Honda Car Forum

Car: 95 Civic LX
Problem: Engine cranks, but will not start
What has been done so far:

1) Replaced spark plugs - and tested that there are sparks while
cranking (by attaching a spark plug to a spark plug wire, and grounding
the plug on the valve cover - tried this for all 4 plugs and wires)-
i.e. ignition wires and distributor cap/rotor (brand new) are good.
Also, checked resistance of all ignition wires - all are way below
25,000 ohms

2) Check Engine light goes out after 2 seconds when the key is in the
"ON" position and I can hear the fuel pump prime during those 2 seconds
- so, fuel pump and main relay should be good

3) Can smell gas while cranking - fuel is delivered to the engine
without problems. Also, after removing a spark plug, I can see the
spark plug is soaked with gasoline - so there IS fuel in the engine -
so, fuel pump and main relay should be good

4) Since the engine cranks, then the starter should be good

5) Battery is fully charged using an external charger - so there's
plenty of juice

6) Based on the above, ECU should be good - since the check engine
light goes out after 2 seconds when the key is in the "ON" position.
I've also tried an ECU that's known to be working properly - still the
engine won't start.

7) Timing belt is definitely not broken - I saw the valves move up and
down while peeking in the oil filler hole. Also, the distributor rotor
rotates while cranking.

8) Dry compression test results:
cylinder #1 has 100psi of compression
cylinder #2 has 100psi of compression
cylinder #3 has 130psi of compression
cylinder #4 has 80psi of compression

9) Wet compression test results (after putting a few drops of oil in
each combustion chamber):
cylinder #1 has 150psi of compression
cylinder #2 has 150psi of compression
cylinder #3 has 140psi of compression
cylinder #4 has 130psi of compression

10) Tried spraying starting fluid into the air intake/throttle body.
The engine didn't cough at all.

11) If I take out all the spark plugs and dry them out over night
(they are soaked with gas), and then put them in, I can hear the engine
cough once, then it's back to crank, crank, crank and the spark plugs
will be soaked with fuel again. It seems like the spark plugs are not
able to ignite the fuel, or maybe there's too much fuel?

12) About 3 months ago, car was running fine on the highway, then the
engine stopped completely. Engine would NOT restart. Had to tow it.
Since then, the car has sat on a flat garage floor for 3 months. Gas
tank is 1/2 full.

Please help! Any other things to check/test? What do you think the
problem is?

Could it be the ignitor, even though there's spark on the spark plugs?
Could it be the sparks are not strong enough? How to test whether the
spark is strong enough? The sparks can jump a 1/2" gap between the
spark plug and group.

Please let me know. Thanks in advance for your help!

ucmbt@yahoo.ca wrote:

> 1) Replaced spark plugs - and tested that there are sparks while
> cranking (by attaching a spark plug to a spark plug wire, and grounding
> the plug on the valve cover - tried this for all 4 plugs and wires)-
> i.e. ignition wires and distributor cap/rotor (brand new) are good.
> Also, checked resistance of all ignition wires - all are way below
> 25,000 ohms
>
Are these new parts OEM or aftermarket? OEM is strongly recommended.


> 3) Can smell gas while cranking - fuel is delivered to the engine
> without problems. Also, after removing a spark plug, I can see the
> spark plug is soaked with gasoline - so there IS fuel in the engine -
> so, fuel pump and main relay should be good

It could be flooded. Hold the gas pedal down while cranking for about 10-15
seconds.

