Honda Car Forum

Hi, I'm new to the group, but my daughter has a Honda now so I'll be
lurking.
I didn't find anything on this exact problem in a search so:

Vehicle is a 1998 Civic DX 5spd.

Dead battery prompted a test of the alternator, which wasn't charging at
all.
Replaced alternator, and externally charged battery overnight. The car
started fine the next morning, and it worked fine for about 1/2 a day,
charging between 13.8v and 14.2v, then the speedo quit working, then that
evening the headlights were dim.

Next morning, battery was weak again, I charged the battery for a while,
then started it, but now there is a no charge condition again, verified with
a Fluke meter at the battery, but not at the alternator.

A brief check of the fuse block under the dash revealed a blown 10A fuse,
Alternator / Speedo. Replaced it, had a charge at the battery, then blew the
fuse when moving the vehicle in the driveway.

I suspect the vehicle speed sensor has a bad connection or is
malfunctioning. Any other ideas before I dive back in tomorrow?

Thanks in advance!

Spdloader

Spdloader wrote:
>
> Hi, I'm new to the group, but my daughter has a Honda now so I'll be
> lurking.
> I didn't find anything on this exact problem in a search so:
>
> Vehicle is a 1998 Civic DX 5spd.
>
> Dead battery prompted a test of the alternator, which wasn't charging at
> all.
> Replaced alternator, and externally charged battery overnight. The car
> started fine the next morning, and it worked fine for about 1/2 a day,
> charging between 13.8v and 14.2v, then the speedo quit working, then that
> evening the headlights were dim.
>
> Next morning, battery was weak again, I charged the battery for a while,
> then started it, but now there is a no charge condition again, verified with
> a Fluke meter at the battery, but not at the alternator.
>
> A brief check of the fuse block under the dash revealed a blown 10A fuse,
> Alternator / Speedo. Replaced it, had a charge at the battery, then blew the
> fuse when moving the vehicle in the driveway.
>
> I suspect the vehicle speed sensor has a bad connection or is
> malfunctioning. Any other ideas before I dive back in tomorrow?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Spdloader

------------------------------------------
Disconnect the battery for 30 seconds, then reconnect without
'spitzensparken'. You might just need to clean up the 'boot' for all the
electronics. The don't like low voltages and errors creep in. Odyssey is
worst because many sliding doors and interior lights (and kids). Owners
spend hundreds on towing and 'diagnosis' when all they needed is a
recharge and a disconnect.

'Curly'

"Spdloader" <askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> wrote in
news:Adkpg.4053$4c7.4030@tornado.southeast.rr.com:

> Hi, I'm new to the group, but my daughter has a Honda now so I'll be
> lurking.
> I didn't find anything on this exact problem in a search so:
>
> Vehicle is a 1998 Civic DX 5spd.
>
> Dead battery prompted a test of the alternator, which wasn't charging
> at all.
> Replaced alternator, and externally charged battery overnight. The car
> started fine the next morning, and it worked fine for about 1/2 a day,
> charging between 13.8v and 14.2v, then the speedo quit working, then
> that evening the headlights were dim.
>
> Next morning, battery was weak again, I charged the battery for a
> while, then started it, but now there is a no charge condition again,
> verified with a Fluke meter at the battery, but not at the alternator.
>
> A brief check of the fuse block under the dash revealed a blown 10A
> fuse, Alternator / Speedo. Replaced it, had a charge at the battery,
> then blew the fuse when moving the vehicle in the driveway.
>
> I suspect the vehicle speed sensor has a bad connection or is
> malfunctioning. Any other ideas before I dive back in tomorrow?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Spdloader
>
>
>

How did you test the alternator? Have you done a load test on the
battery? Check the connections on the alternator and the battery, make
sure your wired right and getting good connections. Make sure the
alternator belt is correctly tightened. These are the basics. If all
this is OK, and you the 30 second battery disconect and it still acts up,
I say you have a dead short somewhere in the system. You may have gotten
a bad alternator with a faulty voltage regulator.

Paul.

> ------------------------------------------
> Disconnect the battery for 30 seconds, then reconnect without
> 'spitzensparken'. You might just need to clean up the 'boot' for all the
> electronics. The don't like low voltages and errors creep in. Odyssey is
> worst because many sliding doors and interior lights (and kids). Owners
> spend hundreds on towing and 'diagnosis' when all they needed is a
> recharge and a disconnect.
>
> 'Curly'


Thanks Curly, I gave it a try, but it didn't change anything.

Spdloader

> How did you test the alternator? Have you done a load test on the
> battery? Check the connections on the alternator and the battery, make
> sure your wired right and getting good connections. Make sure the
> alternator belt is correctly tightened. These are the basics. If all
> this is OK, and you the 30 second battery disconect and it still acts up,
> I say you have a dead short somewhere in the system. You may have gotten
> a bad alternator with a faulty voltage regulator.
>
> Paul.

