Honda Car Forum

I went last week to a Honda dealer to trade in my car for a new Accord
Value Pack (VP, base model). I was surprised by all their tactics to
get the most out of my money. I don't blame the salesperson because he
was nice and helpful, but I think the sales manager went a little too
far in his methods. I also have to say that after the deal was done,
they were all nice guys and very helpful with all the process. I'm
going to enumerate the things I consider bad tactics because they were
just too many:

1) When I told them I wanted the Value Pack, the manager said that it
had no power windows. That I better choose the LX or EX. That's not
true.

2) When I came back next day he said that VP had no Cruise Control. I
checked the car I wanted to buy and I noticed the cruise control was
there.

3) When we were negotiating the price he showed me the invoice price, I
said the invoice price I saw at edmunds.com was lower. When he noticed
I was not accepting that price he showed me that there was about $200
marketing charge and accepted to remove it. Nothing bad about this part
because I think dealers usually try to add these hidden charges without
telling customers.

4) After negotiating the price for my trade in and the price of the
Accord VP, he came with a blank page (where all the totals are
calculated) for me to sign. I said I wanted to see the final numbers
before I sign the page. I said I cannot sign a blank sheet for them
later to add the totals. They accepted.

5) Then he came with the same sheet with a total amount higher than
what we negotiated. I told them that we had to subtract the amount I
get from my trade in. At this time the manager pretended to be
exasperated with me, like if I was asking for too much. He said that he
would do it later and refused to write it in the sheet. So I took the
pen and had to do the subtraction in front of him and underlined the
final amount. He accepted that amount.

6) At about 9:00 PM (they were already closed but there were still a
few customers finalizing their deals), I was tired but happy when the
manager brought the paper work describing my monthly payments. Let me
say that I have very good credit (over 700), and the manager told me he
was going to run my information with about 15 banks and get me the best
deal. Not true, he got me financing with Honda. How can he run my
information with 15 banks and come with a loan from honda financeing?
Maybe I'm missing something here. Anyway he got me 6.6% interest which
I consider too high but I still accepted. Maybe I should have got the
loan with my credit union.

7) He showed my monthly payments at about $35 over what I estimated,
and handed me a pen to sign. I asked me how can it be so high? Then he
said I was getting the 7 years/100K miles warranty. When I insisted in
how much it costed, he said $1600. He said if I don't take the warranty
I'm taking a big risk if the car breaks. I asked him how can he tell me
these are the best cars in the market and now he's telling me that I'm
taking a big risk because they can break. Finnally he accepted to
remove the warranty and I got the payment amount I wanted.

I remember at a Chevrolet dealer in 1998 I had a very good experience
buying my chevy Malibu, I still remember the name of the Chevy sales
person (Mike), I can't believe at Honda these guys gave me such a hard
time.

After the negotiation, the manager and sales person were very nice and
helpful.

This was a great history for the archives. Good for you for
taking hardly any junk off these losers. I /do/ begrudge
them saying one thing then doing another /several/ times in
the process you describe. It's some kind of harassment,
albeit I suppose mostly legal. Point being, it's aggravating
dealing with salespeople like this. Surely there are better.

pichula wrote:

> I remember at a Chevrolet dealer in 1998 I had a very good experience
> buying my chevy Malibu, I still remember the name of the Chevy sales
> person (Mike), I can't believe at Honda these guys gave me such a hard
> time.
>
> After the negotiation, the manager and sales person were very nice and
> helpful.

Just remember that every car manufacturer has good and bad dealers. You
were unfortunate to have landed at a bad Honda dealer.

pichula wrote:
>
> I went last week to a Honda dealer to trade in my car for a new Accord
> Value Pack (VP, base model). I was surprised by all their tactics to
> get the most out of my money. I don't blame the salesperson because he
> was nice and helpful, but I think the sales manager went a little too
> far in his methods. I also have to say that after the deal was done,
> they were all nice guys and very helpful with all the process. I'm
> going to enumerate the things I consider bad tactics because they were
> just too many:
>
> 1) When I told them I wanted the Value Pack, the manager said that it
> had no power windows. That I better choose the LX or EX. That's not
> true.
>
> 2) When I came back next day he said that VP had no Cruise Control. I
> checked the car I wanted to buy and I noticed the cruise control was
> there.
>
> 3) When we were negotiating the price he showed me the invoice price, I
> said the invoice price I saw at edmunds.com was lower. When he noticed
> I was not accepting that price he showed me that there was about $200
> marketing charge and accepted to remove it. Nothing bad about this part
> because I think dealers usually try to add these hidden charges without
> telling customers.
>
> 4) After negotiating the price for my trade in and the price of the
> Accord VP, he came with a blank page (where all the totals are
> calculated) for me to sign. I said I wanted to see the final numbers
> before I sign the page. I said I cannot sign a blank sheet for them
> later to add the totals. They accepted.
>
> 5) Then he came with the same sheet with a total amount higher than
> what we negotiated. I told them that we had to subtract the amount I
> get from my trade in. At this time the manager pretended to be
> exasperated with me, like if I was asking for too much. He said that he
> would do it later and refused to write it in the sheet. So I took the
> pen and had to do the subtraction in front of him and underlined the
> final amount. He accepted that amount.
>
> 6) At about 9:00 PM (they were already closed but there were still a
> few customers finalizing their deals), I was tired but happy when the
> manager brought the paper work describing my monthly payments. Let me
> say that I have very good credit (over 700), and the manager told me he
> was going to run my information with about 15 banks and get me the best
> deal. Not true, he got me financing with Honda. How can he run my
> information with 15 banks and come with a loan from honda financeing?
> Maybe I'm missing something here. Anyway he got me 6.6% interest which
> I consider too high but I still accepted. Maybe I should have got the
> loan with my credit union.
>
> 7) He showed my monthly payments at about $35 over what I estimated,
> and handed me a pen to sign. I asked me how can it be so high? Then he
> said I was getting the 7 years/100K miles warranty. When I insisted in
> how much it costed, he said $1600. He said if I don't take the warranty
> I'm taking a big risk if the car breaks. I asked him how can he tell me
> these are the best cars in the market and now he's telling me that I'm
> taking a big risk because they can break. Finnally he accepted to
> remove the warranty and I got the payment amount I wanted.
>
> I remember at a Chevrolet dealer in 1998 I had a very good experience
> buying my chevy Malibu, I still remember the name of the Chevy sales
> person (Mike), I can't believe at Honda these guys gave me such a hard
> time.
>
> After the negotiation, the manager and sales person were very nice and
> helpful.