ucmbt@yahoo.ca wrote:
> Car: 95 Civic LX
> Problem: Engine cranks, but will not start
> What has been done so far:
>
> 1) Replaced spark plugs - and tested that there are sparks while
> cranking (by attaching a spark plug to a spark plug wire, and grounding
> the plug on the valve cover - tried this for all 4 plugs and wires)-
> i.e. ignition wires and distributor cap/rotor (brand new) are good.
> Also, checked resistance of all ignition wires - all are way below
> 25,000 ohms
>
> 2) Check Engine light goes out after 2 seconds when the key is in the
> "ON" position and I can hear the fuel pump prime during those 2 seconds
> - so, fuel pump and main relay should be good
>
> 3) Can smell gas while cranking - fuel is delivered to the engine
> without problems. Also, after removing a spark plug, I can see the
> spark plug is soaked with gasoline - so there IS fuel in the engine -
> so, fuel pump and main relay should be good
>
> 4) Since the engine cranks, then the starter should be good
>
> 5) Battery is fully charged using an external charger - so there's
> plenty of juice
>
> 6) Based on the above, ECU should be good - since the check engine
> light goes out after 2 seconds when the key is in the "ON" position.
> I've also tried an ECU that's known to be working properly - still the
> engine won't start.
>
> 7) Timing belt is definitely not broken - I saw the valves move up and
> down while peeking in the oil filler hole. Also, the distributor rotor
> rotates while cranking.
>
> 8) Dry compression test results:
> cylinder #1 has 100psi of compression
> cylinder #2 has 100psi of compression
> cylinder #3 has 130psi of compression
> cylinder #4 has 80psi of compression
>
> 9) Wet compression test results (after putting a few drops of oil in
> each combustion chamber):
> cylinder #1 has 150psi of compression
> cylinder #2 has 150psi of compression
> cylinder #3 has 140psi of compression
> cylinder #4 has 130psi of compression
>
> 10) Tried spraying starting fluid into the air intake/throttle body.
> The engine didn't cough at all.
>
> 11) If I take out all the spark plugs and dry them out over night
> (they are soaked with gas), and then put them in, I can hear the engine
> cough once, then it's back to crank, crank, crank and the spark plugs
> will be soaked with fuel again. It seems like the spark plugs are not
> able to ignite the fuel, or maybe there's too much fuel?
>
> 12) About 3 months ago, car was running fine on the highway, then the
> engine stopped completely. Engine would NOT restart. Had to tow it.
> Since then, the car has sat on a flat garage floor for 3 months. Gas
> tank is 1/2 full.
>
> Please help! Any other things to check/test? What do you think the
> problem is?
>
> Could it be the ignitor, even though there's spark on the spark plugs?
> Could it be the sparks are not strong enough? How to test whether the
> spark is strong enough? The sparks can jump a 1/2" gap between the
> spark plug and group.
>
> Please let me know. Thanks in advance for your help!

Do you have a way to check for fuel pressure?

Another 'basic' would be air and the sensors related to it. MAP sensor
and IAT sensor are used to calculate air flow by the ECM so if one of
those is defective, it might dump too much fuel into the cylinders,
causing flooding.

Remco

The parts are all OEM Honda parts. I've tried holding the gas pedal
down while cranking for 20 seconds. The Engine still won't start.

No, I don't have a way to check for fuel pressure. But I would like to
test the MAP and IAT sensors - can you explain where those sensors are
and how to test them? Thanks!

Also, is there a way to determine whether the sparks are strong enough?
I've read somewhere that strong sparks should be blue? However, my
sparks are yellowish. Does this mean my sparks are not strong enough?

In article <1147321782.662045.217340@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups .com>,
ucmbt@yahoo.ca wrote:

Car: 95 Civic LX
Problem: Engine cranks, but will not start
What has been done so far:

1) Replaced spark plugs - and tested that there are sparks while
cranking (by attaching a spark plug to a spark plug wire, and grounding
the plug on the valve cover - tried this for all 4 plugs and wires)-
i.e. ignition wires and distributor cap/rotor (brand new) are good.
Also, checked resistance of all ignition wires - all are way below
25,000 ohms

2) Check Engine light goes out after 2 seconds when the key is in the
"ON" position and I can hear the fuel pump prime during those 2 seconds
- so, fuel pump and main relay should be good

3) Can smell gas while cranking - fuel is delivered to the engine
without problems. Also, after removing a spark plug, I can see the
spark plug is soaked with gasoline - so there IS fuel in the engine -
so, fuel pump and main relay should be good

4) Since the engine cranks, then the starter should be good

5) Battery is fully charged using an external charger - so there's
plenty of juice

6) Based on the above, ECU should be good - since the check engine
light goes out after 2 seconds when the key is in the "ON" position.
I've also tried an ECU that's known to be working properly - still the
engine won't start.

7) Timing belt is definitely not broken - I saw the valves move up and
down while peeking in the oil filler hole. Also, the distributor rotor
rotates while cranking.

