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I have a 93 accord lx and I am changing the water pump and it is turning
into a nightmare. I got the belts off and the upper timing cover off but now i cant get the cranshaft pulley to come off because i cant get engine to not turn while i turn the nut. there must be a special tool or something cause i cant figure it out. I have a haynes repair manual that says to wedge a large screwdriver between the flywheel and the bell housing. I tried this for hours and it dont work. someone please help i need this car back on the road and i cant afford to take it to the shop |
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kaegre wrote:
> > I have a 93 accord lx and I am changing the water pump and it is turning > into a nightmare. I got the belts off and the upper timing cover off but > now i cant get the cranshaft pulley to come off because i cant get engine > to not turn while i turn the nut. there must be a special tool or > something cause i cant figure it out. I have a haynes repair manual that > says to wedge a large screwdriver between the flywheel and the bell > housing. I tried this for hours and it dont work. someone please help > i need this car back on the road and i cant afford to take it to the shop ------------------------ http://www.hondasuv.com/stg/viewtopi...=148233#148233 If you're in Canada you can march into Canadian Tire and get the correct tool for your accord. It might not be the 50 mm model. I know the '95 Odyssey is 50 mm, so the '95 Accord probably is. Don't use a strap wrench around the pulley because many of them have an integrated rubber 'damper' and you'll shred it if you don't use the correct tool. 'Curly' |
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kaegre wrote:
> > I have a 93 accord lx and I am changing the water pump and it is turning > into a nightmare. I got the belts off and the upper timing cover off but > now i cant get the cranshaft pulley to come off because i cant get engine > to not turn while i turn the nut. there must be a special tool or > something cause i cant figure it out. I have a haynes repair manual that > says to wedge a large screwdriver between the flywheel and the bell > housing. I tried this for hours and it dont work. someone please help > i need this car back on the road and i cant afford to take it to the shop ------------------------------ http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolthextool.html If you're in Canada you can march into Canadian Tire and get the correct tool for your accord. It might not be the 50 mm model. I know the '95 Odyssey is 50 mm, so the '95 Accord probably is. Don't use a strap wrench around the pulley because many of them have an integrated rubber 'damper' and you'll shred it if you don't use the correct tool. If you have a manual tranny you can build a gizmo that bolts to one of the clutch (or is it flywheel?) bolts, and the other end anchors somewhere else. 'Curly' |
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kaegre wrote:
> > I have a 93 accord lx and I am changing the water pump and it is turning > into a nightmare. I got the belts off and the upper timing cover off but > now i cant get the cranshaft pulley to come off because i cant get engine > to not turn while i turn the nut. there must be a special tool or > something cause i cant figure it out. I have a haynes repair manual that > says to wedge a large screwdriver between the flywheel and the bell > housing. I tried this for hours and it dont work. someone please help > i need this car back on the road and i cant afford to take it to the shop ========================= Here's the link I meant to give you: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolt.html The other link was more specific to CR-V, Odyssey. You might need the older style tool. 'Curly' |
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"kaegre" <kaegre78@aol.com> wrote in
news:f83fb99424c61c02928f050dd80b65bf@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com: > I have a 93 accord lx and I am changing the water pump and it is > turning into a nightmare. I got the belts off and the upper timing > cover off but now i cant get the cranshaft pulley to come off because > i cant get engine to not turn while i turn the nut. there must be a > special tool or something cause i cant figure it out. I have a haynes > repair manual Ditch that Haynes. You will fook up more with the Haynes than you will fix, ESPECIALLY when you start getting into major invasive surgery. www.helminc.com is where to go for manuals. That or eBay. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote
> kaegre wrote: >> >> I have a 93 accord lx and I am changing the water pump >> and it is turning >> into a nightmare. I got the belts off and the upper >> timing cover off but >> now i cant get the cranshaft pulley to come off because i >> cant get engine >> to not turn while i turn the nut. there must be a special >> tool or >> something cause i cant figure it out. I have a haynes >> repair manual that >> says to wedge a large screwdriver between the flywheel >> and the bell >> housing. I tried this for hours and it dont work. >> someone please help >> i need this car back on the road and i cant afford to >> take it to the shop > > ========================= > > Here's the link I meant to give you: > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolt.html > The other link was more specific to CR-V, Odyssey. You > might need the > older style tool. No, you got it. www.hondautomotiveparts.com shows, for the 93 Accord LX, the 50 mm hex design of pulley. The tool you designed and which is now referenced at Tegger's site will work on it. |
