Honda Car Forum

I haven't looked at my Accord but I think there should only be one boot on the
tie-rod per side.
I recently replaced them on my Integra and used a large standard
screwdriver just to get enough space to put my cutters in to cut it out. That
was just for the inside one, on the outside, it should be a spring which you can
expand to get it off (pliers or spring pullers). You will need a special puller
to get the tie-rod end out of the hub so you don't damage the tie-rod ball joint
(tegger has a picture of one on his site). Once you get the tie-rod off of the
hub, you'll need to mark off where the tie-rod is so that when you put it back
on, you don't sway too far from where it was as this will throw your alignment
off.
After the tie-rod is off, you should be able to remove the boot and replace it.
You do need a special tool to get the new inside clamp back on; rather than
doing this, I just used outdoor twist ties that lock in place. They are holding
up as good as the metal ones that were on there before.


Good Luck,
Nick



On 16 Feb 2006 16:46:27 -0800, BigELilE05@msn.com wrote:

>
>TeGGeR® wrote:
>> Dufus Systems <peon@somecompany.com.invalid> wrote in
>> news:Xns976C5D9A0ACADpeonsomecompanycomin@127.0.0. 1:
>>
>> > BigELilE05@msn.com wrote in news:1140095094.731514.21250
>> > @g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
>> >
>> > 'Curly'
>> >>
>> >> It's not the CV joints, it's the tie-rod and tie-rod end on the
>> >> drivers side. I looked at teggers site and it doesn't go into the
>> >> tie-rod.
>> >>
>> >> I know I can get the outter one loose and replaced, I'm just not sure
>> >> about the inner part. If I gotta buy some special tools and it's a
>> >> big PIA, I will just have to take it to someone, but I would rather
>> >> do it myself.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> > If you're just replacing the tie rod end, then it simply unscrews from
>> > the shaft
>>
>>
>>
>> "Simply"...*IF* you don't live in the Rust Belt...
>Florida.
>
>Do I need a special tool to remove and replace the metal clamp on the
>boot?
>>
>>
>> --
>> TeGGeR®
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Nick wrote:
<<I haven't looked at my Accord but I think there should only be one
boot on the tie-rod per side.
****************I recently replaced them
on my Integra and used a large standard screwdriver just to get enough
space to put my cutters in to cut it out. That was just for the inside
one, on the outside, it should be a spring which you can expand to get
it off (pliers or spring pullers). You will need a special puller to get
the tie-rod end out of the hub so you don't damage the tie-rod ball
joint (tegger has a picture of one on his site). Once you get the
tie-rod off of the hub, you'll need to mark off where the tie-rod is so
that when you put it back on, you don't sway too far from where it was
as this will throw your alignment off.
After the tie-rod is off, you should be able to remove the boot and
replace it. You do need a special tool to get the new inside clamp back
on; rather than doing this, I just used outdoor twist ties that lock in
place. They are holding up as good as the metal ones that were on there
before.>>

Thanks Nick.

As I wrote in my first post, the outer tie-rods grease boot (or whatever
you call it) is also busted so I have to replace the outer tie-rod since
you can't just replace the rubber.

I have a "fork" that I haven't used in yrs that I can use to remove it
from the hub. So damaging the rubber part isn't an issue.

I was thinking about using one of those thick, wide, nylon tie wraps
instead of going back with the metal clamp on the boot. (since you need
a special tool)

