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I will eventually need to replace the converter in my 2000 Accord with
the 23A4 engine, which is a ULEV model. The car has 145,000 miles on it, and the media is coming apart inside and rattling. Searching the online parts sources, converters for the standard motor are readily available and reasonably priced, unlike the factory model that comes with a $1500 sticker that will put me in a serious financial hole. All of the aftermarket converters I saw advertised had some sort of disclaimer such as not available in California, not for the SULEV, won't fit California Emissions, etc. I just want it to work, and as long as it will do the job it is supposed to and pass my MD emissions test next year, fits my exhaust system, and won't adversely affect the way it runs, I will be happy. Will the aftermarket stuff work, or am I screwed? |
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My memory is horrid but it seems to me there is an extended warranty
period for emissions systems in certain honda vehicles. If a standard cat will work - consider going to a junk yard - I like to take the part I am replacing with me so that when the knuckle dragger comes out with "your" part, you can do a face to face comparison. If you do it yourself - only way to get the bolts off of a cat is to use an angle grinder and grind them off - use eye protection - full face mask. In my state, WI - the state polution testers just hook into the computer on your car and take that reading. If you stop a couple of blocks from the testing station and take out your fuse that powers the "computer", it will clean out any trouble codes until you go over about 30 MPH again. They used to accelerate vehicles on the test stands to 45 mph or so on the odometer - however they managed to get some big lawsuits when they screwed up people's cars. Now they only read the computer output. Mine always passes but if you are pressed for bucks - that might be a temporary solution to get your vehicle to pass the emission test - oh they do use a mirror and look to see if you do have a cat and a muffler and that your exhaust appears to be in one piece. good luck - sorry that had to happen to you but that extra expense for the ULEV cat is a reason not to buy one of those vehicles. I am a poor boy. |
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"butch burton" <spacetrax@wi.rr.com> wrote in message news:1132094024.937316.158600@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... > My memory is horrid but it seems to me there is an extended warranty > period for emissions systems in certain honda vehicles. > 8yr/80k for emissions parts. I think this is Federal mandate, not just Honda. Just had mine replaced under warranty at 79xxx. |
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Bruce_Nolte_N3LSY& wrote:
> I will eventually need to replace the converter in my 2000 Accord with > the 23A4 engine, which is a ULEV model. The car has 145,000 miles on it, > and the media is coming apart inside and rattling. Searching the online > parts sources, converters for the standard motor are readily available > and reasonably priced, unlike the factory model that comes with a $1500 > sticker that will put me in a serious financial hole. > > All of the aftermarket converters I saw advertised had some sort of > disclaimer such as not available in California, not for the SULEV, won't > fit California Emissions, etc. I just want it to work, and as long as it > will do the job it is supposed to and pass my MD emissions test next > year, fits my exhaust system, and won't adversely affect the way it > runs, I will be happy. > > Will the aftermarket stuff work, or am I screwed? i dont see why a standard 3-way catalyst wouldnt work. i used one in a 1975 MG, where the cat is located right under (and connected to) the exhaust manifold. the old cat was either gutted or fell apart through the years. the new one passed the test with flying colors. required unbolting the whole A-pipe section of the MG exhaust, cutting the flange off, welding it on the cat, then bolting the pipe back on the cat. if the cat ever goes in my 98 civic CX (california emissions) i plan on doing the same thing. |
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butch burton wrote:
> My memory is horrid but it seems to me there is an extended warranty > period for emissions systems in certain honda vehicles. > > If a standard cat will work - consider going to a junk yard - I like to > take the part I am replacing with me so that when the knuckle dragger > comes out with "your" part, you can do a face to face comparison. dunno bout other places, but its illegal to sell a used cat converter in california. pretty pointless, too... a new aftermarket one is about $100. > > If you do it yourself - only way to get the bolts off of a cat is to > use an angle grinder and grind them off - use eye protection - full > face mask. > > In my state, WI - the state polution testers just hook into the > computer on your car and take that reading. If you stop a couple of > blocks from the testing station and take out your fuse that powers the > "computer", it will clean out any trouble codes until you go over about > 30 MPH again. They used to accelerate vehicles on the test stands to may or may not. some codes will pop up again immediately once the car is started. > 45 mph or so on the odometer - however they managed to get some big > lawsuits when they screwed up people's cars. Now they only read the im not sure about the screwing up of peoples cars, but some places DO allow a computer scan. probably due to garages not wanting to buy dynamometers. > computer output. Mine always passes but if you are pressed for bucks - > that might be a temporary solution to get your vehicle to pass the > emission test - oh they do use a mirror and look to see if you do have > a cat and a muffler and that your exhaust appears to be in one piece. heh... my MG had a cat, too. it was hollow. > > good luck - sorry that had to happen to you but that extra expense for > the ULEV cat is a reason not to buy one of those vehicles. I am a poor > boy. > |
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