8) Dry compression test results:
cylinder #1 has 100psi of compression
cylinder #2 has 100psi of compression
cylinder #3 has 130psi of compression
cylinder #4 has 80psi of compression

9) Wet compression test results (after putting a few drops of oil in
each combustion chamber):
cylinder #1 has 150psi of compression
cylinder #2 has 150psi of compression
cylinder #3 has 140psi of compression
cylinder #4 has 130psi of compression

10) Tried spraying starting fluid into the air intake/throttle body.
The engine didn't cough at all.

11) If I take out all the spark plugs and dry them out over night
(they are soaked with gas), and then put them in, I can hear the engine
cough once, then it's back to crank, crank, crank and the spark plugs
will be soaked with fuel again. It seems like the spark plugs are not
able to ignite the fuel, or maybe there's too much fuel?

12) About 3 months ago, car was running fine on the highway, then the
engine stopped completely. Engine would NOT restart. Had to tow it.
Since then, the car has sat on a flat garage floor for 3 months. Gas
tank is 1/2 full.

Please help! Any other things to check/test? What do you think the
problem is?

Could it be the ignitor, even though there's spark on the spark plugs?
Could it be the sparks are not strong enough? How to test whether the
spark is strong enough? The sparks can jump a 1/2" gap between the
spark plug and group.

Please let me know. Thanks in advance for your help!

Hello,
I suggest that you buy a repair manual for your car.
I took a list of the reasons (in my Haynes Repair manual) for
"Engine Rotates but Will Not Start".
The only things that you failed to mention (unless I missed it) were

Loose distributor is changing ignition timing.

Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or a faulty coil.

Dirty gasoline or gasoline that has water in it.

Timing is not set properly.

ucmbt@yahoo.ca wrote:
>Car: 95 Civic LX
>Problem: Engine cranks, but will not start
>What has been done so far:
>
>1) Replaced spark plugs - and tested that there are sparks while
>cranking (by attaching a spark plug to a spark plug wire, and grounding
>the plug on the valve cover - tried this for all 4 plugs and wires)-
>i.e. ignition wires and distributor cap/rotor (brand new) are good.
>Also, checked resistance of all ignition wires - all are way below
>25,000 ohms
>
>2) Check Engine light goes out after 2 seconds when the key is in the
>"ON" position and I can hear the fuel pump prime during those 2 seconds
>- so, fuel pump and main relay should be good
>
>3) Can smell gas while cranking - fuel is delivered to the engine
>without problems. Also, after removing a spark plug, I can see the
>spark plug is soaked with gasoline - so there IS fuel in the engine -
>so, fuel pump and main relay should be good
>
>4) Since the engine cranks, then the starter should be good
>
>5) Battery is fully charged using an external charger - so there's
>plenty of juice
>
>6) Based on the above, ECU should be good - since the check engine
>light goes out after 2 seconds when the key is in the "ON" position.
>I've also tried an ECU that's known to be working properly - still the
>engine won't start.
>
>7) Timing belt is definitely not broken - I saw the valves move up and
>down while peeking in the oil filler hole. Also, the distributor rotor
>rotates while cranking.
>
>8) Dry compression test results:
>cylinder #1 has 100psi of compression
>cylinder #2 has 100psi of compression
>cylinder #3 has 130psi of compression
>cylinder #4 has 80psi of compression
>
>9) Wet compression test results (after putting a few drops of oil in
>each combustion chamber):
>cylinder #1 has 150psi of compression
>cylinder #2 has 150psi of compression
>cylinder #3 has 140psi of compression
>cylinder #4 has 130psi of compression
>
>10) Tried spraying starting fluid into the air intake/throttle body.
>The engine didn't cough at all.
>
>11) If I take out all the spark plugs and dry them out over night
>(they are soaked with gas), and then put them in, I can hear the engine
>cough once, then it's back to crank, crank, crank and the spark plugs
>will be soaked with fuel again. It seems like the spark plugs are not
>able to ignite the fuel, or maybe there's too much fuel?
>
>12) About 3 months ago, car was running fine on the highway, then the
>engine stopped completely. Engine would NOT restart. Had to tow it.
>Since then, the car has sat on a flat garage floor for 3 months. Gas
>tank is 1/2 full.
>
>Please help! Any other things to check/test? What do you think the
>problem is?
>
>Could it be the ignitor, even though there's spark on the spark plugs?
>Could it be the sparks are not strong enough? How to test whether the
>spark is strong enough? The sparks can jump a 1/2" gap between the
>spark plug and group.
>
>Please let me know. Thanks in advance for your help!
do you have spark did you try to hold gas pedal to fllor maybe engine is
flood #4 cyc is low compression also

Yes, I have tried holding the gas pedal to floor and crank. But the
engine still won't start. How long am I supposed to crank the engine
while holding the gas pedal to floor? I've tried it for about 10
seconds. Should I try longer?

