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Greetings,
Next month I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 96 Accord 2.2 w/auto trans myself.. Are there any Honda peculiar tools I should buy that I will need to get the job done. What is involved after removing the transmission and torq conv? Any other parts I should replace while I'm doing the job? Any advice/tricks/tips would be appreciated. Greyhound |
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Grey-hound wrote:
> Greetings, > Next month I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 96 Accord 2.2 > w/auto trans myself.. Are there any Honda peculiar tools I should buy that I > will need to get the job done. What is involved after removing the > transmission and torq conv? Any other parts I should replace while I'm doing > the job? Any advice/tricks/tips would be appreciated. > Greyhound > > before you go through that, potentially save yourself the brain damage and swap to a decent engine oil that has good seal conditioners in it. castrol gtx cleared up some dramatic leaks i was suffering while using motorcraft oil. it took a couple of weeks, but leaking /did/ stop. |
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Recently switched from Castrol GTX to Quaker State and big time oil
leaks - the Quaker state looked thinner than the GTX when I was pouring it into the engine - now I know why - thank you Jim Beam - it's back to Castrol GTX. |
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butch burton wrote: > > Recently switched from Castrol GTX to Quaker State and big time oil > leaks - the Quaker state looked thinner than the GTX when I was pouring > it into the engine - now I know why - thank you Jim Beam - it's back to > Castrol GTX. Quaker State is *crap* when compared to Castrol or Valvoline. JT |
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"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:lrWdnXkuvr9OagrZnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... > Grey-hound wrote: >> Greetings, >> Next month I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 96 Accord >> 2.2 w/auto trans myself.. Are there any Honda peculiar tools I should buy >> that I will need to get the job done. What is involved after removing the >> transmission and torq conv? Any other parts I should replace while I'm >> doing the job? Any advice/tricks/tips would be appreciated. >> Greyhound > before you go through that, potentially save yourself the brain damage and > swap to a decent engine oil that has good seal conditioners in it. castrol > gtx cleared up some dramatic leaks i was suffering while using motorcraft > oil. > > it took a couple of weeks, but leaking /did/ stop. Been using the Castrol High Mileage 10w-30 for an oil change plus 6 quarts that I ran through it. Just need the mechanical details that the shop manual left out. Planning it for my vacation next month and I want to make it as enjoyable as it can get. Please, Please, no more on oil-volumes have been written. Greyhound |
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Grey-hound wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message > news:lrWdnXkuvr9OagrZnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... > >>Grey-hound wrote: >> >>>Greetings, >>>Next month I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 96 Accord >>>2.2 w/auto trans myself.. Are there any Honda peculiar tools I should buy >>>that I will need to get the job done. What is involved after removing the >>>transmission and torq conv? Any other parts I should replace while I'm >>>doing the job? Any advice/tricks/tips would be appreciated. >>>Greyhound >> >>before you go through that, potentially save yourself the brain damage and >>swap to a decent engine oil that has good seal conditioners in it. castrol >>gtx cleared up some dramatic leaks i was suffering while using motorcraft >>oil. >> >>it took a couple of weeks, but leaking /did/ stop. > > > Been using the Castrol High Mileage 10w-30 for an oil change plus 6 quarts > that I ran through it. Just need the mechanical details that the shop manual > left out. > Planning it for my vacation next month and I want to make it as enjoyable as > it can get. > Please, Please, no more on oil-volumes have been written. > Greyhound > > ok - bad luck. in that case, the only tool that springs to mind is a splitter for the bottom ball joints. once those are separated, you can swing the drive shafts out of the way ready to drop the whole engine/tranny unit. look on tegger.com for examples. |
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"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message news:uKKdnQ3PIc640wTZnZ2dnUVZ_qOdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... > Grey-hound wrote: >> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message >> news:lrWdnXkuvr9OagrZnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t... >> >>>Grey-hound wrote: >>> >>>>Greetings, >>>>Next month I am planning on replacing the rear main seal on my 96 Accord >>>>2.2 w/auto trans myself.. Are there any Honda peculiar tools I should >>>>buy that I will need to get the job done. What is involved after >>>>removing the transmission and torq conv? Any other parts I should >>>>replace while I'm doing the job? Any advice/tricks/tips would be >>>>appreciated. >>>>Greyhound >>> >>>before you go through that, potentially save yourself the brain damage >>>and swap to a decent engine oil that has good seal conditioners in it. >>>castrol gtx cleared up some dramatic leaks i was suffering while using >>>motorcraft oil. >>> >>>it took a couple of weeks, but leaking /did/ stop. >> >> >> Been using the Castrol High Mileage 10w-30 for an oil change plus 6 >> quarts >> that I ran through it. Just need the mechanical details that the shop >> manual left out. >> Planning it for my vacation next month and I want to make it as enjoyable >> as it can get. >> Please, Please, no more on oil-volumes have been written. >> Greyhound > ok - bad luck. > > in that case, the only tool that springs to mind is a splitter for the > bottom ball joints. once those are separated, you can swing the drive > shafts out of the way ready to drop the whole engine/tranny unit. look on > tegger.com for examples. Thanks Greyhound |
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