Honda Car Forum

kala wrote:

> My brother's civic engine service light came on. extraction of the code
> revealed that the primary O2 sensor on the catalytic converter was a
> problem. we changed it but now the idel is a little rough then before. the
> service light no longer comes on.

Is the new O2 sensor aftermarket or OEM? Some aftermarket O2 sensors do
not work well with Hondas.

Also, have the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor ever been changed?

As others have said, adjusting an idle screw is not the solution.

"kala" <ferdmba@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:2C%Ef.7676$Ou1.3620@tornado.socal.rr.com:

> no one has told me where is the idle screw on the 98 civic and how is
> the specified idle speed. can someone tell me.



What's your current idle speed?


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

TeGGeR® wrote:
> "kala" <ferdmba@yahoo.com> wrote in
> news:2C%Ef.7676$Ou1.3620@tornado.socal.rr.com:
>
>> no one has told me where is the idle screw on the 98 civic and how is
>> the specified idle speed. can someone tell me.
>
>
>
> What's your current idle speed?
>
> he probably doesnt know for sure, since its stuttering and stalling at
idle because the PRIMARY O2 sensor is bad

its the bosh brand i believed. we don't have reliable tech meter right now
though so i can't tell u.
"High Tech Misfit" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
newsan.2006.02.04.22.55.43.529248@hightech.misfi t...
> kala wrote:
>
>> My brother's civic engine service light came on. extraction of the code
>> revealed that the primary O2 sensor on the catalytic converter was a
>> problem. we changed it but now the idel is a little rough then before.
>> the
>> service light no longer comes on.
>
> Is the new O2 sensor aftermarket or OEM? Some aftermarket O2 sensors do
> not work well with Hondas.
>
> Also, have the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor ever been changed?
>
> As others have said, adjusting an idle screw is not the solution.
>

well okay if everyone is speculating the 02 sensor then my brother is at
fault on trying to save money by getting an aftermarket version. we changed
the sparkplugs, cleaned the contacts on the distributor cap and rotor and
check the sparkplug wires for resistance. now its up to my brother if he
want to live with the rough idle. there is no return on the aftermarket
bosh 02 sensor unfortunatley.
"SoCalMike" <Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:0o2dnTQ4N_XhXHjeRVn-tA@comcast.com...
> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> "kala" <ferdmba@yahoo.com> wrote in
>> news:2C%Ef.7676$Ou1.3620@tornado.socal.rr.com:
>>> no one has told me where is the idle screw on the 98 civic and how is
>>> the specified idle speed. can someone tell me.
>>
>>
>>
>> What's your current idle speed?
>>
>> he probably doesnt know for sure, since its stuttering and stalling at
> idle because the PRIMARY O2 sensor is bad

Assuming you replaced the upstream ( = primary) oxygen sensor (as the code
indicated), I would not expect the roughness to necessarily be the fault of
the (aftermarket) Bosch oxygen sensor. It could be, but I'd do more
checking, first.

Can you describe a little more exactly what you mean by "rough"?

After the car is warmed up, what is the idle RPM?

When it's cold and in the process of warming up, what is its RPM?

When cruising at steady speed, does the engine sound odd?

How old are the ignition wires (miles and years), anyway? A resistance check
is not enough. Are they OEM wires?

Has the ignition timing been checked recently? Fuel filter and air filter?
What is the coolant level, and has the coolant system been serviced
recently? What brand plugs are you using? The distributor cap is due for a
full replacement every few years. Distributor rotors last longer but those
are also due every so often. Cleaning would not be enough for me.

Try the ignition wire check Tegger describes at
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html , where you let the car
idle and spray with water the ignition wires. Check other items he discusses
at this site.

These are all basic tune-up items that are due within a few years, anyway.
Spend the money on them so you can eliminate them as the problem.

"kala" <ferdmba@yahoo.com> wrote
> well okay if everyone is speculating the 02 sensor then my brother is at
> fault on trying to save money by getting an aftermarket version. we
> changed the sparkplugs, cleaned the contacts on the distributor cap and
> rotor and check the sparkplug wires for resistance. now its up to my
> brother if he want to live with the rough idle. there is no return on the
> aftermarket bosh 02 sensor unfortunatley.

kala wrote:
> well okay if everyone is speculating the 02 sensor then my brother is at
> fault on trying to save money by getting an aftermarket version. we changed
> the sparkplugs, cleaned the contacts on the distributor cap and rotor and
> check the sparkplug wires for resistance. now its up to my brother if he
> want to live with the rough idle. there is no return on the aftermarket
> bosh 02 sensor unfortunatley.

there are 2 sensors. one is down below, in the cat, near the
bottom/front of car near the radiator. this is the one you replaced.
even though its aftermarket, this likely isnt the problem.

you need to replace the oxygen sensor that is screwed into the exhaust
manifold. open the hood, and itll be staring you in the face.

if you feel like going aftermarket, go ahead. if theres a nippondenso
(ND) aftermarket one, that would be best. might have to cut the wires
off the old one, and use the connector. make sure you solder and
shrinktube the connections.

dealer price for an exact fit new one is about $215.

THEN your idle problem should go away. and if you live in a smog state,
you should pass with flying colors next time, if thats any consolation.

if it dies at idle, shakes, runs poorly, it is likely the O2 sensor in
the manifold isnt giving correct readings to the ECU.

the one you replaced below the cat just lets the ECU know if the
catalyst is doing its job. the one up top does most of the work.

Elle wrote:
> Assuming you replaced the upstream ( = primary) oxygen sensor (as the code
> indicated), I would not expect the roughness to necessarily be the fault of
> the (aftermarket) Bosch oxygen sensor. It could be, but I'd do more
> checking, first.

he said "primary" but he also said "under the catalytic converter", so
im betting they replaced the wrong one. the term primary is also
synonymous with "top" and "front",

ie: primary/top/front/upstream sensor is the one screwed into the
manifold. different aftermarket parts books use different terms.

we did change the one on the exhaust manifold. i thought i had placed a
picture to one of my postings..
"SoCalMike" <Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:haednfTN1qsvanvenZ2dnUVZ_tOdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Elle wrote:
>> Assuming you replaced the upstream ( = primary) oxygen sensor (as the
>> code indicated), I would not expect the roughness to necessarily be the
>> fault of the (aftermarket) Bosch oxygen sensor. It could be, but I'd do
>> more checking, first.
>
> he said "primary" but he also said "under the catalytic converter", so im
> betting they replaced the wrong one. the term primary is also synonymous
> with "top" and "front",
>
> ie: primary/top/front/upstream sensor is the one screwed into the
> manifold. different aftermarket parts books use different terms.

"kala" <ferdmba@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:RJAFf.5430$Z3.2835@tornado.socal.rr.com:

> its the bosh brand i believed. we don't have reliable tech meter
> right now though so i can't tell u.



1) It's possible the BOSCH sensor you installed has the wrong
characteristics for your car.

2) If you don't know your current idle speed, it is absolute foolishness to
go noodling with the idle speed screw.

3) The other posters here are showing considerably better judgement in this
matter than you.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/