Honda Car Forum

Hello. I own a 2000 Honda Accord LX and recently I noticed some paint
was peeling on the passenger side door. It's not much but I was
wondering if there's anything I can do to prevent it from peeling even
more?

No, if it's peeling, it's failing. Most likely from a shotty repaint.


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Why is it so easy for the collision repairers to botch up the paint
work? One would think that by year 2006 a crashed car can already by
repaired exactly to the origional spec. But I would suppose that would
be asking too much.


East-

Unfortunately the compromise may be the paint itself. EPA has forced
manufacturers to remove many pollutants to it making it a compromised
product.


<eastwardbound2003@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1144027186.028976.99770@z34g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Why is it so easy for the collision repairers to botch up the paint
> work? One would think that by year 2006 a crashed car can already by
> repaired exactly to the origional spec. But I would suppose that would
> be asking too much.
>
>
> East-
>

eastwardbound2003@yahoo.com wrote in
news:1144027186.028976.99770@z34g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:

> Why is it so easy for the collision repairers to botch up the paint
> work? One would think that by year 2006 a crashed car can already by
> repaired exactly to the origional spec. But I would suppose that would
> be asking too much.
>


Because it was a crappy body shop that did the work. It's like anything
else: You get what you pay for.


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TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

eastwardbound2003@yahoo.com wrote:
> Why is it so easy for the collision repairers to botch up the paint
> work? One would think that by year 2006 a crashed car can already by
> repaired exactly to the origional spec. But I would suppose that would
> be asking too much.

especially on plastic bumpers! the ONLY reason that stuff fails is that
the proper plastic primer isnt used. the stuff i had was a clear/pinkish
liquid made by PPG. it was about $10-$15 for a relatively large can, and
goes right on over whatevers there, let it partially dry, respray the
paint within 24hrs.

it could probably be applied with a rag, if need be. just enough to get
the bumper "wet".

TeGGeR® wrote:
> eastwardbound2003@yahoo.com wrote in
> news:1144027186.028976.99770@z34g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>
>> Why is it so easy for the collision repairers to botch up the paint
>> work? One would think that by year 2006 a crashed car can already by
>> repaired exactly to the origional spec. But I would suppose that would
>> be asking too much.
>>
>
>
> Because it was a crappy body shop that did the work. It's like anything
> else: You get what you pay for.
>
>
i dunno. you CAN get a decent job out of 1-day or even earl schieb, if
you do all the prep yourself. that means:

take off all molding, trim, marker lights, door handles, etc
pre-mask the areas
do all bondoing/dent removal/rust patching
pre-prime and sand the areas you do work on

so basically all theyll do is mask the glass, etc, spray with primer,
then sand and spray with a color coat.

SoCalMike <Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:YbydnT8ybLngIazZRVn-pQ@comcast.com:

> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> eastwardbound2003@yahoo.com wrote in
>> news:1144027186.028976.99770@z34g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com:
>>
>>> Why is it so easy for the collision repairers to botch up the paint
>>> work? One would think that by year 2006 a crashed car can already by
>>> repaired exactly to the origional spec. But I would suppose that would
>>> be asking too much.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Because it was a crappy body shop that did the work. It's like anything
>> else: You get what you pay for.
>>
>>
> i dunno. you CAN get a decent job out of 1-day or even earl schieb, if
> you do all the prep yourself. that means:
>
> take off all molding, trim, marker lights, door handles, etc
> pre-mask the areas
> do all bondoing/dent removal/rust patching
> pre-prime and sand the areas you do work on
>
> so basically all theyll do is mask the glass, etc, spray with primer,
> then sand and spray with a color coat.
>



The problem for the OP is probably between the base coat and the clear
coat. You have nothing to do with that even if you do everything you say
above.

If they use crap paint or do it wrong, the clear coat will eventually peel
off the base coat.

Actually, even if the problem is between primer and a non-clear coat paint,
you STILL have nothing to do with it, and it's STILL up to the shop to use
good materials and do the job right.

The OP's the victim of a shitty paint job. End of story.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/