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"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:2Mr8g.1053$Jf.542@newsread4.news.pas.earthlin k.net: > > More importantly, I just emailed Merle (listed at the > Readers' Rides site) about his new control arm bushings. I > am having second thoughts about the Mugen's, based on J. > Beam's comments that they're harsher than he likes, and want > to see what Merle has and how they feel. > > > When I replaced my rears, I went with OEM for the very reason that I didn't want the squeaks and harsh ride you tend to get with urethane bushings. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> More importantly, I just emailed Merle (listed at the >> Readers' Rides site) about his new control arm bushings. >> I >> am having second thoughts about the Mugen's, based on J. >> Beam's comments that they're harsher than he likes, and >> want >> to see what Merle has and how they feel. >> >> >> > > > When I replaced my rears, I went with OEM for the very > reason that I didn't > want the squeaks and harsh ride you tend to get with > urethane bushings. I have ruled out the urethanes for this reason. Also, I suspect they're tougher to install using amateur shop tools. But the Mugen's are supposed to be simply harder rubber. OTOH, a site you mentioned here some time ago (http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...g/bushing.html) suggests that the Mugen's and Honda OEM are now the same. The Mugen's are about $10 cheaper (per front lower control arm set) than what I'll pay for ones from cheapesthondaparts.com and slhonda.com. At this point I think I'll just pop each control arm into a 150 degree F oven for a half hour and see if that heats it enough to do as JT (= poster "Grumpy") said, re installing the bushings. Probably also refrigerate the bushings themselves for an hour. Back to your car's accelerating vibration problem... |
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Elle wrote:
> "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote > >>"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> >>>More importantly, I just emailed Merle (listed at the >>>Readers' Rides site) about his new control arm bushings. >>>I >>>am having second thoughts about the Mugen's, based on J. >>>Beam's comments that they're harsher than he likes, and >>>want >>>to see what Merle has and how they feel. >>> >>> >>> >> >> >>When I replaced my rears, I went with OEM for the very >>reason that I didn't >>want the squeaks and harsh ride you tend to get with >>urethane bushings. > > > I have ruled out the urethanes for this reason. Also, I > suspect they're tougher to install using amateur shop tools. > > But the Mugen's are supposed to be simply harder rubber. > > OTOH, a site you mentioned here some time ago > (http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...g/bushing.html) > suggests that the Mugen's and Honda OEM are now the same. the mugen bushings /are/ rubber and they're an *exact* pattern fit. none of the urethane squeaks. but the mugen rubber is definitely harder - i've used them. there was some durometer reading info out there on the net a while back, but i didn't save the link. even if you didn't have that info, prodding the two different rubbers with a screwdriver gives obvious differences. driving - the contrast is huge. great on a nice smooth track, but much too harsh for my taste on the crappy roads we have around here. > > The Mugen's are about $10 cheaper (per front lower control > arm set) than what I'll pay for ones from > cheapesthondaparts.com and slhonda.com. > > At this point I think I'll just pop each control arm into a > 150 degree F oven for a half hour and see if that heats it > enough to do as JT (= poster "Grumpy") said, re installing > the bushings. Probably also refrigerate the bushings > themselves for an hour. > > Back to your car's accelerating vibration problem... > > |
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TeGGeR® wrote:
> "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in > news:%4r8g.1037$Jf.529@newsread4.news.pas.earthlin k.net: > > >>"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote >> >>>Well, there's an update. My injectors appear to have been >>>just fine. I >>>replaced them to no change at all in the vibration. See >>>the thread in >>>rec.autos.tech for more. >> >>Have you ruled out the oxygen sensor? >> >> >> > > > > Good point. I just called my guy and he says it's definitely not the oxygen > sensor. Now he's saying...maybe it is...one of the engine mounts. > > We've already ruled out the front mount, which leaves the rear > (a *PIG* to get at...) or one of the side mounts. They're $100 each. not even a piglet - looks are deceiving. and you don't need a bearing press - it's basically just 4 bolts. the big center bolt is best tackled with an air ratchet since there's very limited swing arc available for a conventional wrench, but the ratchet snugs up in there just like the gap was made for it. which it probably was. the 3 little bolts are loctited in there, so they need cracking loose - make sure you use 6-sided flank drive sockets. other than that, two universal joints and a couple of extensions, for the one tricky one, and you're set. if it takes you an hour, it'll only be because it's your first time or because there's crash damage bent the frame. don't neglect the front mounts either. if you want to be economic, the two main side mounts are often ok enough to leave. > > I wanna see what Comboverfish says. I'm also mulling over letting the > dealer try their hand at it... > > Nobody's posted to the thread in rec.autos.tech yet. > |
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I quickly scanned all posts, so if I missed these things, I apologize.
Does your car display same "vibration" etc. while not moving i.e. revving @ standstill? I don't know Canadian law, so does your car have a catalytic converter? Is it automatic, or stick shift? |
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"trifecta" <ticketcasher@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1147350845.332054.70510@y43g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com: > I quickly scanned all posts, so if I missed these things, I apologize. > Does your car display same "vibration" etc. while not moving i.e. > revving @ standstill? Haven't tried that yet, but will today. I don't anticipate any vibration, as there would be no load on the engine. All details here: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/help.html > I don't know Canadian law, so does your car have > a catalytic converter? Canadian emissions law is virtually identical to US law, actually. Yes there is a cat and O2 sensor. My engine controls are identical to a US model's. > Is it automatic, or stick shift? > Manual. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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I am not a professional auto tech, so just putting some things out
there for thought. 1. Possible restricted catalytic converter? 2. A dynamic timing problem? 3. items 1 & 2 could go hand in hand. 4. clutch chattering / very slight slipping @ higher rev's? Not enough to notice on tach, but enough to feel? |
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