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I just rebuilt the engine on my 1993 honda accord. Everything was fine,
compression timing, ect. I had a bad Idle Air Control Valve, so my car was starting up, but dying as soon as the IAC kicked in... So I let my car sit for a week, got the part, changed it. Did not touch anything else, now all of a sudden my car does not start up. There is no spark. I'm getting an engine code now too 5 flashes = MAP sensor, but I'm not sure that would make my car not start/spark. 1. I replaced the distributer 2. replaced the dist cap. 3. replaced spark plugs 4. repalced wires. I put the old IAC valve back in, because it was starting (although it shouldn't effect a cold engine start). My main issue is that my flippin car won't start out of the blue after we had it running strong a week ago. I'm at a loss, I ripped this thing apart, but cannot figure out why it won't start. Could a bad MAP sensor make this thing not fire up? -Thanks much. |
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Hope you get an answer. I appreciate your post because I just put a
replacement engine in my daughter's '93 Accord and I did not know it has a place to get readouts. I believe the "Check Engine" light is because the timing is way too advanced at present. -- KWW <nizack05@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1136267173.951462.175460@g43g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... >I just rebuilt the engine on my 1993 honda accord. Everything was fine, > compression timing, ect. I had a bad Idle Air Control Valve, so my car > was starting up, but dying as soon as the IAC kicked in... So I let my > car sit for a week, got the part, changed it. Did not touch anything > else, now all of a sudden my car does not start up. There is no spark. > I'm getting an engine code now too 5 flashes = MAP sensor, but I'm not > sure that would make my car not start/spark. > 1. I replaced the distributer > 2. replaced the dist cap. > 3. replaced spark plugs > 4. repalced wires. > I put the old IAC valve back in, because it was starting (although it > shouldn't effect a cold engine start). > My main issue is that my flippin car won't start out of the blue after > we had it running strong a week ago. I'm at a loss, I ripped this thing > apart, but cannot figure out why it won't start. Could a bad MAP sensor > make this thing not fire up? > > -Thanks much. > |
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nizack05@gmail.com wrote:
> I just rebuilt the engine on my 1993 honda accord. Everything was fine, > compression timing, ect. I had a bad Idle Air Control Valve, so my car > was starting up, but dying as soon as the IAC kicked in... So I let my > car sit for a week, got the part, changed it. Did not touch anything > else, now all of a sudden my car does not start up. There is no spark. > I'm getting an engine code now too 5 flashes = MAP sensor, but I'm not > sure that would make my car not start/spark. > 1. I replaced the distributer > 2. replaced the dist cap. > 3. replaced spark plugs > 4. repalced wires. > I put the old IAC valve back in, because it was starting (although it > shouldn't effect a cold engine start). > My main issue is that my flippin car won't start out of the blue after > we had it running strong a week ago. I'm at a loss, I ripped this thing > apart, but cannot figure out why it won't start. Could a bad MAP sensor > make this thing not fire up? > > -Thanks much. > yes, the map sensor is essential if the ecu is to calculate how much fuel to inject. |
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Yes if your engine light goes on, there's a little plug by the pasenger
side door under the glove box on the door side. If you simply take a copper wire and jump it, by putting both exposed ends in the plug as to connect it to itself, it will give you a read out of the codes. The repair manual has a translation for the codes as well. |
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I think we figured out the problem. My car wasn't sparking, but it
sparked, but it wasn't where it was supposed to. The ground from the battery had about 6" of exposed wire that was all corroded, so I think I may have fried my ECU, because before when it was starting, it was fine. The timing wasn't a problem either, because everything was lined up and when we did start it up a week earlier it was running strong. Plus now the ecu won't reset and my positive cable looks like it had a mini explosion on it. So I replace the ground wire and am waiting to find a good deal on an ECU. Until then I just bought another car and the engine light came on 3 days after having it... I think my luck has run dry. |
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