I was a professional mechanic for 15 years, but haven't the experience with
Honda.

Original alternator tested and diagnosed with an AVR. Battery was properly
load tested.

Alternator was tested with a Fluke meter the second time.

I already covered the basics, but I appreciate the ideas.

The alternator is charging at the alternator, but not at the battery. That
rules out the alternator.

The alt/speedo fuse keeps blowing to prevent it from charging the battery,
which is why I suspect the VSS.

Spdloader

Hi Spdloader,

I've been lerking around this news group for almost a decade now and
just sold my 98 Civic Hatch to this a bodyshop guy who was going to
give it to her daughter (hope u're not the same). I'd hate to think the
car is being difficult, when it has been very good to me.

Anyways, you're the first person I've encountered that's having an
electrical short in the system for this model. If you're not making any
grounds, I'd recommend disconnecting any of the aftermarket stuff (if
any) and go from there.

Pars


Spdloader wrote:
> > How did you test the alternator? Have you done a load test on the
> > battery? Check the connections on the alternator and the battery, make
> > sure your wired right and getting good connections. Make sure the
> > alternator belt is correctly tightened. These are the basics. If all
> > this is OK, and you the 30 second battery disconect and it still acts up,
> > I say you have a dead short somewhere in the system. You may have gotten
> > a bad alternator with a faulty voltage regulator.
> >
> > Paul.
>
> I was a professional mechanic for 15 years, but haven't the experience with
> Honda.
>
> Original alternator tested and diagnosed with an AVR. Battery was properly
> load tested.
>
> Alternator was tested with a Fluke meter the second time.
>
> I already covered the basics, but I appreciate the ideas.
>
> The alternator is charging at the alternator, but not at the battery. That
> rules out the alternator.
>
> The alt/speedo fuse keeps blowing to prevent it from charging the battery,
> which is why I suspect the VSS.
>
> Spdloader

"pars" <sdaro@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> Hi Spdloader,
>
> I've been lerking around this news group for almost a decade now and
> just sold my 98 Civic Hatch to this a bodyshop guy who was going to
> give it to her daughter (hope u're not the same). I'd hate to think the
> car is being difficult, when it has been very good to me.
>
> Anyways, you're the first person I've encountered that's having an
> electrical short in the system for this model. If you're not making any
> grounds, I'd recommend disconnecting any of the aftermarket stuff (if
> any) and go from there.
>
> Pars

Thanks, so far I've been unable to find anything amiss in the circuit, I
cleaned the VSS connection, cleaned the connections at the alternator again,
and cleaned the connections at the battery again. I have unwrapped the
wiring loom looking for a short, but have found nothing, after checking
about halfway up the line. I intend to finish up with that later today after
the outside temps go down. Too freakin' hot out right now to be leaning on a
metal car.

Oh, and this one's not a hatchback, it was a hand-me-down from her step dad.

Spdloader

With the fuse replaced, at idle, the new alternator charges 13.9v, as soon
as you rev the motor the tiniest bit, the alt/spd fuse blows.

I'm guessing, I've got yet another bad alternator.

Spdloader

You can get an inexpensive magnetic ammeter from many auto parts or tools
vendors. You just lay it over the wire, and it tells you how much current
is passing through it. I'm guessing bad alternator too.

Earle

"Spdloader" <askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:Zbkqg.6116$4c7.2965@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
> With the fuse replaced, at idle, the new alternator charges 13.9v, as soon
> as you rev the motor the tiniest bit, the alt/spd fuse blows.
>
> I'm guessing, I've got yet another bad alternator.
>
> Spdloader
>
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Earle Horton" <earle-NOSPAM-horton@msn.com> wrote in message
news:44aa81e1$0$9828$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
> You can get an inexpensive magnetic ammeter from many auto parts or tools
> vendors. You just lay it over the wire, and it tells you how much current
> is passing through it. I'm guessing bad alternator too.
>
> Earle
>
> "Spdloader" <askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:Zbkqg.6116$4c7.2965@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>> With the fuse replaced, at idle, the new alternator charges 13.9v, as
>> soon
>> as you rev the motor the tiniest bit, the alt/spd fuse blows.
>>
>> I'm guessing, I've got yet another bad alternator.
>>
>> Spdloader

Thanks Earle, the probe accessories on my Fluke meter allow me a similar
setup. Hard to believe three bad alternators with exactly the same problem.
1, the original, 2, the one from the salvage yard, and 3, the reman unit
from the Zone.

Later,

Spdloader