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does it have a 5 speed transmission -- johnin ----------------------------------------------------------------------- View this thread: http://www.carstalk.net/viewtopic-413422.htm Send from http://www.carstalk.ne |
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It's an automatic.
I've cleared the engine of fuel - disconnected power to the fuel pump and the injectors. Cranked the engine. Took out the spark plugs and dried them overnight. Put everything back together and pressed gas pedal to the floor and cranked. Still just crank crank and crank, didn't even cough. Then took out spark plugs, and this time, at least they're dry, and not soak with gas. Any other suggestions? I don't have a timing gun to check the timing. I would like to be able to rule out everything else first. Thanks again. |
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ucmbt@yahoo.ca wrote:
> Also, even if I have a timing light/gun, how do I adjust ignition > timing if the engine doesn't even run? > you don't - the middle position in the distributor housing will start the car if everything else it working ok. once started, you can adjust. but leave it where it is for now. getting back to your no-start condition, another question: did you disassemble the distributor to check it for operation? you say the distributor arm rotates ok, but is the screw that holds the arm on still in there? i ask because the rotor arm is not keyed on most hondas, so if the screw has come out, the arm is free to rotate, even though it'll remain on the shaft because it's held on by the distributor cap. if rotated, this will still give plenty of spark on any plug when testing, but now it'll be the wrong plug at the wrong time. this would kill the vehicle on the freeway also. |
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Yes, the set screw for the rotor is still there and is very tight -
also the shaft is keyed to the rotor - the rotor cannot rotote freely about the shaft even if the set screw is gone. Any other ideas please? |
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ucmbt@yahoo.ca wrote:
> It's an automatic. > > I've cleared the engine of fuel - disconnected power to the fuel pump > and the injectors. Cranked the engine. Took out the spark plugs and > dried them overnight. > > Put everything back together and pressed gas pedal to the floor and > cranked. Still just crank crank and crank, didn't even cough. Then > took out spark plugs, and this time, at least they're dry, and not soak > with gas. > > Any other suggestions? I don't have a timing gun to check the timing. > I would like to be able to rule out everything else first. Thanks > again. > main relay not letting the fuel pump run? otherwise the plugs would at least be a little damp, right? |
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ucmbt@yahoo.ca wrote:
> As I said in my original, the main relay is working. The plugs are a > little damp I should say - but definitely not soaked like before. > > Does any one have any other suggestions please? > sorry to say this, but from this distance, i can't help any more. if this vehicle were in my garage, i'd go right back to basics and work through every part of the diagnostic chain. and i mean, right from the very start, including cam timing, all the sensors and their wiring, the lot. clearly there's something wrong. clearly, it has to be detectable on some level. even experienced old farts like me make mistakes they shouldn't occasionally because they assume "component x" is ok when it isn't and spend serious time and money hunting ghosts further down the chain. if you don't already have it, the helm manual is a great investment. |
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In article <usSdndUtNK0d9PjZnZ2dnUVZ_v6dnZ2d@comcast.com>, SoCalMike
<Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote: ucmbt@yahoo.ca wrote: > It's an automatic. > > I've cleared the engine of fuel - disconnected power to the fuel pump > and the injectors. Cranked the engine. Took out the spark plugs and > dried them overnight. > > Put everything back together and pressed gas pedal to the floor and > cranked. Still just crank crank and crank, didn't even cough. Then > took out spark plugs, and this time, at least they're dry, and not soak > with gas. > > Any other suggestions? I don't have a timing gun to check the timing. > I would like to be able to rule out everything else first. Thanks > again. > main relay not letting the fuel pump run? otherwise the plugs would at least be a little damp, right? Hello, These are some of the causes of the problem that you are having. I copied them from my Haynes Repair Manual from the section entitled: "Engine rotates but will not start" Fuel tank empty. Leaking fuel injectors. faulty fuel pump and/or pressure regulator. Fuel not reaching fuel rail. Ignition components damp or damaged. Worn or faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit. Loose distributor is changing ignition timing. Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil. Broken or stripped timing belt. Defective fuel pump relay and/or harness at relay. |
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