Honda Car Forum

A friend of mine has a '95 Accord with what sounds like a hydraulic
clutch..."the" fluid is leaking so she fills it as required, however,
she drove it without fluid over the weekend. Topped it up this
morning and the clutch doesn't disengage. She can start the car in
neutral but she can't put it into any gear. When the car is off, she
can put the car in gear and when she tries to start it with the clutch
pedal depressed (i.e., clutch should be disengaged), the car lurches
and stalls.

Bad cable?

TIA!

On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 12:01:41 -0500, Darryl
<umpolung@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote:

>A friend of mine has a '95 Accord with what sounds like a hydraulic
>clutch..."the" fluid is leaking so she fills it as required, however,
>she drove it without fluid over the weekend. Topped it up this
>morning and the clutch doesn't disengage. She can start the car in
>neutral but she can't put it into any gear. When the car is off, she
>can put the car in gear and when she tries to start it with the clutch
>pedal depressed (i.e., clutch should be disengaged), the car lurches
>and stalls.
>
>Bad cable?
>
>TIA!

Ok, forget the bad cable comment: bad master cylinder?

Assuming it is, are they easy to replace?

On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 12:01:41 -0500, Darryl
<umpolung@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote:

>A friend of mine has a '95 Accord with what sounds like a hydraulic
>clutch..."the" fluid is leaking so she fills it as required, however,
>she drove it without fluid over the weekend. Topped it up this
>morning and the clutch doesn't disengage. She can start the car in
>neutral but she can't put it into any gear. When the car is off, she
>can put the car in gear and when she tries to start it with the clutch
>pedal depressed (i.e., clutch should be disengaged), the car lurches
>and stalls.
>
>Bad cable?
>
>TIA!


Bad clutch master cylinder and possibly slave cylinder, but master
generally goes first.

Easy to change? I just did one on a 97 which is the same setup. Not
too hard but helps if you are small, wirey and have little hands. On
the 95 nuts that hold the master cylinder are on the inside. Plus
there is a cotter pin that has to be removed to disconnect the piston
rod from the clutch pedal bracket.

Steps are.

Disconnect the fluid line, remove the cotter pin holding the rod, back
off the two nuts on the inside firewall that hold the cylinder on, go
back in reverse order with a new/rebuilt cylinder, fill and bleed.
the bleeder valve is at the slave cylinder location.

On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 11:52:28 -0600, Frank Boettcher
<fboettcher@comcast.net> wrote:

>On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 12:01:41 -0500, Darryl
><umpolung@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>A friend of mine has a '95 Accord with what sounds like a hydraulic
>>clutch..."the" fluid is leaking so she fills it as required, however,
>>she drove it without fluid over the weekend. Topped it up this
>>morning and the clutch doesn't disengage. She can start the car in
>>neutral but she can't put it into any gear. When the car is off, she
>>can put the car in gear and when she tries to start it with the clutch
>>pedal depressed (i.e., clutch should be disengaged), the car lurches
>>and stalls.
>>
>>Bad cable?
>>
>>TIA!
>
>
>Bad clutch master cylinder and possibly slave cylinder, but master
>generally goes first.
>
>Easy to change? I just did one on a 97 which is the same setup. Not
>too hard but helps if you are small, wirey and have little hands. On
>the 95 nuts that hold the master cylinder are on the inside. Plus
>there is a cotter pin that has to be removed to disconnect the piston
>rod from the clutch pedal bracket.
>
>Steps are.
>
>Disconnect the fluid line, remove the cotter pin holding the rod, back
>off the two nuts on the inside firewall that hold the cylinder on, go
>back in reverse order with a new/rebuilt cylinder, fill and bleed.
>the bleeder valve is at the slave cylinder location.


And if you can't get to it right away, you might be able to bleed it
and limp along for a while, however if it is leaking that badly you
should probably change it asap. Piston seals are probably gone as
well as the rod seal.

Darryl wrote:
> Ok, forget the bad cable comment: bad master cylinder?

or slave. wheres the fluid going???

On Mon, 23 Jan 2006 16:59:59 -0800, SoCalMike
<Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote:

>Darryl wrote:
>> Ok, forget the bad cable comment: bad master cylinder?
>
>or slave. wheres the fluid going???

