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I have an '88 CRX HF with 175,000 miles on it. The engine shudders
pretty violently when the accelerator pedal is held at a particular spot in its range of travel. It occurs in any gear, at any RPM. It is more noticeable at lower RPMs probably due to the lower inertia of the reciprocating mass. If I press the pedal down past this point, say ~1cm, it goes away. Similarly, if I let up on the pedal the same distance, the shaking also stops. Car has new plug wires, new O2 sensor (Bosch), new distributor, and a MotorVac flush service done. Its also had a new timing belt put in and a valve adjustment done in the past 25k.I suspect it could be the throttle position sensor, but I'm not familiar with its construction. Is it possible that it could have worn out in this spot and is sending bad/no signals? Any other ideas? On a related or unrelated note, the car also idles erratically, sometimes too high (1100RPM), sometimes too low (250RPM), sometimes it bounces between 900-1100RPM. A Honda tech told me my accelerator cable was too tight. I haven't fooled with that yet. |
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djathens wrote:
> I have an '88 CRX HF with 175,000 miles on it. The engine shudders > pretty violently when the accelerator pedal is held at a particular > spot in its range of travel. It occurs in any gear, at any RPM. It is > more noticeable at lower RPMs probably due to the lower inertia of the > reciprocating mass. If I press the pedal down past this point, say > ~1cm, it goes away. Similarly, if I let up on the pedal the same > distance, the shaking also stops. > > Car has new plug wires, new O2 sensor (Bosch), new distributor, and a > MotorVac flush service done. Its also had a new timing belt put in and > a valve adjustment done in the past 25k.I suspect it could be the > throttle position sensor, but I'm not familiar with its construction. > Is it possible that it could have worn out in this spot and is sending > bad/no signals? Any other ideas? > > On a related or unrelated note, the car also idles erratically, > sometimes too high (1100RPM), sometimes too low (250RPM), sometimes it > bounces between 900-1100RPM. A Honda tech told me my accelerator cable > was too tight. I haven't fooled with that yet. > first things first: check the ecu for error codes. go to tegger.com to see how it's done. report beck accordingly. |
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Non-OEM O2 sensors being behind poor performance has come up
here before. I echo Misfit's suggestion. https://www.automedicsupply.com/ has OEM ones for about $35 total for your 88 CRX. I bought a new OEM O2 sensor here a few years ago for my 91 Civic. No problems in the transaction. Works great. Also, thoroughly purge the cooling system of air. Various idle control components are cooled by it. Air in it will cause sub-optimal idling, among other things. Make sure the fan comes on twice during the purge process. From cold engine to fan coming on twice may take over 40 minutes. It does on my 91 Civic. "djathens" <djathens2@yahoo.com> wrote >I have an '88 CRX HF with 175,000 miles on it. The engine >shudders > pretty violently when the accelerator pedal is held at a > particular > spot in its range of travel. It occurs in any gear, at any > RPM. It is > more noticeable at lower RPMs probably due to the lower > inertia of the > reciprocating mass. If I press the pedal down past this > point, say > ~1cm, it goes away. Similarly, if I let up on the pedal > the same > distance, the shaking also stops. > > Car has new plug wires, new O2 sensor (Bosch), new > distributor, and a > MotorVac flush service done. Its also had a new timing > belt put in and > a valve adjustment done in the past 25k.I suspect it could > be the > throttle position sensor, but I'm not familiar with its > construction. > Is it possible that it could have worn out in this spot > and is sending > bad/no signals? Any other ideas? > > On a related or unrelated note, the car also idles > erratically, > sometimes too high (1100RPM), sometimes too low (250RPM), > sometimes it > bounces between 900-1100RPM. A Honda tech told me my > accelerator cable > was too tight. I haven't fooled with that yet. > |
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I placed an order for the OEM sensor, and downloaded the PDF for
checking the codes. How do I go about purging the cooling system of air? I'll post results when I get them. On a side note, does 43-44mpg sound about right for an '88 w/175k? |
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"djathens" <djathens2@yahoo.com> wrote
