Honda Car Forum

Putting on new brake pads today and noticed on the drivers side that
the (whatever you call it, tie-rod?) had a busted boot and the grease
knuckles rubber was also busted.

This is the link that actually turns the left front wheel. Sorry I'm
don't have a clue what parts are called on front wheel drives. If we
were talking RWD it would be a tie-rod.

Anyway, can just the boot and the grease fitting rubber be replaced or
do I have to replace the entire link. I'm assuming I can replace the
boot on the inner part of the link but the outer part with the grease
fitting will have to be replaced?

Is this a do-it-yourself-er or do I need to take to someone?

I have a "fork" to break the outer joint loose but w/o further
inspection I couldn't really tell about the inner part. Looks like it
connected directly to the steering shaft.

BigELilE05@msn.com wrote in news:1140043372.164043.220560
@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

> Putting on new brake pads today and noticed on the drivers side that
> the (whatever you call it, tie-rod?) had a busted boot and the grease
> knuckles rubber was also busted.
>
> This is the link that actually turns the left front wheel. Sorry I'm
> don't have a clue what parts are called on front wheel drives. If we
> were talking RWD it would be a tie-rod.
>
> Anyway, can just the boot and the grease fitting rubber be replaced or
> do I have to replace the entire link. I'm assuming I can replace the
> boot on the inner part of the link but the outer part with the grease
> fitting will have to be replaced?
>
> Is this a do-it-yourself-er or do I need to take to someone?
>
> I have a "fork" to break the outer joint loose but w/o further
> inspection I couldn't really tell about the inner part. Looks like it
> connected directly to the steering shaft.
>
>

Sounds like a tie rod. Directly connects the rack to the little arm on
the spindle. The boot's part of the steering rack (if you're talking
about the boot that covers the thing connected to the tie rod). On the
civic, replacing the boot's pretty easy because, you just disconnect the
steering wheel joint (under the dash) , unbolt some bolts and the rack
will drop down to the limits of the PS lines. Then you use pliers on the
Band-it style clamps, take off the boot and replace (tie rod's got to
come off first of course). You can of course take the rack out but, the
PS lines are a major pain in the ass. Worst job I EVER did on a honda.

Hmm come to thing of it, If I did it over again, I think I'd disconnect
from the pump and just feed the lines out the bottom so I could get at
them easier.

The tie rod just unscrews from the rack so, it's even easier to replace.
Make sure you measure the threads to get the new one on pretty close so,
you can drive it to a shop for an alignment. As soon as you disconnect
the tie rod, it's new alignment time.

While Honda wants nearly a grand for a rack, online junk yards sell them
for nearly nothing. I have a couple civic ones in my shed.

Majestic honda is the place to order part. My dealer charges 30% over
MSRP for parts. Majestic charges 30% UNDER MSRP for parts. They have
parts blowups too so, you can actually see the parts you're ordering.

BigELilE05@msn.com wrote:
>
> Putting on new brake pads today and noticed on the drivers side that
> the (whatever you call it, tie-rod?) had a busted boot and the grease
> knuckles rubber was also busted.
>
> This is the link that actually turns the left front wheel. Sorry I'm
> don't have a clue what parts are called on front wheel drives. If we
> were talking RWD it would be a tie-rod.
>
> Anyway, can just the boot and the grease fitting rubber be replaced or
> do I have to replace the entire link. I'm assuming I can replace the
> boot on the inner part of the link but the outer part with the grease
> fitting will have to be replaced?
>
> Is this a do-it-yourself-er or do I need to take to someone?
>
> I have a "fork" to break the outer joint loose but w/o further
> inspection I couldn't really tell about the inner part. Looks like it
> connected directly to the steering shaft.

------------------------------

It sounds like you might be describing a CV-Joint?? Pick up a Chilton's
manual and have a look at www.tegger.com as well for special tools
you'll need if you do it yourself.. I like the Chilton's for the
Odyssey, and your Accord is very similar, so you should like the Accord
manual.

'Curly'

"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in news:43F40E1B.E06A9933
@interbaun.com:

> BigELilE05@msn.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have a "fork" to break the outer joint loose but w/o further
>> inspection I couldn't really tell about the inner part. Looks like it
>> connected directly to the steering shaft.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> It sounds like you might be describing a CV-Joint?? Pick up a Chilton's
> manual and have a look at www.tegger.com as well for special tools
> you'll need if you do it yourself.. I like the Chilton's for the
> Odyssey, and your Accord is very similar, so you should like the Accord
> manual.
>
> 'Curly'
>

I guess it could be interpreted either way. I just put new CV joint boots
on my axels. Made the mistake is getting them local because I was in a
hurry. After the fact, I looked them up on Majestic and it turned out OEM
boot kits were cheaper and probably better then the ones I ended up with
Dooh!

I hate the generic clamps that come with the boots. Anyone know where I can
buy "Band-it" style clamps? They looks like large stainless steel cable
ties.

I've used a Chiltons before but, for the money ($60-70) I'd really
recommend the Helmes manual. I have it in both paper and electronic forms
for my cars and it can't be beat. I had to splice two wiring harnesses
together the other day. Civic and Integra. Couldn't have done it without
both manuals (and honda's incredible engineering work).