Those things are probably stronger than the metal anyway. LOL

Ron wrote:
> Nick wrote:
> <<I haven't looked at my Accord but I think there should only be one
> boot on the tie-rod per side.
> I recently replaced them
> on my Integra and used a large standard screwdriver just to get enough
> space to put my cutters in to cut it out. That was just for the inside
> one, on the outside, it should be a spring which you can expand to get
> it off (pliers or spring pullers). You will need a special puller to get
> the tie-rod end out of the hub so you don't damage the tie-rod ball
> joint (tegger has a picture of one on his site). Once you get the
> tie-rod off of the hub, you'll need to mark off where the tie-rod is so
> that when you put it back on, you don't sway too far from where it was
> as this will throw your alignment off.
> After the tie-rod is off, you should be able to remove the boot and
> replace it. You do need a special tool to get the new inside clamp back
> on; rather than doing this, I just used outdoor twist ties that lock in
> place. They are holding up as good as the metal ones that were on there
> before.>>
>
> Thanks Nick.
>
> As I wrote in my first post, the outer tie-rods grease boot (or whatever
> you call it) is also busted so I have to replace the outer tie-rod since
> you can't just replace the rubber.
>
> I have a "fork" that I haven't used in yrs that I can use to remove it
> from the hub. So damaging the rubber part isn't an issue.
>
> I was thinking about using one of those thick, wide, nylon tie wraps
> instead of going back with the metal clamp on the boot. (since you need
> a special tool)
>
> Those things are probably stronger than the metal anyway. LOL

OK, I have my new parts and have the car apart ( only 15 minutes) and
I'm ready to put it back together, 3 questions.

1) The threaded part of the tie-rod, the part that is attached to the
rack and rotates, do I need to pack that joint/knuckle with grease and
if so what kind? Wheel bearing grease perhaps?

2) Do I need to put any grease on ANY parts before installing the new
boot?

3) What is the purpose of the small hose that attaches to the boot?

Ron wrote:
> Nick wrote:
> <<I haven't looked at my Accord but I think there should only be one
> boot on the tie-rod per side.
> I recently replaced them
> on my Integra and used a large standard screwdriver just to get enough
> space to put my cutters in to cut it out. That was just for the inside
> one, on the outside, it should be a spring which you can expand to get
> it off (pliers or spring pullers). You will need a special puller to get
> the tie-rod end out of the hub so you don't damage the tie-rod ball
> joint (tegger has a picture of one on his site). Once you get the
> tie-rod off of the hub, you'll need to mark off where the tie-rod is so
> that when you put it back on, you don't sway too far from where it was
> as this will throw your alignment off.
> After the tie-rod is off, you should be able to remove the boot and
> replace it. You do need a special tool to get the new inside clamp back
> on; rather than doing this, I just used outdoor twist ties that lock in
> place. They are holding up as good as the metal ones that were on there
> before.>>
>
> Thanks Nick.
>
> As I wrote in my first post, the outer tie-rods grease boot (or whatever
> you call it) is also busted so I have to replace the outer tie-rod since
> you can't just replace the rubber.

yes you can replace just the rubber! use a little ingenuity.

>
> I have a "fork" that I haven't used in yrs that I can use to remove it
> from the hub. So damaging the rubber part isn't an issue.

dude, get the proper tool. check out tegger's faq's for pics and rough
prices. forks are destructive and not very safe.

>
> I was thinking about using one of those thick, wide, nylon tie wraps
> instead of going back with the metal clamp on the boot. (since you need
> a special tool)

can't take heat. use two loops of thick copper wire and twist the ends.

>
> Those things are probably stronger than the metal anyway. LOL
>

BigELilE05@msn.com wrote:
> Ron wrote:
>
>>Nick wrote:
>><<I haven't looked at my Accord but I think there should only be one
>>boot on the tie-rod per side.
>> I recently replaced them
>>on my Integra and used a large standard screwdriver just to get enough
>>space to put my cutters in to cut it out. That was just for the inside
>>one, on the outside, it should be a spring which you can expand to get
>>it off (pliers or spring pullers). You will need a special puller to get
>>the tie-rod end out of the hub so you don't damage the tie-rod ball
>>joint (tegger has a picture of one on his site). Once you get the
>>tie-rod off of the hub, you'll need to mark off where the tie-rod is so
>>that when you put it back on, you don't sway too far from where it was
>>as this will throw your alignment off.
>>After the tie-rod is off, you should be able to remove the boot and
>>replace it. You do need a special tool to get the new inside clamp back
>>on; rather than doing this, I just used outdoor twist ties that lock in
>>place. They are holding up as good as the metal ones that were on there
>>before.>>
>>
>>Thanks Nick.
>>
>>As I wrote in my first post, the outer tie-rods grease boot (or whatever
>>you call it) is also busted so I have to replace the outer tie-rod since
>>you can't just replace the rubber.
>>
>>I have a "fork" that I haven't used in yrs that I can use to remove it
>>from the hub. So damaging the rubber part isn't an issue.
>>
>>I was thinking about using one of those thick, wide, nylon tie wraps
>>instead of going back with the metal clamp on the boot. (since you need
>>a special tool)
>>
>>Those things are probably stronger than the metal anyway. LOL
>
>
> OK, I have my new parts and have the car apart ( only 15 minutes) and
> I'm ready to put it back together, 3 questions.
>
> 1) The threaded part of the tie-rod, the part that is attached to the
> rack and rotates, do I need to pack that joint/knuckle with grease and
> if so what kind? Wheel bearing grease perhaps?