Thanks for the replies guys. To tell you the truth, I can't see it
the leak, although I haven't had the time to get under the car.
According to my friend, the leak is *very* slow. When I did take the
car for a spin, I noticed that the shifting is choppy so perhaps the
problem is one of a bad slave/master cylinder and tranny fluid that's
never been changed. Maybe a little synthetic 75w90 gear oil?

I'm finally getting to the '95 Accord...turns out that the slave
cylinder is leaking--the master is dry as can be. First off, I
accidentally picked up parts for a '96--IIRC, the body type changed in
'96--did the tranny components as well? i.e., will a slave from a '96
fit the '95 (visually it looks like a fit)?

Secondly, leading up to the slave is a hard plastic line. When I back
off on the line leading to the slave, I'm guessing it'll crack.
Dealer item? Is it heat shrinkable or something?

Finally, is there a clutch pedal freeplay adjustment on the '95s?

TIA!
Darryl.

>>A friend of mine has a '95 Accord with what sounds like a hydraulic
>>clutch..."the" fluid is leaking so she fills it as required, however,
>>she drove it without fluid over the weekend. Topped it up this
>>morning and the clutch doesn't disengage. She can start the car in
>>neutral but she can't put it into any gear. When the car is off, she
>>can put the car in gear and when she tries to start it with the clutch
>>pedal depressed (i.e., clutch should be disengaged), the car lurches
>>and stalls.
>>
>>Bad cable?
>>
>>TIA!
>
>
>Bad clutch master cylinder and possibly slave cylinder, but master
>generally goes first.
>
>Easy to change? I just did one on a 97 which is the same setup. Not
>too hard but helps if you are small, wirey and have little hands. On
>the 95 nuts that hold the master cylinder are on the inside. Plus
>there is a cotter pin that has to be removed to disconnect the piston
>rod from the clutch pedal bracket.
>
>Steps are.
>
>Disconnect the fluid line, remove the cotter pin holding the rod, back
>off the two nuts on the inside firewall that hold the cylinder on, go
>back in reverse order with a new/rebuilt cylinder, fill and bleed.
>the bleeder valve is at the slave cylinder location.

Pipe to clutch slave cylinder is fitted with compression fittings
which were rusty but moved freely with a little WD40. It is a ~$10
dealer part but the two dealers I called don't stock it.

Replaced the leaking slave, bled with one of those do-it-yourself
brake bleeding kits, flushed the whole systems a couple times over,
and voila! Clutch feels mint. Just waiting for the master cylinder
to go.

How do I ajdust the clutch pedal freeplay?

Darryl.

>I'm finally getting to the '95 Accord...turns out that the slave
>cylinder is leaking--the master is dry as can be. First off, I
>accidentally picked up parts for a '96--IIRC, the body type changed in
>'96--did the tranny components as well? i.e., will a slave from a '96
>fit the '95 (visually it looks like a fit)?
>
>Secondly, leading up to the slave is a hard plastic line. When I back
>off on the line leading to the slave, I'm guessing it'll crack.
>Dealer item? Is it heat shrinkable or something?
>
>Finally, is there a clutch pedal freeplay adjustment on the '95s?
>
>TIA!
>Darryl.
>
>>>A friend of mine has a '95 Accord with what sounds like a hydraulic
>>>clutch..."the" fluid is leaking so she fills it as required, however,
>>>she drove it without fluid over the weekend. Topped it up this
>>>morning and the clutch doesn't disengage. She can start the car in
>>>neutral but she can't put it into any gear. When the car is off, she
>>>can put the car in gear and when she tries to start it with the clutch
>>>pedal depressed (i.e., clutch should be disengaged), the car lurches
>>>and stalls.
>>>
>>>Bad cable?
>>>
>>>TIA!
>>
>>
>>Bad clutch master cylinder and possibly slave cylinder, but master
>>generally goes first.
>>
>>Easy to change? I just did one on a 97 which is the same setup. Not
>>too hard but helps if you are small, wirey and have little hands. On
>>the 95 nuts that hold the master cylinder are on the inside. Plus
>>there is a cotter pin that has to be removed to disconnect the piston
>>rod from the clutch pedal bracket.
>>
>>Steps are.
>>
>>Disconnect the fluid line, remove the cotter pin holding the rod, back
>>off the two nuts on the inside firewall that hold the cylinder on, go
>>back in reverse order with a new/rebuilt cylinder, fill and bleed.
>>the bleeder valve is at the slave cylinder location.