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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 25 Jun 2006, 12:05 am
'Curly Q. Links'
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Default Re: O2 sensor wiring question

Nasty wrote:
<SNIP>
> I understand. But I've already bought two sensors that "the book" says will
> work in my car,,, and don't. I've been dicking around with this too long
> already and need to get it fixed.
>


----------------------------------------------

Have you inspected all your engine and chassis ground lugs to be sure
it's not a wiring issue? It can't heat up properly or give readings with
out all connections working right. (including the ECU connections).

'Curly'
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 25 Jun 2006, 12:21 am
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: O2 sensor wiring question

Yeah. In that case just buy the Honda one and get it over with.
Majestic sells it cheap (although not as cheap as some others posted).
I just don't use Denso sensors, Showa shocks or Honda brake fluids
(made by CCI).

The Bosch planar oxygen sensor I help installed worked fine and appear
to fix the cat efficiency problem after these months. I think Bosch
sensors are the best in class.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/Produc...sors/CeramicO2

As far as the "universal sensor" goes, it requires you to splice a
segment of the old sensor wire, so you should actually have twice the
length of the old sensor to work with!

But you already spent twice.


Nasty wrote:
>
> I understand. But I've already bought two sensors that "the book" says will
> work in my car,,, and don't. I've been dicking around with this too long
> already and need to get it fixed.
>
> Thanks for the info though. I do appreciate it.


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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 25 Jun 2006, 12:41 am
johngdole@hotmail.com
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Default Re: O2 sensor wiring question

(I used F23A1 in the search, OEM-type-connector for F23A4 differs but
same universal planar sensor. This may be your problem?)

Does your new sensors look like:

The Bosch "universal" sensor with Posi-Lok with which the old connector
is spliced onto the new planar sensor ($74.99), for both upstream of
downstrem:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=291&ptset=A

Or the Bosch OEM-connector planar sensor, upstream (primary) $89.99:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=291&ptset=A

Denso thimble sensor (IMO outdated technology) 36532-PAA-L02 is $45.79
on Rockauto.com. (Personally I'll stay away from Densos, but others may
differ).


Elle wrote:
> "Nasty" <nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote
> >I didn't mean to imply that there IS a generic that will
> >fit every car. I meant I bought one for my Accord that
> >didn't have the connector on it.
> >
> > Nonetheless, it doesn't work. So I bought a new Bosch
> > sensor.

>
> Like Misfit said, seriously consider OEM. Best prices I've
> found are at
> https://www.automedicsupply.com/
> They ship quickly. I used them a couple of years ago and am
> very pleased with the OEM sensor they sold and shipped me.


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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 25 Jun 2006, 05:10 am
Nasty
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Default Re: O2 sensor wiring question


<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1151214064.988081.101030@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
> (I used F23A1 in the search, OEM-type-connector for F23A4 differs but
> same universal planar sensor. This may be your problem?)
>
> Does your new sensors look like:
>
> The Bosch "universal" sensor with Posi-Lok with which the old connector
> is spliced onto the new planar sensor ($74.99), for both upstream of
> downstrem:
>
> http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=291&ptset=A


No.


> Or the Bosch OEM-connector planar sensor, upstream (primary) $89.99:
>
> http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=291&ptset=A


Yes.


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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 25 Jun 2006, 09:30 am
Elle
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Default Re: O2 sensor wiring question

<johngdole@hotmail.com> wrote
> Yeah. In that case just buy the Honda one and get it over
> with.
> Majestic sells it cheap (although not as cheap as some
> others posted).
> I just don't use Denso sensors,


The original OEM oxygen sensor that came out of my 1991
Civic was a Denso sensor (has the "ND" logo on it, which c.
1991 stood for "Nippon Denso," which today is just the
"Denso" company). Chances are yours is a Denso too.