think it's a silicone grease. get the helm manual and check. honda
uses silicone greases on the power steering system, and i suspect oil
too, and ordinary greases/oils ruin the seals.

>
> 2) Do I need to put any grease on ANY parts before installing the new
> boot?

you can usually replace just the boot if it's not too dirty in there.
make sure it's clean before reassembly.

>
> 3) What is the purpose of the small hose that attaches to the boot?
>
balance air pressure between sides - as one bellows compresses, the
other expands. a closed system keeps contaminants out and significantly
increases life of the seals.

Jim Beam wrote:

> OK, I have my new parts and have the car apart ( only 15 minutes) and
> I'm ready to put it back together, 3 questions.


> 1) The threaded part of the tie-rod, the part that is attached to the
> rack and rotates, do I need to pack that joint/knuckle with grease and
> if so what kind? Wheel bearing grease perhaps?

think it's a silicone grease. get the helm manual and check. honda
uses silicone greases on the power steering system, and i suspect oil
too, and ordinary greases/oils ruin the seals.


> 2) Do I need to put any grease on ANY parts before installing the new
> boot?

you can usually replace just the boot if it's not too dirty in there.
make sure it's clean before reassembly.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I guess that should have been 1 question. Do I need to pack that
knuckle that connects the outer and inner tie rod with grease?

There is NO dirt in there.

I don't know how long the boot has been split, so I need to know if the
knuckle joint is supposed to be "packed" with grease the way the CV
joints are.


>

BigELilE05@msn.com wrote:
> Jim Beam wrote:
>
>
>>OK, I have my new parts and have the car apart ( only 15 minutes) and
>>I'm ready to put it back together, 3 questions.
>
>
>
>>1) The threaded part of the tie-rod, the part that is attached to the
>>rack and rotates, do I need to pack that joint/knuckle with grease and
>>if so what kind? Wheel bearing grease perhaps?
>
>
> think it's a silicone grease. get the helm manual and check. honda
> uses silicone greases on the power steering system, and i suspect oil
> too, and ordinary greases/oils ruin the seals.
>
>
>
>>2) Do I need to put any grease on ANY parts before installing the new
>>boot?
>
>
> you can usually replace just the boot if it's not too dirty in there.
> make sure it's clean before reassembly.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> I guess that should have been 1 question. Do I need to pack that
> knuckle that connects the outer and inner tie rod with grease?

you mean inside the bellows? no, that stays dry. the joint it protects
is sealed for life and pre-lubed.

>
> There is NO dirt in there.
>
> I don't know how long the boot has been split, so I need to know if the
> knuckle joint is supposed to be "packed" with grease the way the CV
> joints are.

no.

>
>
>
>

Thanks for everyones help. Got the parts and did the whole job in less
than an hour.

The hardest part of the job was getting that little clamp and hose back
on the boot!

They sure as hell don't give you much hose to work with with there.

Agreed on that . That's why I also chose to use the plastic ties instead of
getting the metal ones. I hear that some manufactures are starting to use those
as well. Obviously car manufactures want it to be proprietary since they can
charge $6 on a piece of metal that costs 50 cents to make vs. a plastic tie
which cots 10 cents. Good to hear that you fixed everything.

Nick

On 19 Feb 2006 10:15:38 -0800, BigELilE05@msn.com wrote:

>Thanks for everyones help. Got the parts and did the whole job in less
>than an hour.
>
>The hardest part of the job was getting that little clamp and hose back
>on the boot!
>
>They sure as hell don't give you much hose to work with with there.