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cathyinmo wrote:
> actually it seems as though they put some cheap connectors . on the > wires...so I got new ones and put them on..also replaced the positive > cable, 1 fuse , 2 fusible links (same one twice)Are you referring to a > "multimeter"? If so where would I start after I got one? Multimeter, good. So you have a basic understanding of electricity, right? I just noticed your other post, stating the fuseable link and fuse was blown. Was that blown after you experimented with that unknown brown wire? With all fuses and links in tact you still don't have any power (including radio, dome light, etc), correct? If you can identify where that unknown brown wire goes by physically following it, that would be useful. How thick would you say that wire is? It could be that a previous owner added this for a two way radio, amp, alarm system, etc. Maybe post a picture of where it seems to go, to help us identify it. We'lll ignore that wire for now - since we don't really know if it belongs on the negative post, disconnect it and put a bit of tape on it so it doesn't short against anything. Btw, It may not have been a good idea to just short it against terminals so let's hope you didn't blow something important up. First make sure you measure 12V across the battery. If you don't your battery is having issues. Measure the voltage on the postive side of the battery and the frame (find a large unpainted bolt and hook your multimeter negative lead to it - the engine should also be a good point to use) .You should see 12V. { ////// do this if you don't see 12V ////////// Check the negative cable from the battery to the frame. It is held in under a pretty beefy bolt on the frame. Disconnect the battery, loosen and clean the negative cable. } else { //////// do this if you do see !2V /////////// First double check to make sure all fuses and fuseable links are in tact. On most cars, the IGN fuse is often live at all times, regarldless of whether your key is turned. Usually that is a good candidate to use for the following test. If your headlights or radio are able stay on with the key out, use that fuse instead. Measure voltage from the frame to this live fuse. You should see 12V on one side of it so you may need to remove to fuse to get to its contacts. If you don't see 12V on this fuse, check the wire going from the battery to the fuse box - it is a big one. It could be that you missed a larger fuseable link or that the wire only looks like it is hooked up - maybe the insulation is pinched under the battery connector, causing the wire to not be electrically conneced. If you do see 12V on this fuse, power is clearly getting to your fuse box and the basic hookup of the battery is correct. Report back with your findings. } |
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