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I'm trying to do the same thing. I know I'm going to have trouble with crankshift pulley like you are having now. Someone said that you just have to go to mechanic and give him some little moneys and let him properly unscrews the crankshaft pulley. Then he put it back the pulley lightly. Don't tight it too much. Then you drive to home and unscrew it. However, the distance between a body shop and your home has to be short since you drive the car without alternator and power steering belt and Air condition belt. Is this going to work? I'm asking to TeGGEeR or Elle or Curly Q.LInks. |
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mmdir2005@yahoo.com wrote in
news:1143097604.432456.237890@g10g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com: > > I'm trying to do the same thing. I know I'm going to have trouble with > crankshift pulley like you are having now. Someone said that you just > have to go to mechanic and give him some little moneys and let him > properly unscrews the crankshaft pulley. > Then he put it back the pulley lightly. Don't tight it too much. Then > you drive > to home and unscrew it. However, the distance between a body shop and > your home has to be short since you drive the car without alternator > and power steering belt and > Air condition belt. > Is this going to work? I'm asking to TeGGEeR or Elle or Curly Q.LInks. > You don't need to ask. Curly has already given you everything I know: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolt.html I like to start with the electric impact wrench first. The bolt will often come loose with that, and ti only costs $15 per day at an industrial rental place. The best thing about the impact wrench is that the engine does not move AT ALL while you work, so your TDC setting is undisturbed. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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<mmdir2005@yahoo.com> wrote
> I'm trying to do the same thing. I know I'm going to have > trouble with > crankshift pulley like you are having now. Someone said > that you just > have to go to mechanic and give him some little moneys > and let him > properly unscrews the crankshaft pulley. > Then he put it back the pulley lightly. Don't tight it too > much. Then > you drive > to home and unscrew it. Sure, a lot of people have reported having done this. It's a great solution. Do consider tipping the mechanic 10 bucks or so. That's what folks here have reported doing, so all think they've been treated fairly. > However, the distance between a body shop and > your home has to be short since you drive the car without > alternator > and power steering belt and > Air condition belt. Not true. The pulley bolt may be freed with all these accessory belts left intact. Regarding how tight you should have the mechanic torque the bolt (after breaking it free): That bolt takes a lot more torque to free than is actually required when installing it. E.g. typically over 300 ft-lbs are needed to free it. If the mechanic frees it, then torques it to the manual's specification (which varies; it's 119 ft-lbs for my 91 Civic), it will be completely safe to drive. You just do not want to drive it too long cause the bolt will tighten up again. Drive a few miles, and you should be able to free it at home pretty easily. I don't agree with Tegger that using a pulley holding tool results in concerns about being a little off TDC. That's not at all important, from where I'm sitting. What is important is marking the old timing belt, the crankshaft sprocket, and the camshaft sprocket so you install the new belt correctly and don't get the notorious "TB off a tooth" problem. Here's my site on the three different types of pulley holding tools available or that one can manufacture one's self: http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id6.html Note that, for the 93 Accord, it links to the site Curly steered you towards earlier. |
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kaegre wrote:
> I have a 93 accord lx and I am changing the water pump and it is turning > into a nightmare. I got the belts off and the upper timing cover off but > now i cant get the cranshaft pulley to come off because i cant get engine > to not turn while i turn the nut. there must be a special tool or > something cause i cant figure it out. I have a haynes repair manual that > says to wedge a large screwdriver between the flywheel and the bell > housing. I tried this for hours and it dont work. someone please help > i need this car back on the road and i cant afford to take it to the shop > you need a pulley wheel holding tool. go to tegger.com for links. and buy the helm manual. haynes is UTTER GARBAGE. |
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