-------------------------------

Generally, this old joke is still true:

QUESTION: How can you tell if a car salesman is lying to you???

ANSWER: His lips are moving.

'Curly'

In article <1133027877.542821.99620@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups. com>,
"pichula" <kansas4451@yahoo.com> wrote:

> 6) At about 9:00 PM (they were already closed but there were still a
> few customers finalizing their deals), I was tired but happy when the
> manager brought the paper work describing my monthly payments. Let me
> say that I have very good credit (over 700), and the manager told me he
> was going to run my information with about 15 banks and get me the best
> deal. Not true, he got me financing with Honda. How can he run my
> information with 15 banks and come with a loan from honda financeing?
> Maybe I'm missing something here. Anyway he got me 6.6% interest which
> I consider too high but I still accepted. Maybe I should have got the
> loan with my credit union.

You should never, EVER buy the money from the same guy who's also
selling you the car.

Then you compounded your error by adding your trade to the deal. You
should never, EVER put the trade and the new car sale into one deal.

You have three transactions: new car sale, old car sale, and money
sale. Letting one guy quarterback all three of them is crazy.

> You have three transactions: new car sale, old car sale, and money
> sale. Letting one guy quarterback all three of them is crazy.
>
Not always true. For example if he really needs the sale he may be
prepared to reduce the sales price a little IF he gets the finance as well.

As to the trade-in, you may get a few more dollars with a private sale,
but sell to the dealer and no haggling etc

"Bozo" wrote

>> You have three transactions: new car sale, old car sale, and money sale.
>> Letting one guy quarterback all three of them is crazy.
>>
> Not always true. For example if he really needs the sale he may be
> prepared to reduce the sales price a little IF he gets the finance as
> well.
>
> As to the trade-in, you may get a few more dollars with a private sale,
> but sell to the dealer and no haggling etc

I think what Elmo is referring to is the principle of first negotiating the
new car price (without telling the salesperson you have a trade-in), THEN
negotiate the price of the trade-in.

>Then he said I was getting the 7 years/100K miles warranty. When I insisted
>in
> how much it costed, he said $1600. He said if I don't take the warranty

just FYI, if you ARE interested in that warranty, you can get it for about
HALF that price on either www.hondacarewarranty.com or
www.curryhondacare.com . in my accord I'm getting the 8 year 120k warranty
and its under 1,000 (I believe like 970 or something) this can be bought
anytime up to 6,000 miles on the car. (please note I"m not in any way
affiliated with honda or honda care or either of these 2 sites, just trying
to save someone some money) enjoy your car!

In article <pk2if.3281$xP2.514@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net>,
Bozo <spam@spamme.com> wrote:

> > You have three transactions: new car sale, old car sale, and money
> > sale. Letting one guy quarterback all three of them is crazy.
> >
> Not always true. For example if he really needs the sale he may be
> prepared to reduce the sales price a little IF he gets the finance as well.

The point is, the car salesman is in charge of too many things. His job
is to find the buyer's hot button (low finance rate, good trade value,
whatever) and play to that while jacking the other items around--all
toward the end of making the sucker pay the same amount in the end.

The car salesman does this several times a day. The buyer does it once
every few years. Who do you think wins?

The only way to prevent this from happening is to separate the deals, so
that no one person has any more affect than any other on the entire
deal--no matter what the buyer's hot button.

In article <11oheg8geh2af28@corp.supernews.com>,
"Howard Lester" <heylester@dakotacom.net> wrote:

> >> You have three transactions: new car sale, old car sale, and money sale.
> >> Letting one guy quarterback all three of them is crazy.
> >>
> > Not always true. For example if he really needs the sale he may be
> > prepared to reduce the sales price a little IF he gets the finance as
> > well.
> >
> > As to the trade-in, you may get a few more dollars with a private sale,
> > but sell to the dealer and no haggling etc
>
> I think what Elmo is referring to is the principle of first negotiating the
> new car price (without telling the salesperson you have a trade-in), THEN
> negotiate the price of the trade-in.

That's perfectly legitimate. Get the numbers in stone one at a time,
independent of one another.