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On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:02:49 -0800, "Al"
<agerhart2@nospam.charter.net> wrote: > >"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message >news:43FA414F.D5DBB0A@interbaun.com... >> Al wrote: >>> >>> My 1998 Accord EX battery was getting real tired on these cold >>> mornings, >>> so I took it to WalMart for a new one. I explained the radio's >>> requirements, >>> and they assured me that they are professionals and would do the job >>> correctly. They used a "reserve power" plug to maintain voltage to the >>> anti-theft radio during the change. It didn't work. No, I don't have the >>> code, because it didn't come with the car when I bought it, used. The >>> honda >>> dealer has me scheduled to remove the center console, and radio, and get >>> the >>> code from Honda. His estimate is $65. Is there a method, using the power >>> recepticle, that would work? How should one do it? What is the approved >>> method? >>> >>> Al >>> >> >> ------------------------------- >> >> SEARCH is your friend. Search this NG, or go to Google.com. >> >> You really should have been sure YOU had the code before they locked >> your radio. > >And if the car didn't come with it, HOW do I make sure I have it? > >>Here's the quick version. The CODE is five digits long, and >> often written inside the owner's manual, or on white stickers inside the >> glove box, sometimes it's just the serial number, but it will get you >> the answer. The dealer who serviced that car PROBABLY has the CODE noted >> in their computer. > >The car is from out of town, and the dealer doesn't have it. > >>Try turning ON the radio, turn OFF the key. Hold 1 >> and 6 and turn key to accessory (position II). If the radio starts >> spelling out two groups of four digits with alpha characters on the >> front, write them down. Eight digits make up your serial number. Now ANY >> dealer can get your CODE for you, and should do it for free, providing >> you prove you're the owner of the vehicle (VIN # and registration are >> sometimes asked for). >> > >I think this is for newer cars. > >> P.S. When your owner's manual arrives, write the CODE in it, as well as >> inside the fuse box covers. >> > >I have the manual, and we searched it. No code. > >> 'Curly' > >It cost 37.50 to tear the thing apart, I now have the code. The dealer now >has the code. It is written in my manual, glovebox, fusebox, and trunk lid. > |
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On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 18:48:57 GMT, AZ Nomad <aznomad@PmunOgeBOX.com>
wrote: >On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 08:08:14 -0800, Al <agerhart2@nospam.charter.net> wrote: > >>The radio isn't stolen. The car isn't stolen. I have the License, Title, and >>registration. I have photo ID, a clear criminal record, and a bill of sale. >>The >>dealer can't "Look up the code", without the radio serial number. The serial >>number is not available from the front. As I said in another response, I now >>have >>the code, $37.50 later, and have written it down everywhere I can think of. > >The dealer should have been able to look up the radio code from the VIN. > > > it's very common for people to think this way, but it's just not true at all!!!! the vin has nothing to do with the radio code. people come in all the time thinking this.. don't believe it! Unless the dealer recorded the code at the time of PDI it's impossible to cross vin to radio! Chip |
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