Also, will a bad Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor cause the engine
not to start?

ucmbt@yahoo.ca wrote:
> Car: 95 Civic LX
> Problem: Engine cranks, but will not start
> What has been done so far:
>
> 1) Replaced spark plugs - and tested that there are sparks while
> cranking (by attaching a spark plug to a spark plug wire, and grounding
> the plug on the valve cover - tried this for all 4 plugs and wires)-
> i.e. ignition wires and distributor cap/rotor (brand new) are good.
> Also, checked resistance of all ignition wires - all are way below
> 25,000 ohms
>
> 2) Check Engine light goes out after 2 seconds when the key is in the
> "ON" position and I can hear the fuel pump prime during those 2 seconds
> - so, fuel pump and main relay should be good
>
> 3) Can smell gas while cranking - fuel is delivered to the engine
> without problems. Also, after removing a spark plug, I can see the
> spark plug is soaked with gasoline - so there IS fuel in the engine -
> so, fuel pump and main relay should be good
>
> 4) Since the engine cranks, then the starter should be good
>
> 5) Battery is fully charged using an external charger - so there's
> plenty of juice
>
> 6) Based on the above, ECU should be good - since the check engine
> light goes out after 2 seconds when the key is in the "ON" position.
> I've also tried an ECU that's known to be working properly - still the
> engine won't start.
>
> 7) Timing belt is definitely not broken - I saw the valves move up and
> down while peeking in the oil filler hole. Also, the distributor rotor
> rotates while cranking.
>
> 8) Dry compression test results:
> cylinder #1 has 100psi of compression
> cylinder #2 has 100psi of compression
> cylinder #3 has 130psi of compression
> cylinder #4 has 80psi of compression
>
> 9) Wet compression test results (after putting a few drops of oil in
> each combustion chamber):
> cylinder #1 has 150psi of compression
> cylinder #2 has 150psi of compression
> cylinder #3 has 140psi of compression
> cylinder #4 has 130psi of compression
>
> 10) Tried spraying starting fluid into the air intake/throttle body.
> The engine didn't cough at all.
>
> 11) If I take out all the spark plugs and dry them out over night
> (they are soaked with gas), and then put them in, I can hear the engine
> cough once, then it's back to crank, crank, crank and the spark plugs
> will be soaked with fuel again. It seems like the spark plugs are not
> able to ignite the fuel, or maybe there's too much fuel?
>
> 12) About 3 months ago, car was running fine on the highway, then the
> engine stopped completely. Engine would NOT restart. Had to tow it.
> Since then, the car has sat on a flat garage floor for 3 months. Gas
> tank is 1/2 full.
>
> Please help! Any other things to check/test? What do you think the
> problem is?
>
> Could it be the ignitor, even though there's spark on the spark plugs?
> Could it be the sparks are not strong enough? How to test whether the
> spark is strong enough? The sparks can jump a 1/2" gap between the
> spark plug and group.
>
> Please let me know. Thanks in advance for your help!
>
what error code are you getting from the ecu?

No error codes from the ECU. But I've heard that the ECU doesn't
record any codes until the engine is running?

ucmbt@yahoo.ca wrote:
> No error codes from the ECU.

ok.

> But I've heard that the ECU doesn't
> record any codes until the engine is running?

no, it records any errors it finds on boot. running errors are added later.

getting back to the diagnostic, does the fuel smell ok? are there any
vacuum hoses missing? brake booster ok? all sensor connections ok? no
loose leads? the motor earth connector ok?

regarding the igniter, they can have a funny failure mode sometimes -
there's spark, but it's "confused". check out tegger's site for details
and how to test.

a couple of more things:
1. i'd be careful how much fuel is accumulating in the oil with all this
"wet" cranking.
2. to be sure you're clearing out excess fuel residues, i'd crank the
motor for a while with the plugs out and the injector leads disconnected
- should disperse it.