I had purchased my last civic, and a previous accord before that, the cycle had already started. I'm really hoping to stay ahead of the game on this new accord. I've been looking at others that I see in parking lots ect. but, I'd rather not have some mom and her 2 kids ask me why I'm peaking under the wheel wells of her car. ![]() I know you said that there are too many to list, how about this, could someone just throw out the top 1 or 2 places that they have seen rust starting to form? Dave |
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"Zephyr" <davedejonge@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:1158844446.151603.233560@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com: > > TeGGeR® wrote: >> "Zephyr" <davedejonge@hotmail.com> wrote in >> news:1158698578.386569.323740@k70g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com: >> >> > Hey all, >> > >> > I just purchased a used 03 accord, very happy so far. I >> > previously drove a 93 civic and like many others I saw on the road >> > it had small rust spots in specific locations, (10 O'Clock on the >> > pass rear wheel well, ect) >> >> >> Usual rust spot on Hondas. >> >> >> > (( incidentally if Honda had not put that rubber strip >> > around the inside of the sheet metal, it probably would have never >> > rusted at all)) >> >> >> Wrong. Very wrong. >> > > > Not to get in a pissing match with you here, but I'd stick to my > statement that if that rubber strip had not been placed there in the > first place no moisture would have been trapped there and started the > rust spot. OR had the glue holding the thing in place stayed > forever, it would never have rusted either. There is a trick Honda never thought of: You have to keep the area clean and well soaked with special oil. Do that, and the area will never rust, because the rubber picks up the oil and acts as a preservative. The oil I refer to is sold in Canada under the Krown and Rust Check names. > > > I know you said that there are too many to list, how about this, > could someone just throw out the top 1 or 2 places that they have seen > rust starting to form? > Top three: 1) Rear edge of the wheel well lips where they meet the bumper 2) Rear bumper hangers at wheel wells. 3) Rear of rocker panel immediately ahead of the rear wheel well lip. Common secondary locations: 1) Top corners of windshield 2) Trunk/hatch lid rear edge. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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> > > There is a trick Honda never thought of: You have to keep the area clean > and well soaked with special oil. Do that, and the area will never rust, > because the rubber picks up the oil and acts as a preservative. > > The oil I refer to is sold in Canada under the Krown and Rust Check > names. > > > > > > > > I know you said that there are too many to list, how about this, > > could someone just throw out the top 1 or 2 places that they have seen > > rust starting to form? > > > > > Top three: > 1) Rear edge of the wheel well lips where they meet the bumper > 2) Rear bumper hangers at wheel wells. > 3) Rear of rocker panel immediately ahead of the rear wheel well lip. > > Common secondary locations: > 1) Top corners of windshield > 2) Trunk/hatch lid rear edge. > > > -- > TeGGeR® > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Tegger, thanks a bunch!!! I'll be watching those spots closely. I'm from Ontario originally, so trips that way are pretty common for me. I'll make sure to look up that oil you mentioned. Thanks again! Dave DeJonge |
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"Zephyr" <davedejonge@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:1158845513.770637.81650@h48g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com: > >> >> >> There is a trick Honda never thought of: You have to keep the area >> clean and well soaked with special oil. Do that, and the area will >> never rust, because the rubber picks up the oil and acts as a >> preservative. >> >> The oil I refer to is sold in Canada under the Krown and Rust Check >> names. >> >> >> > >> > >> > I know you said that there are too many to list, how about this, >> > could someone just throw out the top 1 or 2 places that they have >> > seen rust starting to form? >> > >> >> >> Top three: >> 1) Rear edge of the wheel well lips where they meet the bumper >> 2) Rear bumper hangers at wheel wells. >> 3) Rear of rocker panel immediately ahead of the rear wheel well lip. >> >> Common secondary locations: >> 1) Top corners of windshield >> 2) Trunk/hatch lid rear edge. >> >> > > > Tegger, > > thanks a bunch!!! > > I'll be watching those spots closely. I'm from Ontario originally, so > trips that way are pretty common for me. I'll make sure to look up > that oil you mentioned. > Unfortunately the only way of stopping the Top Three is annual treatements with the "drippy" rustproofing, which, as far as I know, is only available in Ontario. You can buy spray cans of Rust Check at Canadian Tire and spray cans of Krown T40 at Home Hardware. These I use for touchup, like spraying every week or so along the inside of the rear wheel well lip. Krown T40 ids better, as it's thicker. You also have to be very diligent in touching up stone chips. If these chips have been there for a while, you need to use rust converter (even if you can't see any rust), and zinc primer. Sandblasting from driving eventually means rust on the insides of the rear wheel wells right at the front, just before it meets the bottom. When rust begins here, you have to grind it back to bare steel, prime wirth zinc primer, then paint. Both zinc and paint need to be separately force-cured with the use of a hot-air gun prior to the next step. The rear edges of the FRONT wheel wells also corrode under the plastic splash guards. Treatment is as above, removing the splash guards to get at it. Keeping rust at bay up here is an exercise in diligence. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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"TeGGeR®" wrote: > > "Zephyr" <davedejonge@hotmail.com> wrote in > news:1158845513.770637.81650@h48g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com: > > > > >> > >> > >> There is a trick Honda never thought of: You have to keep the area > >> clean and well soaked with special oil. Do that, and the area will > >> never rust, because the rubber picks up the oil and acts as a > >> preservative. > >> > >> The oil I refer to is sold in Canada under the Krown and Rust Check > >> names. > >> > >> > >> > > >> > > >> > I know you said that there are too many to list, how about this, > >> > could someone just throw out the top 1 or 2 places that they have > >> > seen rust starting to form? > >> > > >> > >> > >> Top three: > >> 1) Rear edge of the wheel well lips where they meet the bumper > >> 2) Rear bumper hangers at wheel wells. > >> 3) Rear of rocker panel immediately ahead of the rear wheel well lip. > >> > >> Common secondary locations: > >> 1) Top corners of windshield > >> 2) Trunk/hatch lid rear edge. > >> > >> > > > > > > Tegger, > > > > thanks a bunch!!! > > > > I'll be watching those spots closely. I'm from Ontario originally, so > > trips that way are pretty common for me. I'll make sure to look up > > that oil you mentioned. > > > > Unfortunately the only way of stopping the Top Three is annual > treatements with the "drippy" rustproofing, which, as far as I know, is > only available in Ontario. > > You can buy spray cans of Rust Check at Canadian Tire and spray cans of > Krown T40 at Home Hardware. These I use for touchup, like spraying every > week or so along the inside of the rear wheel well lip. Krown T40 ids > better, as it's thicker. > > You also have to be very diligent in touching up stone chips. If these > chips have been there for a while, you need to use rust converter (even > if you can't see any rust), and zinc primer. > > Sandblasting from driving eventually means rust on the insides of the > rear wheel wells right at the front, just before it meets the bottom. > When rust begins here, you have to grind it back to bare steel, prime > wirth zinc primer, then paint. Both zinc and paint need to be separately > force-cured with the use of a hot-air gun prior to the next step. > > The rear edges of the FRONT wheel wells also corrode under the plastic > splash guards. Treatment is as above, removing the splash guards to get > at it. > > Keeping rust at bay up here is an exercise in diligence. > > -- > TeGGeR® > Down in the "lower 48," some practice proactive rust prevention by spraying copious amounts of used motor oil on the whole undercarriage. Probably a life term if the EPA catches you but effective. In the end though, the rust still will win out but at least after perhaps doubling the vehicles life span... <G> JT |
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