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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 25 Jun 2006, 09:44 am
jim beam
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Default Re: O2 sensor wiring question

johngdole@hotmail.com wrote:
> (I used F23A1 in the search, OEM-type-connector for F23A4 differs but
> same universal planar sensor. This may be your problem?)
>
> Does your new sensors look like:
>
> The Bosch "universal" sensor with Posi-Lok with which the old connector
> is spliced onto the new planar sensor ($74.99), for both upstream of
> downstrem:
>
> http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=291&ptset=A
>
> Or the Bosch OEM-connector planar sensor, upstream (primary) $89.99:
>
> http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=291&ptset=A
>
> Denso thimble sensor (IMO outdated technology) 36532-PAA-L02 is $45.79
> on Rockauto.com. (Personally I'll stay away from Densos, but others may
> differ).


what's your problem with denso? be specific. my experience with bosch
is that they're short-lived and have slow reaction times. my experience
with denso otoh is exactly the opposite.

and just so you know, there's a fundamental difference in operation
between a zirconia sensor and a broadband [nernst] sensor - they're not
interchangeable and you can't use that as a basis for criticism.

>
>
> Elle wrote:
>
>>"Nasty" <nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote
>>
>>>I didn't mean to imply that there IS a generic that will
>>>fit every car. I meant I bought one for my Accord that
>>>didn't have the connector on it.
>>>
>>>Nonetheless, it doesn't work. So I bought a new Bosch
>>>sensor.

>>
>>Like Misfit said, seriously consider OEM. Best prices I've
>>found are at
>>https://www.automedicsupply.com/
>>They ship quickly. I used them a couple of years ago and am
>>very pleased with the OEM sensor they sold and shipped me.

>
>

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 25 Jun 2006, 09:45 am
jim beam
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: O2 sensor wiring question

johngdole@hotmail.com wrote:
> Yeah. In that case just buy the Honda one and get it over with.
> Majestic sells it cheap (although not as cheap as some others posted).
> I just don't use Denso sensors, Showa shocks or Honda brake fluids
> (made by CCI).
>
> The Bosch planar oxygen sensor I help installed worked fine and appear
> to fix the cat efficiency problem after these months. I think Bosch
> sensors are the best in class.


but /why/??? what's your basis for evaluation?

>
> http://www.boschautoparts.com/Produc...sors/CeramicO2
>
> As far as the "universal sensor" goes, it requires you to splice a
> segment of the old sensor wire, so you should actually have twice the
> length of the old sensor to work with!
>
> But you already spent twice.
>
>
> Nasty wrote:
>
>>I understand. But I've already bought two sensors that "the book" says will
>>work in my car,,, and don't. I've been dicking around with this too long
>>already and need to get it fixed.
>>
>>Thanks for the info though. I do appreciate it.

>
>

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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 25 Jun 2006, 10:54 pm
SoCalMike
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: O2 sensor wiring question

Nasty wrote:
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:aHkng.785$NP4.52@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink .net...
>> "Nasty" <nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote
>>> I didn't mean to imply that there IS a generic that will fit every car. I
>>> meant I bought one for my Accord that didn't have the connector on it.
>>>
>>> Nonetheless, it doesn't work. So I bought a new Bosch sensor.

>
> It doesn't work either and the pigtail is about 2-3" too short.
>
>> Like Misfit said, seriously consider OEM. Best prices I've found are at
>> https://www.automedicsupply.com/
>> They ship quickly. I used them a couple of years ago and am very pleased
>> with the OEM sensor they sold and shipped me.

>
> Thanks but I'm gonna bite the bullet and go to Honda on Monday. I've read
> some discussion that the VTec F23A4 has some quirks that make it so that
> only a Honda sensor will work. We'll see if that fixes it.
>
>

my 98 civic has an upper and a lower. the upper was $220 at the dealer,
the bottom one was much more expensive. i dont regret buying new from
the dealer, but only after my code scanner indicated which one was bad,
and an ohm reading of it confirmed the diagnosis.

all in all, it was a 10 minute job, even removing and replacing the heat
shield on the manifold, so i could use a regular closed-end wrench on it.
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