Honda Car Forum

I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear wheels
have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate freely. I
tried wd40 and other remedies to no avail. Any ideas on how to separate them
would really help (Murphy's law says that the tire on the wheel with the
stuck nut will be my next flat tire :-) .

Thanks
Loukas

Loukas Kallivokas wrote:
> I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear wheels
> have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate freely. I
> tried wd40 and other remedies to no avail. Any ideas on how to separate them
> would really help (Murphy's law says that the tire on the wheel with the
> stuck nut will be my next flat tire :-) .
>
> Thanks
> Loukas
>
>
2-stage problem:

1. cut the nut off the bolt so you can recover the wheel. use a chisel
& safety glasses.

2. replace the hub.

because the bolt is spinning, the splines that hold it in the hub are
wasted, and it's likely to happen again if you replace try replacing
just the bolt. fortunately, hubs of this era accord are plentiful &
cheap in junk yards, so replacement is not going to be difficult.

Loukas Kallivokas wrote:
>
> I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear wheels
> have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate freely. I
> tried wd40 and other remedies to no avail. Any ideas on how to separate them
> would really help (Murphy's law says that the tire on the wheel with the
> stuck nut will be my next flat tire :-) .
>
> Thanks
> Loukas

---------------------------

Depends a lot on what type of wheel is on it, whether you can get a good
'shot' at it. I'd drill out the stud until there's nothing left but the
nut. If you can get a clear shot at it from the side, use a nut-buster
to get the nut off, then do what Jim said.

'Curly'

Jim and "Curly",

many thanks for the suggestions. I'll try to break the nut out one way or
another.

Loukas

"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
news:441A37DA.B681512@interbaun.com...
> Loukas Kallivokas wrote:
>>
>> I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear wheels
>> have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate freely. I
>> tried wd40 and other remedies to no avail. Any ideas on how to separate
>> them
>> would really help (Murphy's law says that the tire on the wheel with the
>> stuck nut will be my next flat tire :-) .
>>
>> Thanks
>> Loukas
>
> ---------------------------
>
> Depends a lot on what type of wheel is on it, whether you can get a good
> 'shot' at it. I'd drill out the stud until there's nothing left but the
> nut. If you can get a clear shot at it from the side, use a nut-buster
> to get the nut off, then do what Jim said.
>
> 'Curly'

"Loukas Kallivokas" <loukas@mail.utexas.edu> wrote in
news:hJpSf.1630$uX5.449@tornado.texas.rr.com:

> I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear
> wheels have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate
> freely. I tried wd40 and other remedies to no avail. Any ideas on how
> to separate them would really help (Murphy's law says that the tire on
> the wheel with the stuck nut will be my next flat tire :-) .
>



Questions:

Are your lugnuts the acorn type, with a closed top? Or are they just
regular nuts (stud protrudes)?

Alloy wheels? Or steel with wheel covers removable without removing the
nuts)?

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote

> Depends a lot on what type of wheel is on it, whether you can get a good
> 'shot' at it. I'd drill out the stud until there's nothing left but the
> nut. If you can get a clear shot at it from the side, use a nut-buster
> to get the nut off, then do what Jim said.

Drilling was proven to be more time consuming. Unless, you can
crumble the nut by drilling on both sides of a nut by avoiding the stud.

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote

> 2-stage problem:
> 1. cut the nut off the bolt so you can recover the wheel. use a chisel
> & safety glasses.
> 2. replace the hub.
> because the bolt is spinning, the splines that hold it in the hub are
> wasted, and it's likely to happen again if you replace try replacing
> just the bolt. fortunately, hubs of this era accord are plentiful &
> cheap in junk yards, so replacement is not going to be difficult.

You can take an angle grinder, cut the nut and bolt then grind the rest out.

You do not need to replace the hub. In fact, this problem happened
on the on the front hub which was impossible to fit the stud without
removing the hub, but yet it was easily accomplished by the
experienced. Before fitting in the stud, apply some JB-Weld on both.
Next step is to secure the stud. Now, drill the hub and the stud's head
to secure the stud from spinning but don't drill all the way thru.
Insert a steel key to fit.

> 1. cut the nut off the bolt so you can recover the wheel. use a chisel
> & safety glasses.

Is the chisel intended to break the stud/nut or spin out the bolt? This is
impossible if the nut is seized to the bolt, which in many cases it's
too much stuck together.

Burt wrote:
> You do not need to replace the hub. In fact, this problem happened
> on the on the front hub which was impossible to fit the stud without
> removing the hub, but yet it was easily accomplished by the
> experienced. Before fitting in the stud, apply some JB-Weld on both.

Does any of this epoxy remain after the job is done, and if so, what is
its role?

Kaz Kylheku wrote:
> Burt wrote:
>
>>You do not need to replace the hub. In fact, this problem happened
>>on the on the front hub which was impossible to fit the stud without
>>removing the hub, but yet it was easily accomplished by the
>>experienced. Before fitting in the stud, apply some JB-Weld on both.
>
>
> Does any of this epoxy remain after the job is done, and if so, what is
> its role?
>
it's role is to melt when the brake/bearing assembly gets hot and really
foul up the whole stinking mess.

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote

> Kaz Kylheku wrote:
> > Burt wrote:
> >
> >>You do not need to replace the hub. In fact, this problem happened
> >>on the on the front hub which was impossible to fit the stud without
> >>removing the hub, but yet it was easily accomplished by the
> >>experienced. Before fitting in the stud, apply some JB-Weld on both.
> >
> >
> > Does any of this epoxy remain after the job is done, and if so, what is
> > its role?
> >
> it's role is to melt when the brake/bearing assembly gets hot and really
> foul up the whole stinking mess.

As in...? JB-Weld do not melt but instead burn up at extreme temperatures.