'Curly Q. Links' wrote:
> BigELilE05@msn.com wrote:
> >
> > Putting on new brake pads today and noticed on the drivers side that
> > the (whatever you call it, tie-rod?) had a busted boot and the grease
> > knuckles rubber was also busted.
> >
> > This is the link that actually turns the left front wheel. Sorry I'm
> > don't have a clue what parts are called on front wheel drives. If we
> > were talking RWD it would be a tie-rod.
> >
> > Anyway, can just the boot and the grease fitting rubber be replaced or
> > do I have to replace the entire link. I'm assuming I can replace the
> > boot on the inner part of the link but the outer part with the grease
> > fitting will have to be replaced?
> >
> > Is this a do-it-yourself-er or do I need to take to someone?
> >
> > I have a "fork" to break the outer joint loose but w/o further
> > inspection I couldn't really tell about the inner part. Looks like it
> > connected directly to the steering shaft.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> It sounds like you might be describing a CV-Joint?? Pick up a Chilton's
> manual and have a look at www.tegger.com as well for special tools
> you'll need if you do it yourself.. I like the Chilton's for the
> Odyssey, and your Accord is very similar, so you should like the Accord
> manual.
>
> 'Curly'

It's not the CV joints, it's the tie-rod and tie-rod end on the drivers
side. I looked at teggers site and it doesn't go into the tie-rod.

I know I can get the outter one loose and replaced, I'm just not sure
about the inner part. If I gotta buy some special tools and it's a big
PIA, I will just have to take it to someone, but I would rather do it
myself.

BigELilE05@msn.com wrote in news:1140095094.731514.21250
@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

'Curly'
>
> It's not the CV joints, it's the tie-rod and tie-rod end on the drivers
> side. I looked at teggers site and it doesn't go into the tie-rod.
>
> I know I can get the outter one loose and replaced, I'm just not sure
> about the inner part. If I gotta buy some special tools and it's a big
> PIA, I will just have to take it to someone, but I would rather do it
> myself.
>
>

If you're just replacing the tie rod end, then it simply unscrews from the
shaft and you screw on a new on. If you're going farther up to the rack and
want to replace the boot too, then you might need a tool for the boot
though, I was able to get them on and off without a tool. Boot replacement
becomes a clearance issue. Can you get in there to work?

Dufus Systems wrote:
> BigELilE05@msn.com wrote in news:1140095094.731514.21250
> @g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
>
> 'Curly'
> >
> > It's not the CV joints, it's the tie-rod and tie-rod end on the drivers
> > side. I looked at teggers site and it doesn't go into the tie-rod.
> >
> > I know I can get the outter one loose and replaced, I'm just not sure
> > about the inner part. If I gotta buy some special tools and it's a big
> > PIA, I will just have to take it to someone, but I would rather do it
> > myself.
> >
> >
>
> If you're just replacing the tie rod end, then it simply unscrews from the
> shaft and you screw on a new on. If you're going farther up to the rack and
> want to replace the boot too, then you might need a tool for the boot
> though, I was able to get them on and off without a tool. Boot replacement
> becomes a clearance issue. Can you get in there to work?

I haven't looked at it that close yet to see if I can get to the inner
part of the boot to remove it. I needed to get the brakes on the car
yesterday and back on the road. I assuming you need a tool for the
metal clamp that holds the boot in place?

Dufus Systems wrote:
> I've used a Chiltons before but, for the money ($60-70) I'd really
> recommend the Helmes manual. I have it in both paper and electronic forms
> for my cars and it can't be beat. I had to splice two wiring harnesses
> together the other day. Civic and Integra. Couldn't have done it without
> both manuals (and honda's incredible engineering work).


------------------------------

I figured he was probably in a hurry, and most (even small) towns have a
supplier that has a Chilton's in stock. I like the fact that the
Chilton's assumes you're not a trained mechanic, and tells you the
'exceptions to the rules', so you can work around the fact that you
don't have a wall full of OEM Honda specialized tools. I own the Helms
manuals too, (including the electrical one) don't get me wrong.

Here's a link to a tegger.com page that shows a special crankshaft
holding tool I built with a little help from the Chilton book.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolthextool.html

For the Canadians, a similar tool is now available at Canadian Tire
$34.99 CAN, made by Powerbuilt. I expect Powerbuilt may be available in
USA also . . . .

'Curly'

Dufus Systems <peon@somecompany.com.invalid> wrote in
news:Xns976C5D9A0ACADpeonsomecompanycomin@127.0.0. 1:

> BigELilE05@msn.com wrote in news:1140095094.731514.21250
> @g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
>
> 'Curly'
>>
>> It's not the CV joints, it's the tie-rod and tie-rod end on the
>> drivers side. I looked at teggers site and it doesn't go into the
>> tie-rod.
>>
>> I know I can get the outter one loose and replaced, I'm just not sure
>> about the inner part. If I gotta buy some special tools and it's a
>> big PIA, I will just have to take it to someone, but I would rather
>> do it myself.
>>
>>
>
> If you're just replacing the tie rod end, then it simply unscrews from
> the shaft



"Simply"...*IF* you don't live in the Rust Belt...


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

TeGGeR® wrote:
> Dufus Systems <peon@somecompany.com.invalid> wrote in
> news:Xns976C5D9A0ACADpeonsomecompanycomin@127.0.0. 1:
>
> > BigELilE05@msn.com wrote in news:1140095094.731514.21250
> > @g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> >
> > 'Curly'
> >>
> >> It's not the CV joints, it's the tie-rod and tie-rod end on the
> >> drivers side. I looked at teggers site and it doesn't go into the
> >> tie-rod.
> >>
> >> I know I can get the outter one loose and replaced, I'm just not sure
> >> about the inner part. If I gotta buy some special tools and it's a
> >> big PIA, I will just have to take it to someone, but I would rather
> >> do it myself.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > If you're just replacing the tie rod end, then it simply unscrews from
> > the shaft
>
>
>
> "Simply"...*IF* you don't live in the Rust Belt...
Florida.

Do I need a special tool to remove and replace the metal clamp on the
boot?
>
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/