Honda Car Forum

#1 (**permalink**) 20 Jun 2006, 01:33 am

Greetings,
Next month I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 96 Accord 2.2
w/auto trans myself.. Are there any Honda peculiar tools I should buy that I
will need to get the job done. What is involved after removing the
transmission and torq conv? Any other parts I should replace while I'm doing
the job? Any advice/tricks/tips would be appreciated.
Greyhound

#2 (**permalink**) 20 Jun 2006, 08:27 am

Grey-hound wrote:
> Greetings,
> Next month I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 96 Accord 2.2
> w/auto trans myself.. Are there any Honda peculiar tools I should buy that I
> will need to get the job done. What is involved after removing the
> transmission and torq conv? Any other parts I should replace while I'm doing
> the job? Any advice/tricks/tips would be appreciated.
> Greyhound
>
>
before you go through that, potentially save yourself the brain damage
and swap to a decent engine oil that has good seal conditioners in it.
castrol gtx cleared up some dramatic leaks i was suffering while using
motorcraft oil.

it took a couple of weeks, but leaking /did/ stop.

#3 (**permalink**) 20 Jun 2006, 10:17 am

Recently switched from Castrol GTX to Quaker State and big time oil
leaks - the Quaker state looked thinner than the GTX when I was pouring
it into the engine - now I know why - thank you Jim Beam - it's back to
Castrol GTX.

#4 (**permalink**) 20 Jun 2006, 12:08 pm

butch burton wrote:
>
> Recently switched from Castrol GTX to Quaker State and big time oil
> leaks - the Quaker state looked thinner than the GTX when I was pouring
> it into the engine - now I know why - thank you Jim Beam - it's back to
> Castrol GTX.

Quaker State is *crap* when compared to Castrol or Valvoline.

JT

#5 (**permalink**) 21 Jun 2006, 12:52 am

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:lrWdnXkuvr9OagrZnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> Grey-hound wrote:
>> Greetings,
>> Next month I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 96 Accord
>> 2.2 w/auto trans myself.. Are there any Honda peculiar tools I should buy
>> that I will need to get the job done. What is involved after removing the
>> transmission and torq conv? Any other parts I should replace while I'm
>> doing the job? Any advice/tricks/tips would be appreciated.
>> Greyhound
> before you go through that, potentially save yourself the brain damage and
> swap to a decent engine oil that has good seal conditioners in it. castrol
> gtx cleared up some dramatic leaks i was suffering while using motorcraft
> oil.
>
> it took a couple of weeks, but leaking /did/ stop.

Been using the Castrol High Mileage 10w-30 for an oil change plus 6 quarts
that I ran through it. Just need the mechanical details that the shop manual
left out.
Planning it for my vacation next month and I want to make it as enjoyable as
it can get.
Please, Please, no more on oil-volumes have been written.
Greyhound

#6 (**permalink**) 21 Jun 2006, 08:48 am

Grey-hound wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
> news:lrWdnXkuvr9OagrZnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>
>>Grey-hound wrote:
>>
>>>Greetings,
>>>Next month I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 96 Accord
>>>2.2 w/auto trans myself.. Are there any Honda peculiar tools I should buy
>>>that I will need to get the job done. What is involved after removing the
>>>transmission and torq conv? Any other parts I should replace while I'm
>>>doing the job? Any advice/tricks/tips would be appreciated.
>>>Greyhound
>>
>>before you go through that, potentially save yourself the brain damage and
>>swap to a decent engine oil that has good seal conditioners in it. castrol
>>gtx cleared up some dramatic leaks i was suffering while using motorcraft
>>oil.
>>
>>it took a couple of weeks, but leaking /did/ stop.
>
>
> Been using the Castrol High Mileage 10w-30 for an oil change plus 6 quarts
> that I ran through it. Just need the mechanical details that the shop manual
> left out.
> Planning it for my vacation next month and I want to make it as enjoyable as
> it can get.
> Please, Please, no more on oil-volumes have been written.
> Greyhound
>
>
ok - bad luck.

in that case, the only tool that springs to mind is a splitter for the
bottom ball joints. once those are separated, you can swing the drive
shafts out of the way ready to drop the whole engine/tranny unit. look
on tegger.com for examples.

#7 (**permalink**) 21 Jun 2006, 09:49 am

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:uKKdnQ3PIc640wTZnZ2dnUVZ_qOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> Grey-hound wrote:
>> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
>> news:lrWdnXkuvr9OagrZnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>>
>>>Grey-hound wrote:
>>>
>>>>Greetings,
>>>>Next month I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 96 Accord
>>>>2.2 w/auto trans myself.. Are there any Honda peculiar tools I should
>>>>buy that I will need to get the job done. What is involved after
>>>>removing the transmission and torq conv? Any other parts I should
>>>>replace while I'm doing the job? Any advice/tricks/tips would be
>>>>appreciated.
>>>>Greyhound
>>>
>>>before you go through that, potentially save yourself the brain damage
>>>and swap to a decent engine oil that has good seal conditioners in it.
>>>castrol gtx cleared up some dramatic leaks i was suffering while using
>>>motorcraft oil.
>>>
>>>it took a couple of weeks, but leaking /did/ stop.
>>
>>
>> Been using the Castrol High Mileage 10w-30 for an oil change plus 6
>> quarts
>> that I ran through it. Just need the mechanical details that the shop
>> manual left out.
>> Planning it for my vacation next month and I want to make it as enjoyable
>> as it can get.
>> Please, Please, no more on oil-volumes have been written.
>> Greyhound
> ok - bad luck.
>
> in that case, the only tool that springs to mind is a splitter for the
> bottom ball joints. once those are separated, you can swing the drive
> shafts out of the way ready to drop the whole engine/tranny unit. look on
> tegger.com for examples.
Thanks
Greyhound

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