>I placed an order for the OEM sensor, and downloaded the >PDF for > checking the codes. How do I go about purging the cooling > system of > air? A factory service manual for your 88 CRX is free online at http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html . See the procedure for purging (= bleeding) under Engine, Radiator. > On a side note, does 43-44mpg sound about right for an '88 > w/175k? fueleconomy.gov reports that the 1988 CRX HF should get at least 45 mpg in the city and at least 53 mpg highway. That might be worth nothing. There are some online CRX groups that you might ask. The Usenet archives (groups.googling for 88 CRX mpg) turns up a wide range, with yours appearing to be about in the middle. My 91 Civic has 176k miles on it. Fueleconomy.gov reports 31/35 city/highway. Yet it averages about 40 mpg year-round. From online reports of other c. 91 Civic owners, that's pretty usual for a properly maintained one. Your engine has the same displacement as mine (1.5 L) but yours is MPFI (mine is DPFI) and 8-valve SOHC (mine is 16). Also, I suppose your CRX is notably lighter in weight. Some fuel economy-oriented maintenance tips: http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id11.html If the car has never had its PCV valve replaced, I'd do that, first. I replaced my 91 Civic's at 138k miles, and this made a huge difference in gas mileage, like 10% or so. The valve was badly fouled with waxy buildup. |
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Replaced the O2 sensor today with Denso OEM from automedic. Took a
short drive in rush hour and I believe this solved the problem. I heard that it is good to clear the ECU of codes when you install a new sensor. Is this true? If so, I heard the radio needs a security code to function again if the battery is disconnected long enough to clear the ECU. Anyone know where to find the code? Thanks for all the help. This is my first Honda, and it's comforting to know there is such great support online. : ) |
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Actually, unfortunately, the problem is still happening, to a lesser
degree. I can't find the stutter until I am in fourth or fifth gear, and really looking for it, but it's still there. So I guess I'll reset the ECU when I can, and try the other procedures listed in the thread....dang. |
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djathens wrote:
> > I have an '88 CRX HF with 175,000 miles on it. The engine shudders > pretty violently when the accelerator pedal is held at a particular > spot in its range of travel. It occurs in any gear, at any RPM. It is > more noticeable at lower RPMs probably due to the lower inertia of the > reciprocating mass. If I press the pedal down past this point, say > ~1cm, it goes away. Similarly, if I let up on the pedal the same > distance, the shaking also stops. > > Car has new plug wires, new O2 sensor (Bosch), new distributor, and a > MotorVac flush service done. Its also had a new timing belt put in and > a valve adjustment done in the past 25k.I suspect it could be the > throttle position sensor, but I'm not familiar with its construction. > Is it possible that it could have worn out in this spot and is sending > bad/no signals? Any other ideas? > > On a related or unrelated note, the car also idles erratically, > sometimes too high (1100RPM), sometimes too low (250RPM), sometimes it > bounces between 900-1100RPM. A Honda tech told me my accelerator cable > was too tight. I haven't fooled with that yet. ---------------------------------------- If it had a Throttle Position Sensor in it, I'd vote for that, but it's too old for that, right? 'Curly' |
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'Curly Q. Links' wrote:
> djathens wrote: > >>I have an '88 CRX HF with 175,000 miles on it. The engine shudders >>pretty violently when the accelerator pedal is held at a particular >>spot in its range of travel. It occurs in any gear, at any RPM. It is >>more noticeable at lower RPMs probably due to the lower inertia of the >>reciprocating mass. If I press the pedal down past this point, say >>~1cm, it goes away. Similarly, if I let up on the pedal the same >>distance, the shaking also stops. >> >>Car has new plug wires, new O2 sensor (Bosch), new distributor, and a >>MotorVac flush service done. Its also had a new timing belt put in and >>a valve adjustment done in the past 25k.I suspect it could be the >>throttle position sensor, but I'm not familiar with its construction. >>Is it possible that it could have worn out in this spot and is sending >>bad/no signals? Any other ideas? >> >>On a related or unrelated note, the car also idles erratically, >>sometimes too high (1100RPM), sometimes too low (250RPM), sometimes it >>bounces between 900-1100RPM. A Honda tech told me my accelerator cable >>was too tight. I haven't fooled with that yet. > > > > ---------------------------------------- > > If it had a Throttle Position Sensor in it, I'd vote for that, but it's > too old for that, right? > > 'Curly' curly, the o.p. /still/ hasn't bothered to check for codes afaict. in my experience, tps problems /definitely/ show on the ecu. |
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