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"SoCalMike" <Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote
> Elle wrote: >> Assuming you replaced the upstream ( = primary) oxygen sensor (as the >> code indicated), I would not expect the roughness to necessarily be the >> fault of the (aftermarket) Bosch oxygen sensor. It could be, but I'd do >> more checking, first. > > he said "primary" but he also said "under the catalytic converter", so im > betting they replaced the wrong one. the term primary is also synonymous > with "top" and "front", You're right. So Kala, check what SoCalMike said first. When you all get enough money together, for the best genuine Honda O2 sensor prices I have seen, see https://www.automedicsupply.com/catalog4.php?# By the way, by my parts sources, I think your engine is 1.6L. (I know: That's got to be the least of your worries.) > ie: primary/top/front/upstream sensor is the one screwed into the > manifold. different aftermarket parts books use different terms. |
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I don't see your picture.
www.hondaautomotiveparts.com (after putting in your car's info) has a drawing of the exhaust manifold with the oxygen sensor, if there's still doubt. "kala" <ferdmba@yahoo.com> wrote > we did change the one on the exhaust manifold. i thought i had placed a > picture to one of my postings.. |
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We was going to get a realiable tech meter but the point is already moot. Of
course I would not tinker with the idle if I did not have a good meter, and if i did not have to. I am trying to convince my brother to change the O2 sensor to the OEM type. well at least now people now its the one on the manifold that we changed. so i'll leave it up to him. "TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message news:Xns9762473DDB8C9tegger@207.14.113.17... > "kala" <ferdmba@yahoo.com> wrote in > news:RJAFf.5430$Z3.2835@tornado.socal.rr.com: > >> its the bosh brand i believed. we don't have reliable tech meter >> right now though so i can't tell u. > > > > 1) It's possible the BOSCH sensor you installed has the wrong > characteristics for your car. > > 2) If you don't know your current idle speed, it is absolute foolishness > to > go noodling with the idle speed screw. > > 3) The other posters here are showing considerably better judgement in > this > matter than you. > > -- > TeGGeR® > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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"kala" <ferdmba@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:9TgGf.5668$Z3.2771@tornado.socal.rr.com: > We was going to get a realiable tech meter Why do you keep calling it a "tech meter"? > but the point is already moot. No it's not. You haven't done anything to make it moot yet. The problem remains. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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High Tech Misfit <me@privacy.net> wrote in
news an.2006.02.04.22.55.43.529248@hightech.misfi t:> kala wrote: > >> My brother's civic engine service light came on. extraction of the >> code revealed that the primary O2 sensor on the catalytic converter >> was a problem. we changed it but now the idel is a little rough then >> before. the service light no longer comes on. > > Is the new O2 sensor aftermarket or OEM? Some aftermarket O2 sensors > do not work well with Hondas. > > Also, have the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor ever been > changed? > > As others have said, adjusting an idle screw is not the solution. > > While I agree changing the idle screw won't help, what I've found is that crud builds up under the idle screw between the throttle body and the manifold. Cleaning that out made a huge difference to my idle. Nobody seems to have mentioned it but, the most common causes of rough idle are 1) Dirty throttle body 2) Dirty IAC 3) Carbon buildup. 4) Dirty injectors. 5) Vacuum leaks. I'd clean the throttle body and IAC with INDUCTION CLEANER (not carb cleaner which will destroy the IAC). Then I'd run a decent injector cleaner through it like BG44K. BG44K cleans the injectors and removes built up carbon. I assume you've already looked for and fixed any vacuum leaks. |
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